| Author | Message | ||
     No_rice |
looks like i finally get to do a little fixing of my 08 1125r. been pretty maintenance free up until now. but currently its running rough at idle(if it will idle without stalling) and the engine light kicked on. p0506 is suppose to be an error for to high of an idle, funny since the thing barely will idle. i had noticed(in hindsight) that i kept asking myself why i didnt have much compression braking the last couple times i took it out for a run. i think this problem may have been just starting not long ago since it messes with the motors intake of air which would also keep the revs up a little high and longer when i let off the throttle(which i also noticed) anyway, yesterday the engine light kicked on while riding, i shut it off and restarted it and the light didnt come on for the rest of my ride. this morning i couldnt hardly get the thing to run. so checked the code and got the IAC error. figure ill have to tear into it in the next few days to see what i can see. it definatly sounds as if its sucking a little extra wind, so may just have a vacuum leak, or i may have to clean or replace the IAC. fun. does anyone happen to know about what the IAC step should read at idle? with the bike not running the IAC step reading is about 157/158... which from what im reading seems way wrong. | ||
| Dannybuell |
I remember reading here not too long ago about a rough running bike getting better when the ECM's electrical connectors got cleaned. Connectors are a weak link where corrosion may enter and impede the flow of electricity. disconnect the battery and start hosing things down with some contact cleaner. http://www.amazon.com/CRC-Electrical-Contact-Clean er-Aerosol/dp/B003NTQCA2 Start with the ECM. Don't forget to add some new dielectric grease and a TPS reset. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Tim Loretta's running like crap too. Down 15-20HP with a real jagged dyno plot.. Right now(haven't had time to tear into her) I'm thinking cam chain guides are worn and sloppy. I'll go out and look at her now for the IAC steps.. Z <edit> key on/motor off 162, start and idle - 79-83 @1200rpm (Message edited by zac4mac on June 16, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Not more than 15 minutes ago I was inside of my airbox tinkering with the IAC hose. I had disassembled things for some maintenance checks, and put everything back together and went back inside. 15 minutes later it dawned on me that I hadn't bothered to re-insert the IAC hose through the port in the airbox base, so I went back out and took everything apart again. The IAC hose was nowhere to be found. When I had pulled up the lower airbox baseplate the IAC hose got pulled completely off of the IAC. The little hose was laying deep down between the two cylinders and I had to spend quite a bit of time trying to recover it. When I put that little IAC hose back on the IAC, I realized that it was a really poor connection that is prone to slipping off. It would really benefit from a hose clamp. If you're having IAT problems then it might be worth looking at both ends of the IAT hose to be sure they're properly secured before you go thinking about pulling off the IAC. While we're talking about airboxes, I've got a question for you guys: What keeps the left rear corner of the airbox held down? The plastic bodywork bolts to the airbox cover, but there's nothing to hold the airbox cover down at the left rear mount point. Up front there are two bolts from baseplate to chassis and two bolts from the bodywork to chassis near the gas cap. On the right rear the bodywork bolt goes through the solenoid mounting plate to hold the airbox down, but there doesn't seem to be any mount point to the chassis on the left rear corner. Why not? | ||
| Zac4mac |
Not quite sure what you're looking for Bob. My outer airbox has 4 screws, right rear goes into the solenoid bracket, left-rear goes to a brass insert into the inner airbox.. IIRC. Inner airbox baseplate has 2 screws at the top. Z <edit> added location of insert. (Message edited by zac4mac on June 16, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
The plastic bodywork "airbox cover" has 4 mounting screws. Two up front by the gas tank, two in the rear under the lip of the seat. The inner airbox baseplate has two mounting bolts up front. It also has threaded brass inserts on the left and right sides in the back. On the right side, the T30 bolt goes through the body plastic, through the solenoid bracket, and into a brass insert on the airbox baseplate. Doing this provides a firm mount to the chassis via the solenoid bracket, because the solenoid bracket is itself bolted to the frame. On the left side, the T30 bolt goes through the body plastic, directly into the brass insert on the airbox baseplate. There is no bracket to frame on the left rear, like there is on the right rear. The net result is that you can bolt the plastic bodywork to the airbox baseplate's brass inserts, but the entire airbox baseplate, inner airbox cover, and outer airbox cover aren't mounted to the frame on the left side like they are on the right. On the left side they are totally free-floating. At least that's how they look on my bike now. I'm thinking there has to be something wrong -- the airbox should have a firm mount to chassis on both rear attachment points, right? | ||
| Timebandit |
In other words, is the airbox baseplate supposed to have a 3-point attachment to frame or a 4-point attachment to frame? Right now I'm looking at a 3-point attachment, where there are 2 bolts to frame at the front lip of the baseplate, one bolt to frame/solenoid bracket on the right rear, and no connection to frame at the left rear. | ||
| Zac4mac |
Bob The only "firmness" is from the clips around the bottom of the upper and the foam strip to provide sealing pressure. You are right that it's essentially free-floating left-rear. I think that's part-of-why the clear bodywork - Cherry Bomb, Amber and Kick-Ash had "exotic" mounting hardware. Working OK on Loretta at 4 years and 28k miles. I installed Amber with stock screws and it crackedbroke within 2k miles. Put a Kick-Ash cover on, with the mounting kit and she's good 10k later. The 09 Uly I got with 12k is about to match her miles... love that tractor motor. Zack | ||
| Timebandit |
just re-read my earlier post. "IAT" is a typo. should be "IAC". | ||
| No_rice |
well, tore it apart, took the throttle body loose and pulled the IAC off. cycled it a couple times, it came apart(as in fell apart)... got it stuck back together and reinstalled it5 as well as the throttle bodies. seems to be working. i sat it next to my 1125cr, fired them both up and watched both of their reactions, and settings in data mode. they are pretty close. and the R starts up just fine now. although, now that im standing here at work thinking about it after my ride in this morning, i never tightened down the damn bottom clamp on each throttle body boot... DAMNIT!!! now i have to tear it back apart again. ugh. atleast its simple. should only take me about 15-20 minutes. to pull apart and reasemble. or less if i dont dawdle. |
