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Hybridmomentspass
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

After 18xxx miles its time for new front brake pads.
What are the torque specs for the caliper?
I hate brake changes, rarely do them, will I have to bleed brakes when changing pads?
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Stirz007
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 05:27 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Brake pad changes are really easy. You do have to drop the wheel to get the caliper off, of course, but after that, just remove the pins (silver 5mm? socket-head) and slide the pads out. New ones in, reinsert pin, caliper and wheel - good to go. (Try as I might, I could not get the inner pads out of the caliper without removing it). I had to change mine out between races last weekend and it took maybe 15 minutes, including safety wiring.





No need to bleed - don't have the torque spec with me, sorry

(Message edited by stirz007 on July 03, 2012)

(Message edited by stirz007 on July 03, 2012)
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Sprintst
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I had no problems replacing the pads without removing the caliper. Just drop the wheel.

YMMV

(Message edited by sprintst on July 03, 2012)
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 06:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

35lbs for the caliper bolts, but if you wire and use anti-seize, 30 is better.

12lbs for the pin hangers.
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Tsnake
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 07:16 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

could you explain why anti seize please , jd?
thanks
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Jdugger
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 07:51 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Because I do a TON of wheel swaps and I don't want to risk galling the caliper threads.
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Stirz007
Posted on Tuesday, July 03, 2012 - 08:22 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Stainless steel caliper bolts + aluminum fork mounts = beaucoup galling potential.
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Hybridmomentspass
Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2012 - 12:31 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Bummer about dropping the wheel. While I've changed front tires several times, its hard loading bike on lift backwards by myself.
And the front stand is in trailer outside, don't feel like dealing with that tonight.

Thanks for info on tq specs as well as tips!
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Father_of_an_era
Posted on Wednesday, July 04, 2012 - 12:37 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I hung up my R to the rafters in the garage to elevate the front end enough to remove the tire while the back end was being supported by my pit bull stand. Worked out pretty good.
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Lospice1
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 08:57 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Sorry if I'm late...but you DO NOT NEED TO REMOVE THE WHEEL!! Just remove the brake fluid reservoir to give you slack enough to wiggle the caliper between the rotor and wheel. Easy peasy.
Will
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Terrys1980
Posted on Friday, July 06, 2012 - 09:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Put some painters tape on the spokes and surrounding areas to prevent scratches and chips when removing the caliper.
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