| Author | Message | ||
     Rwcfrank |
After 4 years my clutch cable snapped and I had to drive home from work without a clutch. My only complaint is that I cant ride for 2 days while the cable is shipped from AS. I dont want to jinx myself but this is the first failure I have had since I bought the bike new in march of 08. I am pleased that it broke in the parking lot at work so I could choose wether to ride or not. I am pleased the Uly can be ridden so easily without a clutch cable. I am pleased it will be up and running again by wednesday so I can ride it again. Since I dont feel like opening the manual can I lean it over on the right side and change the cable without losing any primary fluid? I am aware that the ferrule is super easy to break so I will watch it there. | ||
| Buellerxt |
Hum, coated cable snapped! Where did it snap and what do you think caused it? Glad it rode okay and will be fixed soon. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
Snapped right at the lever end drum (cable end). If I had to guess I would say it was brittle where it snapped | ||
| Etennuly |
Need to keep that cable end lubricated. If it is dry it will not rotate. That makes the cable bend every time the clutch lever is pulled. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
They almost always snap right where yours crapped out. The cable wasn't sliding as freely as it should and it naturally bunched up at the only place it could until fatigue got the best of it. Bend any piece of metal back and forth enough times and it will eventually will break, no if ands or buts and it will always be brittle at the break site and that is why it eventually broke. Next time lube the cable once per season at the least if it sits outside in the rain on a regular basis. Properly maintained it will last practically forever. Mine is an 06, original and oiled. Whether it is a coated cable or not makes no difference because grit can still get down in the cable, carried there by rain and then it impedes the sliding of the cable in the sheath and will then bunch at the lever end and then eventually fatigue and break just like yours did. Take better care of your new cable and it will probably never snap. I'm a retired engineer. My 97' Harley has all original cables. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
I agree %100 and the cable and end were well lubricated. I am very proactive with maintenance hence 5 years without a failure on a Buell is proof enough  | ||
| Schwara |
As I had it out the other day for something else, I was wondering if anti-sieze would offer any more protection or longevity. Now that I am thinking it through though maybe a teflon based "dry" lube might be in order so that new contaminants won't stick to the lubricant ... or maybe it really just doesn't matter at all just as long as there is something there. I think that is where I am leaning. 1 more item added to the yearly maintenance list. Thanks for the thread to get me thinking about it. As I am still working through the details to better understand the guts of the clutch can I ask an odd question? How do you operate the bike with a broken cable? | ||
| Teeps |
The threaded ferrule end of the cable is very fragile. When replacing the cable: do not over torque. do not apply any side load. or it will break. Use some thread sealant on ferrule, then screw it in by hand until it bottoms out on the case. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
How did I ride the 7 miles home from work. I started the bike in neutral then ran along side fast enough to jump on and drop it into first. Then I never stopped till I saw my driveway and simply shifted into neutral until I coasted to a nice safe stop. I had to take the long way to avoid the red light cameras and yes I ran a few stop signs but I get off at 1100PM and traffic was very light. I know it will start in gear and you can do it that way but its hard on parts. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Schwara, anti seize kind of skins over with all the dust and grime it attracts. If you apply it thick then it skins over the same and keeps everything under it real nice and protected but it will look real dirty and messy on the outside. It is great stuff for the correct application though. Things like the axle and and I also used it to coat the outside of the crappy pre 2010 wheel bearings. Keeps corrosion at bay real well but it is not designed to be a lubricant like grease and oil. If all you meant was to put it on the very end then go and give it a try but it is darn near impossible to get it off your clothes if you happen to ever brush it with you coat. Nothing messier than anti-seize. | ||
| Razz |
I just replaced my clutch cable about a month ago.I drained the primary but I am sure you could lean the bike to the right to avoid losing oil or maybe remove some oil with a turkey baster.Lay the cable on the ground to thread it in.It already has a ring of thread sealant .I slipped the cable through a box end wrench to tighten it up.The thread sealant makes it a little harder to thread in than you would think but you will know when you bottom out and don't go any further.Watch you don't lose the spring behind the clutch cover when you pull it off.Good luck |
