| Author | Message | ||
     Panhead_dan |
The rubber is preventing the bolt from coming out and the threaded insert is turning instead of the bolt. Has anyone run into this? How did you get past it? Just rotating the engine to replace some leaky gaskets. arrgg help please (Message edited by panhead_dan on August 03, 2012) | ||
| Etennuly |
Remove the cable retainer and the two bolts that hold the isolator to the head. It sounds like the bolt is corroded into the tube that is the center of the rubber isolator. These things will rust into place. Penetrating oil may help but it does not matter if the center of the rubber gets ripped out as it is being replaced anyhow. The key is to not damage the threads at the top end of the main center bolt. | ||
| Rays |
Dan, I had exactly the same problem when I went to replace the front isolator. The main bolt was so corroded in the centre section of the isolator i completely tore the rubber apart in the attempt to undo it. My isolator was somewhat dodgy when I started so it didn't take an enormous amount of force to tear it apart. The bolt was also corroded into the insert that screws into the frame and what I did was lower the engine slightly to allow the insert to unscrew enough to get an open-ended spanner onto the flats of the insert - it has a hex profile and is very thin. I'm sorry I can't recall the size but it was something I had in my toolbox. I recall reading on one of the forums where someone cut the head off the centre bolt in desperation - if your bolt is as corroded as mine was you don't want to re-use it so this is a definite option. I cleaned up the insert and loctited it back into the frame and absolutely slathered my new isolator bolt with anti-sieze. |
