| Author | Message | ||
     Rokoneer |
I need to pull out the wheel bearings on my XB so I can get my wheels to the powdercoating place and it sure looks like my tried and true method of using a BFH and a punch won't work on the XB. The options that I know of are the HD puller ($$$) and the pullers sold by American Sport Bike and Iron Machine ($$). I'm wondering if there isn't some option one of you know about thats more in the ($) range. The Knowledge Vault had a link to something from Harbor Freight but it is no longer sold by them. I just don't feel like spending a lot of loot for a tool that will get used very rarely... | ||
| Spiderman |
go rent a blind hole puller from a auto parts store. you will need a friend to help with this. | ||
| Dasxb9s |
I know a guy (god that sounds so cliché) who did this... he left bearings in the wheel during the powder coating process so he did not need to clean the powder coating out of the wheel so the bearing could be reinstalled. Granted the heat curing ruined the bearings... but all that was needed was to pull the trashed bearings and install the new... no removing the powder coating from the wheel to allow the bearing to be pressed in. Just a thought... | ||
| S2pengy |
One possible thought for the future... On the tuber wheels the spacer between the bearings has a flange at either end to help hold it in position... The flanges can be removed.. When I reinstalled the spacer I removed the flange from one end... The idea being then I can force the spacer to one side and use a drift to remove bearings from that point on.... I plan to keep my Buells for awhile  | ||
| Steveford |
Dasxb9s, Someone is pulling your leg. Exposing a bearing to 400 degree heat will cause the grease to leak out of the bearing which will ruin the powder coating job. You mask off wheels with high temperature tape and high temperature silicone plugs (a tedious business that you do after the conversion coating and initial bake). I did this for a living a few years back and used wheels are a bitch as the heat always brings oil to the surface. Exciting watching cast magnesium rims bring the iron phosphate tank to a roil, though. Stand back, this looks like it's getting ugly... | ||
| Dasxb9s |
Steveford... I basically got the readers digest condensed version of the process... or I could have totally got what the process to protect that area wrong... for all I know... the bearings were "baked first" and "sterilized" then set in place... it was a very short conversation on that subject. AND I apologize if I passed on bad info... and if I would have been less distracted when I posted the original comment... I would have realized that heat and grease would have factored in. Thinking about it I am betting the bearing were removed... and disassembled... "sterilized"... and just the outer part set back in place. I do not know the technical level of where the powder coating was done... I do know some places might take short cuts... if it is like any other industry. I also know now there are powder coat kits that cure in household ovens... assuming you never want to use the oven for food. I do know this was said... the original set of bearings were not re-used as new bearing were installed. AGAIN... I apologize for getting the information twisted! My point was... be sure that area of the wheel does not get powdercoated... I have seen Earl Schib type $99.00 paint jobs where places that were not supposed to be painted were... and I am sure there are some places that when told to powder coat a wheel... and that is not their typical job... that the entire wheel would get powdercoated! My intentions were good... but as we all know... the road to hell is paved with good intentions!!!! | ||
| Shazam |
Steveford, Das is right, that is exactly how I did it. and there were/are no imperfections apparent from oil or grease seapage! Maybe I got lucky. | ||
| Steveford |
I think that I misunderstood. You're talking about reinstalling clean outer bearing races in lieu of high temperature tape and that would certainly work. |
