| Author | Message | ||
     Nwrider |
Does the core just float in the packing and rattle when the packing is burned up? I have less than 500 miles on a NOS race can. I found a post where someone said it lasted less than 2k but less than 500?!? Is the core secured any other way, if not can it be? Thanks for any insight! | ||
| Ratbuell |
There's a "snout" in each endcap that the core slides over. Do you have a loose rivet(s)? | ||
| Nwrider |
No loose rivets at all. Shaking the can front to back I get a clunk. The clunk is on the inlet side and feels like it has 1/4 inch of play or more. Are the "snouts" tapered? If straight I would assume the core has to be precise in its length. Otherwise it would be loose or the cap would not fit all the way on. | ||
| Harleyms |
Here's what mine looked like when I got it, there were 2700 miles on it then. The previous owner only put about 400 of those on it, and it was on the bike when he got it. So I'm not sure of the mileage on the can.  | ||
| Nwrider |
Lookin pretty toasty there. I read in some other threads to open the outlet end. Is the core press fit on one or both ends to the caps? I have not cracked my open yet. Thinkin I will order up the kit on American Sport Bike first. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I repacked both of mine with steel wool instead of fiberglass. We'll see how they hold up  | ||
| Harleyms |
It wasn't a press fit on mine, the inlet and outlet pipes stick through the end caps a bit and the baffle core just fits over them. I will add that the core is a flat sheet rolled into a tube and spot welded, mine had already broken all the spot welds and started breaking the core up a bit where the ends meet. I used my mig welder and an easy hand to tack it back together before I repacked it. When I have to do it again I plan to try the stainless wool. | ||
| Nwrider |
Thanks Harley.. Maybe I should just replace the core with something sturdier while I am in there. Ratbuell... is there a sound difference with the steel wool? | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
just finished repacking mine today with #3 steele wool. the inner core is a loose fit but i went around the ends with a crimper tool to tighten up the fit and then used red RTV on all the mating surfaces. This time i installed nut plates instead of rivets. The rivets (chery-max) get loose to easily and are a pain to drill out. now have #3 drilled head, safety wired bolts securing the fwd flange. Will be easier to repack now. Just ran up and it sounds good. low-n-throaty. | ||
| Nwrider |
I just pulled it apart. Kinda think I should have just lived with the rattle until I needed a re-pack. It would have driven me crazy tho. Packing was just a little crispy near the inlet. The core was not spot welded its a solid weld the length of the core. I was thinking about using some thick high temp gasket material on the caps where the core rattles against it. It would be a thud instead of a tink sound.. hehe. Nut plates? Like the kind that slip over sheet metal or did you tack them on the inside? Only two rivets spun on me and gave me trouble rest were cake. Think I will try the steel wool, run rivets this time around and try that gasket material. I had thought about squeezing the core out of round on the ends for a tighter fit. Did you put a bead of red RTV on the core ends as well to minimize rattling?   | ||
| Dannybuell |
has anyone ever tried a welders blanket? seems like it would be easier to work with. | ||
| Harleyms |
your core is different than mine nwrider....mine had three spot welds holding it together, one at each end and one in the middle. Yours looks like it would for sure hold up better. | ||
| Ratbuell |
I didn't notice any sound difference with steel wool. Maybe a *little* crisper, but that's it. I pulled off the endcap (forget which...probably inlet), dumped the old packing (both remaining lint-balls), wired my core back into a tube with some safety wire (just wrapped it to hold in in shape), put it back in the main can, and started stuffing steel wool down in there till it was moderately tight, full, and holding the core in place. I then reinstalled the endcap with the proper rivets from American Sport Bike. No issues so far, and it sounds great. | ||
| Ustorque |
Last time I repacked my Jardine on my XB, I decided to try something new because i was tired of the packing blowing out. I went with wood stove door gasket(rope type). I had 7K on the pipe with no deterioration. it held up great. | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
I used red RTV on the core to end caps, and the end caps to can. helps cut down the rattle for a while, and seals the gaps. The nut plates i used are riveted in place (aviation style). Their not easy to install so i wouldnt recommend doing it unless you have access to all the proper tools, the blind rivets will work fine. Im an aviation mechanic with some spare time so i have all the tools and hardware to do the nut plates and like to see the safety wire on my bike. | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
When I repack I plan to use the bronze wool I use to clean up on my boats. Boaters use it because steel wool breaks up and the small particles are big enough to cause rust spots on deck. It is similar to steel wool but it will not rust and seems more resistant to breaking up. You can find it at any good marine supply store. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
+1 on the steel wool rusting. I've never used it on boats, but I am careful about using it on woodwork for the same reason. Steel wool is also very flammable. In fact 0000 steel wool is good as fire starter because it can be ignited with just a spark, although in an exhaust it'll probably be fine. I have no idea how well it will hold up in an exhaust situation though, and perhaps the rust won't be an issue. | ||
| Essmjay |
I just had a driver point at my left rear so I got off the freeway and found nothing wrong. Was doing steady 84,maybe I was shooting flaming steel wool? Ha ha hope not. | ||
| Nwrider |
I didn't even know bronze wool existed! I want to ride this weekend so I'm off to get some steel wool and rivets. Either that or grab a turn down and rock an open header for the weekend! | ||
| Snowbees |
acoustafil sold here in the uk expands on heating packing your silencer nice n tight. http://www.saveguard.com/exhausts/acoustafil2.htm | ||
| Nwrider |
Wow... That packing is crazy... Maybe next time. Got her packed with steel wool and on the bike... Lil raspier than glass packing. Really noticeable when down shifting. | ||
| Sleez |
here is what i did to mine, should last a very long time. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/476 23/444831.html?1237409821 | ||
| Dannybuell |
Sleez ~ stove rope! | ||
| Nwrider |
That looks nice sleeze. Almost makes me wanna pull ny can apart again... Almost. What is the material you used around the rope? | ||
| Albert666 |
michael, you want some acoustafil, give me a shout | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Sleeze, That is a very nice solution: Stove rope surrounded by ceramic packing. Looks like it should last for a very long time. I know about stove rope, but what can you tell us about the ceramic packing? Also, how does it sound? | ||
| Sleez |
the ceramic/basalt packing was a fluke. the company FMF happens to be in the next town, i went in looking for some stainless pipe ends, and when i was talking to one of the engineers, he says he has this cool packing they use on mufflers all the time, and he goes over and cuts me off a big piece, no charge!! to be perfectly honest, i haven't finished the bike yet....damn it has been that long??? so i can't say for sure what it sounds like, but i am sure it sound better than it did!! | ||
| Nwrider |
Thats a score Sleez. Sounds like to you need to finish your bike! Albert.. I very well may hit you up.. the steel wool works but is really raspy. Not bad but I liked the smoother sound of glass better. | ||
| Albert666 |
i can possibly stick some in the old suitcase for august | ||
| Nwrider |
If you would sir... or just ship it. FL to OR cant be a whole lot cheaper than UK to OR.  I sent you an email Alan. Thanks. | ||
| Essmjay |
So I repacked my SS 2R today thinking the steel wool had burned out. But it was in great shape. I went ahead and repacked with official fiberglass muffler packing because I had it and the old packing was a mess after I tore it off to check it's condition. I have photos but for some reason this phone won't let me browse for images on this text entry with badweb. Anyway, 2000 miles of hard running and no burnt steel wool. My muffler is lighter now though. |
