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Barrick09
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:22 pm: | 
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i just got done changing the tire on my 99 x1, which required taking the front caliper off in 2 halves. everything went smooth. Until i go to bleed the front brakes (new pads also) it WILL NOT build up pressure, i tried bleeding through the bleeder and at the bolt (over 50 time each at over 20 press and holds each time). I also tried blowing through the line, not sure if it help. if there was a blockage wouldn't it still build pressure just not at the caliper??
please help, this is my daily driver and i have no idea how to fix this???
ask anything you need ill respond fast and as accurate as i can to my knowledge
Thanks!!! |
Natexlh1000
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:42 pm: |
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You took the caliper apart?
I also can't get the wheel off past the caliper but I just take the disk off for clearance.
You will have some serious bubbles in there now. (assuming it went back together with no leaks)
I think you need to get a shop to fix your mistakes. Sorry man, it sounds like you're in over your head.
We've all been there. I sure have! |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 10:57 pm: |
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Gravity bleed. Leave the bleeder cracked, fill the reservoir and leave the cap off, and tie the brake lever half-way down. When the bubbles stop, tighten the bleeder, replace the reservoir lid, and take a test ride. If you didn't misplace an o-ring this should work. It'll take several hours. |
Schmidt452
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 11:08 pm: |
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Force the Pistons back pump them out and repeat until no air comes out of the reservior. |
Barrick09
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 11:23 pm: |
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since it is late, ill tie it off and try harleyelf's suggestion, if that doesnt fix it by morning them i will take the brakes out and force the pistons back, thanks.
natex, there are 4 bolts and it comes in half there is nothing bad that could have happened from this. the other half has 3 stationary pistons, no fluid goes to these if so id like to know how? |
Blks1l
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 11:33 pm: |
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Theer is fluid on both halves of that caliper, there is a passage that connects them together. You probably just still have air in it. I use a vacum bleeder and pull fluid through the bleeder. Next time you should be able to pull the caliper off by removing the pads and pushing the pistons back in the caliper, it is tight though as far as the clearance between the caliper and wheel, put tape on the wheel as a precaution. |
Barrick09
| | Posted on Monday, July 30, 2012 - 11:40 pm: |
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thanks for the clarification i didn't notice this when i took it apart, i tried to remove the caliper without doing this but the clearance just wasn't there, it was the last thing i wanted to do but i didn't have a choice 
also the bleeder is cracked and the reservoir top is off and at half pull. will report in the morning.
(Message edited by barrick09 on July 30, 2012) |
Barrick09
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 09:06 am: |
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so i let the brakes gravity bleed for almost 7 hours. I now have fluid coming through the bleeder at the caliper.
HOWEVER, i still have no pressure at the lever?? i bled the brakes this morning about 50+ times, pump/hold/break open/close/pump with no success, last option is to push the pistons out but i don't have high hopes
Any other ideas as to what is causing this? |
Steeleagle
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 10:04 am: |
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For whatever reason, it sounds like you got air into the master cylinder and need to start the bleeding there. |
Essmjay
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 10:41 am: |
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It can be very frustrating to get them bled. sometimes it seems like nothing will work. As said, gravity bleeding will sometimes work, but remember, air goes up, so sometimes gravity will just bleed past a trapped air bubble. Sometimes you need to suspend the caliper at the high point and bleed upwards. Sometimes a syringe and forced bleeding from the bleeder works. Sometimes tapping on all the components to release air bubbles works. Sometimes none of these work until the next day. I usually have to use all these methods in combination once air gets into the system.
The front caliper will always come off with the pads out, but it can be an exercise in patience that many cannot achieve. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 10:45 am: |
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I know it may seem like it is impossible, but the caliper WILL come off if you remove the brake pads. You need to slip it down past the caliper mounts a little. Bit of a blacksmith puzzle, but it is possible. |
Duceater
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 11:55 am: |
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I had the exact same issue when I first tried to bleed my brakes. It takes a little time, but I've found a good way to do it is to:
- fill the reservoir with brake fluid
- attach a tube to the bleeder valve with a syringe
- open the bleeder and suck the fluid down through the system with the syringe (make sure that the reservoir is always full).
When the bubbles stop coming through tube on the bottom, to can take the syringe off the tube and put the tub in the bottle of fluid. Commence pumping the brake leaver. Hopefully you will be squirting brake fluid back into the bottle now (make sure not to empty the reservoir when doing this)). If so, close the bleeder and top off the reservoir. Close the reservoir and you should have brake pressure. |
Thylacine
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 01:29 pm: |
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simply the caliper comes off after removing the pads. but since you already have gone that route I will give you something but I've run into. the type of brake fluid used is critical i don't knowwhat years but harley was putting in some kind of junk in there. if you mix it it will never bleed up again you must clean out the entire system. also get a new bleeder for the caliper the stock 1 for some reason is crap it lets more bleed through the threads than through the bleeder hole |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 04:04 pm: |
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"the type of brake fluid used is critical"
For a 99 X1, you should be using DOT 5 fluid. |
Barrick09
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 04:57 pm: |
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I am using dot 5 brake fluid 
i got a syringe and hoes from work. Ill try this first followed by removing the pads and pushing the pistons back. If all else fails i will bleed at the master cylinder. Let you guys know how it goes. |
Hootowl
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 05:09 pm: |
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You got hoes from work? Where do you work? And what's in the syringe? Is it for the hoes?  |
Barrick09
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 06:07 pm: |
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lol, Hose!! not hoes and the syringe, well you wouldn't want to know |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 07:58 pm: |
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You can also pull the lever to the grip and cinch it there with a tie strap; close the bleeder at the caliper; loosen the lid on the master cylinder but don't remove it, just break the seal. Let it sit that way overnight. No fluid comes out the bottom, but with the lever to the grip the air should be able to bubble up.
+1 on not having to disassemble the caliper.
IIRC, there is an o-ring at each fluid passage inside the caliper, as well as around each piston. If you dropped one or nicked one that could cause your bleed issue. |
Barrick09
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 10:11 pm: |
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AND THE WINNER IS.....WAIT FOR IT....WAIT FOR IT....
Schmidt452  "Force the Pistons back pump them out and repeat until no air comes out of the reservoir."
when i got home the fluid was all the way though and bleeding fine but still no pressure build up.
I removed the pads forced all the pistons back, replaced the pads and within the first 5 pumps hard as a rock at the lever!
Thanks to everyone who contributed I can't imagine a world without badweb and the people who make it up.
Now does anyone know some good brake fluid removing tricks because my bike is covered, i mean tire, rim, caliper, pads, floor, forks, bars and lever! |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Tuesday, July 31, 2012 - 10:20 pm: |
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Brakleen on a rag, followed with a healthy coat of wax/polish. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 07:12 am: |
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Excellent thread. I'm sure it'll come handy one day. The shear amount of knowledge from experience is just amazing. |
Ratbuell
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 08:04 am: |
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Just to add to the knowledge file - you can grind down the "corner" of the caliper that catches the rim, to make it easier to remove. I can't remember which it is, but if you're trying to rubiks-cube one out...you'll know which corner it is. Clearance it just a little bit.
Not recommended on the early bikes (S2, early S1) with the PM calipers though. Those PM's are artwork. The Nissins, it pretty much disappears once you're done, and blends right in. |
Schmidt452
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 01:18 pm: |
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Sweet! Glad to here you are back on the road. |
Buellistic
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 01, 2012 - 02:00 pm: |
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"i" feel awful about not being able to offer help "INFO" here !!!
"i" change my brake fluid once a year and in the 111 thousand miles and 15 years, no master cylinder or clapper problems have ever occure'd ... |
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