G oog le Buell 1125R Forum | Login/out | Topics | Search | Custodians | Register | Edit Profile Ads by Motorcycle.comMotorcycle InsuranceMotorcycle PartsMotorcycle Helmets Motorcycle Tires Buell Motorcycles

Author Message   Pnw_uly Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 12:50 am:        Okay, no instructions, just says to re-use the existing engine case bolts. . . Other than the seemingly obvious 'install in conjunction with an oil change', any other recommendations for this upgrade ? ? ? Thanks in advance.   Froggy Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 12:59 am:        No need to change the oil, just remove the screws, place covers on, reinsert screws. Check after a few heat cycles, and again at each oil change to make sure they didn't come loose.   Timebandit Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 02:34 am:        If you wanted to use small washers it probably wouldn't hurt, and it might even help to prevent exerting any rotational force directly onto the carbon fiber. That said, I specifically asked Mike Richter if I needed to use washers and he said no, just use the original M6 bolts. It's probably a good idea to follow the torquing sequence in the 2010 service manual to avoid leaks, and to periodically recheck torque like Froggy said.   Pnw_uly Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 09:53 am:        Appreciate the info - - have the 1125 Service manual, so will definitely follow the torquing sequence there. . . Thanks again.   Jdugger Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 10:00 am:        Over time the carbon will crush and fail under the OEM engine screws -- basically it just wears out and you will be able to take the cover off without removing the screws on day. I opened the holes up just a titch and started using this part as a bushing... works like a champ, and holds the covers well, too. Flange to the outside... http://www.mcmaster.com/#2938T1   Timebandit Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 02:06 pm:        Flanged bearing -- great idea. Any reason that you chose an SAE size rather than metric?   Jdugger Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 03:54 pm:        Metric are hard to find, and a 1/4" hole is VERY close to 6mm.   Timebandit Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 05:18 pm:        i guess that's the answer i expected. i couldn't find metric either. great idea you had there -- using a "shoulder washer" to protect from both the rotational force of the bolt head and the sawtooth action of the bolt threads. thanks for posting that before I shredded my covers.   Jdugger Posted on Tuesday, May 22, 2012 - 08:06 pm:        Necessity. My bikes are ridden hard and a lot of stuff that would survive indefinitely on a street bike surprisingly becomes a wear part. I'm also in the clutch a lot (every oil change) adjusting the slipper gap so it performs ideally.

Add Your Message Here Post: -Color- Black Red Green Blue Yellow Purple Orange Cyan Gray White -Font- Arial Courier Symbol Times Verdana -Size- Smallest (-2) Small (-1) Normal Large (+1) Largest (+2) Username: Posting Information: This is a public posting area. Enter your username and password if you have an account. Otherwise, enter your full name as your username and leave the password blank. Your e-mail address is optional. Password: E-mail: Options: Post as "Anonymous" (Valid reason required. Abusers will be exposed. If unsure, ask.) Enable HTML code in message Automatically activate URLs in message Action: