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Buell Forum » Big, Bad & Dirty (Buell XB12X Ulysses Adventure Board) » BB&D Archives » Archive through September 09, 2012 » Drive Belt Installation « Previous Next »

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Yan
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 03:05 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The drive belt tore this morning on my 2008 XB12X with 15k miles on it (it's a good thing I have a spare : ) ). Looking in the Service Manual and it looks like there is no need to remove the rear wheel - am I reading it right? Thanks!

(Message edited by Yan on August 20, 2012)
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Right. You loosen the rear axle, which reduces tension on the belt. You remove the frame 'bridge' on the right side.

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=52 0934
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Hughlysses
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Correct. Remove the belt guards and the foot peg bracket from the right side of the bike. Tie it up out of the way while you're working.

Loosen the axle pinch bolts, and back the axle out 20 (?- whatever the book says) turns. That will get the right side wheel bearing off of the larger diameter portion of the axle, past the taper, and onto the smaller diameter portion of the axle. That'll let the wheel move forward just enough to get a belt over the sprocket. Remove the two bolts and the section out of the swingarm, and you're ready to install your new belt. You don't have to remove the idler pulley, which the shop manual calls for.
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Skifastbadly
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:28 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

In fact I strongly urge you to NOT remove the idler pulley. Getting it back on is a bi-otch.
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Electraglider_1997
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 04:31 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Once the drive belt is broken in (stretched) it is easy to re-install.
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Buellerxt
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 06:40 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Yan,
Do you know if the belt that broke was the 'D', 'E', or 'F' belt? It is the last letter on the belt part no. and is on the belt. Just curious. Any idea what caused it? Thanks.
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Yan
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 10:10 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks everyone!

No idea what caused it, but the belt was a 'D'. The one I installed is an 'F', so hopefully it will last longer : )
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Buellerxt
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 10:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I bet it does, Yan. The 'F' was developed for the 1125 and Goodyear said it was a 'big' improvement. Best of luck.
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Monday, August 20, 2012 - 11:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My 2008 belt lasted 16000 miles.
Seems to be about par.

The new belt will be so damn tight that you will swear that you did something wrong.
Like guitar strings!
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Ourdee
Posted on Tuesday, August 21, 2012 - 12:17 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I suggest you ride that belt 10,000 miles then install the next belt. Keep the 10k belt for an easily swapped on the rode spare.
At least that is what I've done.
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