| Author |
Message |
    
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 12:35 am: | 
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No, the recommended fork oil is not 7.5w. Thats only if you've changed the valving. That will just give you bouncy suspension, but it might be a nice ride (with compromised handling). I dont know how changing the oil level will affect the ride or performance.
"Gold valve" upgrades the stock valving (and its adjustable). RaceTech sells them. The only way to slow the stock suspension down is heavier fork oil, but that just makes the suspension slower to react which doesnt do much for keeping the tire in contact with the ground. Better valving means you can use lighter weight oil so the suspension can better follow the smaller imperfections in the road without sacrificing stability.
"Racetech Ninja 250 (2000 to 2005 era)gold valve emulators" are used (they are listed on some of the other pages in the "suspension" thread).
Suspension tuning is a matter of preference. Spend a lot of money ($1000+) and you can get great handling and performance with a decent ride. Less money = more compromise and ride quality or handling will suffer. You might appreciate the handling, but if your wife gets off the bike and complains about its harsh ride, then thats not really what you want.
I'm interested in seeing how your shock search turns out.
FWIW: A lot can be gained with just a couple dollars in spacers and some heavier fork oil. Start adding up the prices of mods and buying a used XB is a much better deal. (not saying you should, but....) |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 01:44 am: |
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You know Honda just came out with a new 250cc single with 26 rear hp and 17 ft lbs at 359 wet - uses a Blast style wheel and 37mm forks but made fitted with 17" wheels - to run 110/70 front and 140/70 rear tires - hmm - maybe fit with the swampy mod?
http://powersports.honda.com/2011/cbr250r.aspx
They'll be wrecking these left and right - lol - look nice though in a full fared way.
EZ |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 01:53 am: |
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Actually 7.5 fork oil was good with the spacers, the quick reactions balanced by more spring pressure - every thing felt quick but controlled, the Works fork kit made this even more so in the control department and only cost 120. The brace was a great improvement in high speed handling and the fact you can safely up grade your brakes and break line, and finally the gold valve emulators made every thing handle in the front end like it was on rails - I have no complaints about my Blast's handling especially with the Works shock in the rear.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 02:19 am: |
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"I have no complaints about my Blast's handling" As well you shouldnt! Besides actually replacing the front forks, you've done everything that could be done to the Blast suspension.
Springs $120
Gold Valves $150
Brace $140
Works shock $795
= $1205!
(Message edited by Gearheaderiko on October 31, 2010) |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, October 31, 2010 - 02:47 am: |
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True but that cost was spaced out in almost 10 years of ownership - and the shock was the combination of two years of goody money - lol - money put aside for the bike.
EZ |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Wednesday, December 07, 2011 - 09:51 pm: |
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Gold Valves are $170 now.
An the Works spring kit is $150.
Works shock is $900 2 way adj. or $1000 3 way adj. and throw $30 in to ship it all lol went up $100 in one years time.
Think i'll stick with my 3 way adj. $50 CBR shock put that $950 in the motor one of these days. lol |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Thursday, December 08, 2011 - 09:19 am: |
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Thump, I talked to a few fiends that have CBRs and certain years the shock either leaks or was never fully pressurized from the factory. The nitrogen valve should be under the end cap to the remote canister. |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Thursday, December 08, 2011 - 08:09 pm: |
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I use a 94 it had low miles just under 4000 very clean shock no leaks an this thing works great.
I put the works kit an the gold valves in the front awesome i can't get enough of this thing. |
Crackhead
| | Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 10:59 am: |
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It is not that oil that leaks but the nitrogen. So there will be nothing visible and the only way to tell would be from the oil foaming and the damping getting screwy when pushing it hard (track). |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 12:02 am: |
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So what exactly is the spec for the CBR shock?
What year, model, etc.? |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 10:45 pm: |
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I think it's 91-02 600CBR have the info on the buellforums site but the site has been down for a week.
There trying to get it back up hopefully they didn't lose all that info. |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 10:51 pm: |
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Crackhead yeah i have to find someone to service the shock locally i'll look into that this winter. |
Ezblast
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 03:15 pm: |
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Its pretty close - _needs trimming on the top mount.
EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 04:31 pm: |
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Do you mean the shock is almost a direct replacement? |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 09:10 pm: |
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In order to keep the tail down imo you have to redo the top an bottom mounts.
Doing so still raised it up 5/8"
Cutting done to the top mount.
Finished welded plate both side of top mount.
Bottom mount welded plate both sides cut the back out of mount and reshape.
The bottom body of the shock has to be cut to fit into the bottom mount also.
 |
Packnrat
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 02:30 am: |
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were and how is the hose routed? did you take it off the shock to thread it through the frame? or just twist it back to the rear tire area? aka the smog can...
have it part way mounted for test, and it fits just need to mill in the bottom of the shock to fit the stock mount.
and yes i did check and it is the 91-02 cbr600 rear shock,
just need to adapt the lower mounting.
.
(Message edited by packnrat on March 28, 2012) |
Packnrat
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 03:39 am: |
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well shiet...the belt is way the too lose as the swing arm gets lower.
how to fix that?????????????
how to make the rear axle adjustable????????????????????
still do not have the shock mounted, and the belt will be too lose to work.
i guess time to get some sleep it is after midnight..but then i start work at 2:am (this is my weekend). but i have been up sense 5:am yesterday. |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 12:03 pm: |
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Packnrat if you left the mounts stock the tail is going to be to high in the air an the belt is going to be to loose.
If you are going to leave the mounts stock you need to have work done to the shock to make it fit rebuilding it and adding a droop spacer to lower the height of the shock to make it work as a bolt on.
I left the hose on the shock to run it out to the rear took an enlarged the battery hole to fit the canister thru.
(Message edited by Thumpe on March 28, 2012) |
Packnrat
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 12:18 pm: |
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i know i need to rebuild the upper mount,(have not at this time) but even with this my belt will be way to floppy.
belt is less than a year old and had play to start with.
guess time to break out the sawz-all and welder.
well all is on hold any how as the drill i need to use has a stuck trigger. (rebuild time)three drill motors and this is the only one that can drill in close to make the new upper mount hole. (batt, rt angle, and this one the big power unit). and i need to be else were this afternoon.
still have thursday.
next week is supposed to be dry.
(Message edited by packnrat on March 28, 2012) |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 12:35 pm: |
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To keep the tail down you have to modify the the top and bottom mounts if the shock is left at stock height then the belt will be fine also. |
Packnrat
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 12:59 pm: |
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????
the bottom mount in the photos looks like the one on the bike now..as in location of the mount hole.
or is the swing arm to be hole lower also? |
Thumpe
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 - 02:57 pm: |
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Made the holes lower an back doubled the steel on the sides of the mount and took the back out of it. Reshape the top of it for the shock to fit. |
Weighttopowerr
| | Posted on Saturday, May 26, 2012 - 10:12 pm: |
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Where exactly does the PVC spacer for the front forks go? Between the lower spring seat and the spring or between the damper assembly and the spring? I don't want to break open my forks and be too surprised. Thanks for your help. |
Gearheaderiko
| | Posted on Sunday, May 27, 2012 - 08:31 am: |
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On top. There is a spacer already in there, you can either make a longer spacer or add to the one that's there. All that's required is to pull the fork plugs off and insert a spacer.
In case you've never done this before:
Don't forget to support the front of the motorcycle.
Adding spacers will greatly increase spring pressure and you may need help pushing the spacer and spring down to get the fork plug back on.
Washers can also be used to fine tune it.
...and most important:
DO NOT LOSE THE STOP RINGS/CIRCLIPS. They are impossible(not available) to order from the dealer and impossible to find on the floor if you let them fly. Take precautions not to let this happen. |
