| Author | Message | ||
     Imaposer2 |
The stock bars on my S1 aren't bad, although I do think I'd prefer if they were a little higher, a little closer, or both, to take a little weight off my hands and wrists. I'm not looking for anything radically high, or with too much sweep. I would like to maintain an overall sporting position, but I think a slight change in the bars could increase my comfort on the bike and improve the enjoyment that much more. I've already played with adjusting the stockers and have decided that they're just not going to do it, so I'm searching for an alternative. I would also prefer to keep stock control cables, brake line, top clamp, etc. Can anyone recommend something that works for them?  | ||
| Ratbuell |
Blast bars. They're the same as S3T bars and should still be available. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Hate to be a dumb ass, but could you give me an idea of about how these compare to the stock bars on my S1? And would they still allow retention of all of the stock cables, wiring, etc? | ||
| Hootowl |
Have you thought about risers? http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/16199.html | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Yes thanks, but I'd rather pursue a different bar bend if possible since I'd like to leave the top bar clamp and gauge cluster in the stock location and I just think it looks slightly cleaner without aftermarket risers. If I can't find a suitable bar, then the 1" risers will be next on my shopping list. But, I'm sure I can find a bar. I guess I can always take some measurements of my stock bar and start looking for aftermarket bars with more height and/or pullback, but I figured there was no sense in re-inventing the wheel since I'm sure someone else here had already gone down this path before me. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I use dirt bike bars on my X1 and have been very pleased with them.  | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Which bend did you go with, and can you tell me how they compare with your original bars? Also, it appears that that bar doesn't have the crossbar. Did they come that way, or did you just remove the crossbar? | ||
| Bigslug |
I put the Renthal ATV race bars on the M2. http://www.renthal.com/File/apps1.asp?tabtype=5&pr oductid=0&appid=ATV&zone=&biketype=&manufacturer=& model=&bikedate= I like a bar that does not have a lot of sweep, and these fit the bill. I think I cut 1" off of each end, and I had to remove the crossbar to make them fit. I definitely prefer them to the stock bend. Mike | ||
| Foximus |
I was using those for a long time... But eventually i hated how even it kept my hands with my shoulders. So then I moved to low rise dirt bars. Then I didn't like how high that kept me. So I went with a set of aluminum drag bars that have no rise. I like how they ride, but they do tap the tank. | ||
| Preybird1 |
I specifically went with bars that had no center support because it blocks the odo\speedo cluster and i do not like that. I do not know the brand but they are 2.5 inches higher than the factory bars are. if you look closely you can see the bars taper up at the ends and really8 help on the wrists and nuts! This way i am not riding in a leaned forward position on my nuts. | ||
| Rempss |
I cannot recommend "Laverda" bars enough. I wish they were more easily available. They can be found, I "think" Omars may have or get them. An internet search will find them in various places. I found mine here in the classifieds about a year ago. They are a 5 piece design, the bottom "cross" bar fastens to the factory triples. An elbow caps this off, it has 2 lengths to add either width or height/depth. Then short straight bars from the elbows. Much easier to see in the photos than my description I think. They are adjustable from the cross bar, then the elbows have teeth on both ends with about 10° increments to keep them secure. Provide just about the most adjustment of any bars I have tried. These are made by Raask, I had them powder coated silver to get rid of the chrome. Have worked out very well. I can keep them adjusted back and up a little for a real comfortable up riding position. They are very close (about .20") to the tank but don't bump at all. Work fine with the stock controls. These are some quick photos - typical internet photo -  overall photo as installed -  close up of triples (these are not stock, but the same size) -  left side controls & elbow -  pulled far right distance to tank -  Jeff (Message edited by rempss on May 30, 2012) | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Now those look interesting.  With the range of adjustment possible I bet I could find something comfortable. I did a bit of research and found them here: http://www.rearsets.info/handlebars.html That is the address to Omar's rearsets which it seems is a different company than Omar's Dirt Track Racing. At least according to this disclaimer found on Omar's DTR: "Please note: Omar's Rearsets and Ed Morton are not affiliated in any way with Omar's Dirt Track Racing". Couldn't find them there but when I saw that disclaimer I googled Omar's Rearsets and BAM! there they were! They are available chrome or black. Still on the fence about them though. $170 shipped is a bit more than I had intended to spend to improve the slight issue I have with the stockers. I mean, they may very well be worth it since they offer so many options of height, sweep, pull-back, etc, as long as they don't present any clearance issues. But, geesh, that's a good bit of dosh to spend compared to nice set of aluminum Rentals or similar at less than half the cost, or even less if I could find the right bend in a steel bar. The main advantage I see is that I could play with these until they suited my desire, whereas if I bought a set of Renthals, or whatever, they may work or they may end up in the spare parts box in the attic.  Everyone is different and it's really hard to find a set of bars that's JUST right. Just a slight change in the sweep can make a big difference in the pressure on your hands, the angle of your wrist, and can even cause muscle spasms in your upper back if incorrect for your shoulder width, etc. I can definitely see a possible advantage with these bars. But, GEEESH, a HUNDRED AND SEVENTY BUCKS! I'm still mulling these over in my head, but I sure do appreciate the recommendation and all the great pics!   | ||
| Rempss |
Changed the link thanks for the info. After having them, worth the money - to me -but I do understand the difficulty of the decision. Good luck! Jeff | ||
| Fahren |
I'd second Ratbuell's suggestion of Blast bars. Can't be much expense involved there, to give them a try. You may find someone in the Thumper section willing to lend or give you a pair; many Blast owners swap out to Renthals or other. (Message edited by fahren on May 30, 2012) | ||
| Dannybuell |
I found out years ago that my us of core muscles had a lot to do with how my hands and wrists felt, and how well the bike handled. If you are leaning on the bars you are doing it wrong. Can you invert those bars to be below the mounting point? (Message edited by dannybuell on May 30, 2012) | ||
| Thylacine |
Pro taper woods low,perfect for me.  | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Well, after over 35 years riding motorcycles of all types (well, accept cruisers) I'll have to respectfully disagree with you and say that I don't believe I'm "doing it wrong".  Now, I will agree that when I'm in the good bits, then yes, the weight comes off my hands and is transferred to my core and supported by my thigh muscles. My shoulders drop, the angle of my elbows increase and I assume the "attack" position where I have better feel and control. But, unfortunately I don't live in a place where I'm always in the twisties, and for everyday riding it is inevitable that some weight will be carried by my hands and wrists. After spending some times battling carpal tunnel, numb hands and the low bars on my Duc, I decided that low bars just didn't work for me for the real world in which I actually lived and spent most of my riding time. Sure, when in the mountains and on the boil it was fine and dandy, and my hands and wrists didn't bother me at all, but getting there on the 2 hour interstate ride was a different story. And just the mild backroads near my home where I rode most often was the same. Pretty much gave up on the clip-ons back then and have been much happier for it.  Motorcycle ergonomics is an interest of mine and I have experimented with various things over the years. It's really a complex subject though, so it isn't always just a case of changing the bars since so many other factors all interact and either work together or against one another. I Just started playing with the bars Monday night so I need to take some more detailed measurements next weekend to compare to other bikes that I know I find more comfortable, and then figure out exactly what this bike needs to suit my ergonomic needs. But just off the top of my head I'd say if I can bring the bars up about 1 to 1.5 inches and back about an inch, while decreasing the sweep by about 10* or so, it'll be getting better for me, my build, issues and preferences. I guess that's why I find the bars recommended by Rempss so appealing. The adjustability and flexibility would allow a great deal of experimentation which would probably allow me to find the best compromise. But to answer your question, yes, depending on the limitations of interference with the various components of your bike, these bars can be mounted in any way you like. In my research about them I found pictures of some bike or another with them mounted as you describe so that the bars were below the top triple clamp. Definitely not the solution I'm looking for though. YMMV. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Thylacine, Can you give me an idea of about how the hand position compares with the woods low? Higher, lower, farther away, closer, than the stock bars? I don't want to go with the Pro Tapers due to wanting to keep my stock bar mounts and instrument cluster, but they probably offer a similar bend in the SE non-tapered version. I really think I'd like a dirt bike bar of some sort since it seems that in general they tend to use less sweep than many street bars. Maybe it's just my background but I find that they often just feel more natural to me due to less ulnar deviation of the wrist. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Imaposer2 ~ Sorry, I gave a generic answer to a what seemed like a newbie complaint. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
No problem mate! It inevitably happens when you try to answer questions on the internet and when you have no knowledge of the person or their individual experience level. It's very easy to interpret many questions as coming from a noob... I am a noob of sorts I suppose. Since this is my first Buell I still have a LOT to learn about these machines. | ||
| Rempss |
Danny - These can be inverted with the elbows "aimed" as I have them. The bars would probably have be pushed out (on my X1 width tank anyway). Jeff | ||
| Dannybuell |
Rempss ~ THX | ||
| Buellistic |
Anyone ever think trying bicycle handlebars ??? Used them on my BLAST and have S1 bars on my S3T ... | ||
| Foximus |
Bicycles bars are not wide enough for controls. | ||
| Buellistic |
The bicycle "i" got my handlebars off had wide tires .... | ||
| Jolly |
Ive tried a couple of different renthal bars and I cant seem to get a pair that doesnt hit my manta tank and cost me a good bit of steering clearance. so my plan is to try and use ducati monster bars but I need a top triple tree for an s1/x1/s3 to attempt to have a custom handlebar mount made. I want to run ductai monster handlebars which are 1 1/8 diameter in the center. I also want to be able to mount my instrument mount plate without stacking pieces together. Al sells a really nice set of flat top 1 1/8 bar adapters that the top stock handlebar cradle/guage plate mounts to but it ends up being to many pieces stacked together. I have a local machinest who is so slow its almost a crime but he is the only one I have access to. I need to buy or "borrow" for a while..a top triple tree so that I can get the pieces mocked up and cut. once done, I'll test the piece, post photos and see if anyone else wants a set. be patient though, this guy is s...l...o...w... anyone have one to sell or loan? if the guy was fast I would pull mine off my bike but at his rate I would loose a season on that plan. | ||
| Ratbuell |
To clarify - the Blast bars are taller than the stock bars, which will take weight off your wrists. No crossbar to block gauges. Similar width grip-to-grip. Should give you a more "upright" position, and the rise should allow a good bit of rotational "adjustment" to get the right position. And as noted...they're cheap. | ||
| Fast1075 |
I played around with different bars on a couple of my bikes. I found that the dirt bike bars had insufficient pullback (at least for me) causing my wrists to be put at an odd and painful angle. On one bike I ended up with clip on bars. The other ended up with (I believe) Bikemaster european superbike bars. Your results may vary. | ||
| Imaposer2 |
Thanks to those that have made recommendations. Just as a point of reference, can anyone tell me about how much higher the Blast bars are compared to the S1 bars? I have ridden a bit since I made some changes to the stock bar position. It is a bit better so the jury is out about changing them, but I am still leaning in that direction. If the Blast bars sound close to what I think will work, and I can pick up a set cheap enough, it might be worth a try just to see... | ||
| Jolly |
I just installed the 1 inch risers this morning for 7/8 bars as a temporary fix while I wait to have a set of custom risers made that will accept the gauge mount and clamp a set of 1 1/8 bars (I think the Ducati monster bars will be a great set up). I am currently using the Renthal ultra low...(i think, ive had 4 different sets of bars on this bike, i had to get away from the stock Buell bars, I think the jig may have been bad or the quality control was very poor, every pair of buell bars I used seemed a few degrees off true. I noticed it by looking down from the seat at the top of the fork. the adjustment screw was clearly visible on the right and hidden on the left tube...drove me insane..). without the 1 inch riser I was hitting the manta tank with my controls with .350 clearance (measured with silly putty for squish and a micrometer) between the fork tubes and the frame (full steering stop point) with the 1 inch risers I was able to get that down to .100. It really only matters when maneuvering in the garage or a parking lot, but at almost 1/2 an inch on either side of steering stop it was excessive and caused issues walking the bike around. riding position is great for what it is, if it helps put that in perspective, I'm 43, 5'8", 175lbs.... |
