| Author | Message | ||
     Jugallo94 |
havent shimmed the needle. i believe i am running a 45/180 though i am not sure anymore. i switched the jets exhaust and intake back in 04. i just checked the spark plug and it is a nice tan color but the wire was a little loose. and by loose i mean i flicked it off the plug with a tap of my finger. it does look like its time to change the plug though, but i doubt that is the issue. | ||
| Ezblast |
That could well be the issue - make sure the plug wire and plug are good. May be a loose plug wire is loosing your spark. EZ | ||
| Jugallo94 |
i crimped down the connector on tghe plug tighter and it fired a lot better. still had the same issue of sputtering. i pulled the muffler off and road with just the header pipe and it was good. so i borrowed a bore scope and looked down the muffler. it went from 1 3/4 to an opening of about 3/4 then into a slit about a 1/4 wide and 3/4 long then opened back up in the reverse order. so you were right muffler chocking the engine. i drilled the slit out to 3/4 and that helped a lot. i still think i need to go a little bit bigger but i have to find a drill bit first. if this works out this winter i am pulling it off and painting it flat black. pics will follow soon | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
WoW! They do sell cheap straight through mufflers! Nice call EZ! Who would have thought they'd make a muffler that restrictive! Just hammer a long extension or rebar through it! | ||
| Knc52 |
Hey guys, This weekend I finished installing my V&H SS2R exhaust and I wanted to point out a few things for those who may install a V&H exhaust in the future. I also have a question for EZ or anyone else regarding the change in throttle/idle. Mods to the bike are: carb jetted 45/170, EZs mild airbox mod, Denso Iridium Racing plug, and now V&H exhaust. First off, a couple weeks ago I pulled my exhaust to do the stock exhaust mod by drilling the hole on the right side similar to the original opening on the left. After drilling the hole, I went to reinstall the stock exhaust and I did 2 things wrong. The first was I didn't change the crush gasket in the exhaust port and the second was not torquing the header flange bolts to spec. Of course I didn't realize my errors until I was out riding the next day and my exhaust header broke right below where the flange bolts into the port. I believe the reason it broke was because of those 2 mistakes. After it broke, I ordered the V&H and pulled the stock exhaust in the meantime. I had to buy a new gasket and a new flange because the existing flange was warped due to the heat coming directly out of the port when it broke. The V&H came in Friday and I went to install it over the weekend. The first thing I noticed was that the gasket was extremely hard to put in the port. The only way I got it to go in was by actually bendind/prying and a little grease. The rest of the exhaust went on fairly easy, and I made sure to torque the flange down slowly and alternating bolts. The gasket I used was the "crush" gasket and the chrome flange. I used the stock hardware for the rear bracket instead of the V&H and everything went smoothly. I had rejetted the carb to 45/170 before getting the V&H, and I'm waiting on my local HD to get the 48 and 175 jets in so I can install those to allow for the exhaust change. I also plan on picking up 2 #4 washers to shim the needle. I have ridden it for a couple days with the 45/170 and realized that it lags a little bit in lower gears when I go to give more throttle. My question for EZ or anyone else who has experience with exhausts is why I would be getting a lag in the "pickup" after changing exhausts. I'm sure it will run much better when i rejet the carb, and may very well take care of this lag issue. I just wondered if something like that was common or if there is something else going on. Thanks! knc52 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Too lean. Shimming the needle will probably fix that. Probably don't need the 48 slow jet. | ||
| Knc52 |
I was thinking it was something to do with the carb settings, but I wanted another opinion. I have plans to get a Velocity Stack from PJ Motorsports (with a screen filter) to replace the stock airbox setup. When I make that change, should I rejet to 48/175? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If its flowing well, then yes*. 175 with the new exhaust*. Just be sure you get the correct screen. The wrong screen can actually cut airflow, because you will, in effect, make the carb intake smaller by installing a screen the same size as the intake. *In reality you should tune the carb, not just go with recommended settings, But I know most people need a place to start. If you spend the time on the carb, great gains can be had. But it takes patience (a lot of it). Pay attention to how it runs, not just once, but on a regular basis. If you have the luxury of riding your Blast often enough, you will instinctively know whats wrong when something happens. Keep us posted and dont chnage everything at once. In steps. Otherwise you'll never know where your problem is if you get one. You also wont know what difference each mod made-good or bad. Okay, I think thats way more info than you wanted, but there you go! | ||
| Knc52 |
That's actually pretty good advice, I hadn't thought of it like that. I didn't plan on doing all the mods at once (close together,) the timing just worked out that way. Of the mods I have done, the exhaust was the biggest change and I can feel noticible differences in how the bike runs. First mod was EZs airbox mod (mild version) and I didn't really notice any change. My next mod was the Denso plug, and I did notice the slight increase in power (it seemed like it hopped up.) I have only ridden for a few days with the exhaust so the hardest thing for me is adjusting to hearing the sound to know how the engine is running. I agree with the needle adjustment, I picked up some #4 brass washers today and plan on shimming needle tomorrow. Any advice or things I should watch out for there? From what I gathered, removing and reassembling the diaphragm is the most difficult part... knc52 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Not hard. Dont pull the carb off the bike to do it. Dont take anymore of the carb apart than necessary*. Be careful, dont rush and its not difficult. Jetting is much more difficult. *Resist the urge to "give the carb a good cleaning". It doesnt need it.!  | ||
| Jlkilpatrick |
I have a bolt broke off that attached the exhaust to the motor and the threads on the other hole are gone what should I do? Take it to a machine shop and have em make new holes or by a new jug/head? | ||
| Ezblast |
helicoil or incert, both would work - especially at those torque load levels as proffered by the manual. The other I would slowly reverse drill out. When it catches, stop and back out by hand. Take your time and work it. EZ | ||
| Crackhead |
If you are going to try the fix at home buy/ borrow the JIMS exhaust stud tool. http://www.amazon.com/Jims-Exhaust-Drill-Plate-170 5/dp/B000GUWOB2 | ||
| Knc52 |
Gearhead/EZ, So last night I installed the 175 main jet and it seems to have helped the lag a little (not completely.) I plan on adding the shims to the needle tonight. Question: with my mods listed above, should I adjust the Idle Mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns out or 2 2/3? I haven't adjusted the screw before but it doesn't seem difficult. I plan on adjusting screw after shimming needle tonight. Should I adjust screw when the bike is running? Or should I make adjustments, start bike to see how it runs, and then readjust if necessary? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Adjust while running (or not) after the shims. There's a very good chance you'll notice the difference with the shims and a very slim chance you'll notice the difference adjusting the idle mixture. Minor carb tuning takes practice. Some will get it right away (few), the rest it takes experience. Many just go the 2 1/2 turns and don't worry about it (as long as their bike runs)! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur with EZ and Crackhead! But, never, ever, use an ez-out to remove bolts unless you have prior successful experience! Otherwise you'll join the countless others who've thrown away good parts because they rendered them unusable with an ez-out. Sounds good-often turns out bad. There are much better ways to solve your problem. You have been warned!and for the love of God, don't take your carb apart "to give it a good cleaning"! | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
PS concerning all carb mods/adjustments: adjust as necessary. What we give here are guidelines to get you close, sometimes close enough! | ||
| Crackhead |
I would ask local HD shops how much they charge for the repairs. They should have the proper tools to almost guarantee a better then original repair. | ||
| Knc52 |
Ok, so I wanted to update you on the work I did this evening. I put 2 #4 washers on the needle and it fixed the hesitation/bogging down issue I was having when I gave it more throttle on the low end. I can't believe 2 shims on the needle would make this much of a difference! Thanks to all for the advice on these carb mods... So for those who havent shimmed needle yet, it's not very difficult. I found out I was right assuming that the most difficult part was putting the diaphragm back in the groove. It took my a few minutes and was frustrating at first, but I took my time and finally got it in. I found that holding one side in and gradually fitting the rest in was the best way to handle this. Everything else went very smoothly. After shimming needle, I went to adjust idle mixture screw for the first time. I was shocked to find out the screw was turned out much more than 3 full turns out. I tightened it to light bottom and turned out 2 2/3 as recommended, but the bike didn't idle well. I tried different settings and still couldn't find the right spot. Then I realized the bike never really got properly warmed up (I only rode around for a couple minutes after shimming needle to make sure everything was ok) so I warmed it up more. After warming up, I readjusted screw to 2 1/4 turns out, which seemed like the sweet spot. I found that a little surprising with all the research I have done here on Badweb. Most have suggested 2 2/3 for the mods I have done (V&H exhaust, EZ airbox mild mod, Denso Iridium Racing plug, jetted 45/175, and needle shimmed with 2 #4 washers) but I guess all bikes and situations are different. Thoughts? knc52 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Recommendations are only guidelines. Someplace to start. A brand new bike is going to need something a little different than one with 30,000 miles, for example. 2 1/4 turns means you have the correct slow jet. | ||
| Knc52 |
Ok, so I just went on the first real ride since shimming needle and adjusting idle screw. The bike ran great, and all hesitation was gone when I gave it throttle. I did run into a problem when I got on the interstate. When I hit 65-70 mph, the bike seemed to lurch, or jerk (hard to explain this, it has never happened before.) bike fan fine at any other speeds below that, but seemed to lurch when I tried to cruise at 65-70. I have no idea what would cause this, but I assume it's related to the carb mods I did. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm totally lost on this one... knc52 | ||
| Ezblast |
How tight is your primary? Carb should be fine. EZ | ||
| Knc52 |
EZ, I haven't ever adjusted the primary since owning it. Bike is a 2000 with almost 6k miles. I assumed that the problem was due to the changes I made to carb, since I never had this problem before rejetting primary jet and shimming needle. I also looked over the intake boot, and it seems ok. I really don't have a clue what could cause this. If there was a problem with the carb, you'd think it would happen all the time (throuout all speeds, not just between 65-70.) I will adjust primary by ear and let u know how it goes. Knc52 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You're going to need to adjust the primary anyway. If it still has the spacer you're going to be turning in the adjuster bolt a lot! It would be correct in assuming its related to something you just did. The carb has different circuits that overlap for different rpms. So a problem can just appear in a set running range. You did use small enough washers? Washers that are too big will cause problems as they will prevent the needle from dropping all the way down | ||
| Knc52 |
Gearhead, Bike has spacer removed, but I had noticed the last couple times out the crankcase was making a slight "clinking" noise. From my research, it seems that means the primary needs adjusted. Needed to do that anyway it seems... EZ, I know you know much more about the blast than I do (probably bikes in general as well) but I just get the feeling it's something with the carb. Your advice on primary was good, but I just can't see that being the issue here. But we will find out soon... I'm going to adjust chain and then remove shims I installed to see if that makes any difference. Gearhead - I measured the washer I used (bought pack of 12 at Lowes) and from side to side the OD was between 1/4" to 5/16". The package said #4s, meaning they are the smaller size. knc52 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Pull the shims first. See what happens. Sorry detailed post just got dumped by bad wifi connection. No time now. | ||
| Knc52 |
EZ/Gearhead- Update on work I did today: Pulled shims from needle and put everything back together. I could instantly tell the low end pickup was worse without shims, but bike ran well for the few minute test ride. When I was pulling in the driveway, I revved engine to see how it responded, and it backfired through the carb. I revved it up again, and another carb backfire. I shut it down quickly because I didn't know how serious the issue was. I have no idea what could have caused this. From my research here on forum, I found carb backfires are usually a sign of a bad intake boot. I loosened the intake boot before taking carb top off, and tightened it back when I finished taking shims off. I have no idea how old this boot is (previous owner only had bike for 4 months before selling it to me, and didn't do anything at all to the bike) and if it's ever been replaced. I do know it's not one of Dans super boots, it's the OEM style. Without pulling it off the bike, I couldn't see any cracks or holes/tears in boot or manifold tube. Any suggestions or ideas what the backfire issue could be? I'm thinking my next step is to remove the boot to get a closer look at it to make sure no tears/cracks are present. If the boot checks out to be fine, where do I go from here? knc52 | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Very likely the boot. Cracked, improperly tightened or installed. So you can pass this on: The carb does not need and shouldnt be taken off to shim the needle. Pull the tank cover for carb access.* You dont have to take the carb off (or loosen the boot) to do any jetting, shims or much of anything thats needed in the normal mod range of carbs. *Most people wont mess up pulling the tank cover and if they do (we've heard everything!), it wouldnt affect the running. Very often people mess the boot up though.  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
FWIW: There is nothing wrong with an OEM boot. Period. Its a very simple part. Its either cracked or installed improperly. People have screwed up a Dan boot installation too (which is merely a modified stock boot with a better clamp). | ||
| Ezblast |
Yeah, but at that suspect age I'd replace it anyway, and put the shims back - lol - Das Boot! EZ |
