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Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, May 10, 2012 - 11:50 pm: |
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I am in the process of prepairing for a valve service, I am going to rotate the engine down this time and wanted to know whos jacks are you using for the wide scissors jack Tia Jim |
Timebandit
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 12:11 am: |
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Sorry that I can't provide the answer, but I am tagging along to see what you end up using. I'm hoping that when you figure out how to do it you'll post some photos for those of us who will be following you later on. Thx. |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 12:20 am: |
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I put Loretta on a rear stand with ~150lbs on the tail to hold her down solid. A standard floor jack with a block of wood moves the motor down and up again. Done it twice that way.
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Jramsey
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 04:11 am: |
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+1 on the floor jack, lightweight Aluminum jack from Harbor Freight about $70.
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Boogiman1981
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 06:13 am: |
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i take frame off for mine so i tend to do similar but add weight to rear stand and strap rear wheel to stand in case i don't get the balance point just right |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 07:28 am: |
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I found out the first time, that if I didn't add weight, the jack lifts the whole bike before I could get a motor bolt in. So I added a: Sheet of 1/2" dense foam rubber 3/8 plate of Molybdenum - 35 lbs 3 lead nuclear-reactor shield bricks @ 33 lbs each 4x4x10 piece of steel ~40 lbs Zack |
Firstbuell
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 04:23 pm: |
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"3 lead nuclear-reactor shield bricks @ 33 lbs each" so, from here did those come....? |
Craigsmoney
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 04:37 pm: |
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I did mine with a floor jack, and just tied the bike to the rear stand so it would always be in the right spot. PS, watch how low you lower it, it will only go so far, then gets hung up on a wire. Said wire is on the front left of the motor. |
Pmjolly
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 06:51 pm: |
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Here is a video of my engine rotation for valve check. I was also changing the fork oil, so I had the front end off. I suspended the front with large straps up to the ceiling joists. Whatever jack you use, make sure it has wheels. The whole bike will shift forward when you rotate the engine. A regular scissor jack might tip over. You can see my floor jack roll with the engine. For the rear, I used my Pitbull trailer restraint bolted to the concrete floor. It is solid as a rock. I love that trailer restraint, but that's another thread! Here is a link to my video. http://youtu.be/uZGrxp09QhA |
Pmjolly
| Posted on Friday, May 11, 2012 - 06:56 pm: |
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At the end, I show the wire that Craigsmoney mentioned. If I remember correctly, it is actually the horn wiring. It is the first thing that will be damaged if you go too far down with the engine. |
Reepicheep
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 10:45 am: |
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I just put a chunk of rebar through the rear axle, support it on jack stands on either side, take off the exhaust, and use a cheap 2.5 ton floor jack to jack up the front of the engine (then lower it). I never had to add weight anywhere, and never had any problem getting the bolts back in. I just had to wiggle things to let them settle into place. |
Iamarchangel
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 02:25 pm: |
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Not seeing it mentioned here, don't know if it applies but it is left out of some of the walk-throughs. Loosen the swing arm bolt at the back of the engine. That way the engine rotates freely. At least, that's the way I've been doing it without a balance issue. Looking at it all rotated right now and wishing I was riding. |
Oldog
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 09:50 pm: |
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Tbandit will do on photos, Jolly the horn wiring gets caught? or it just gets tight James I was at HF today looking for a jack after watching the video, I have a question after slipping the belt and idler out can the axle be retightened snug and the rear wheel tied off? using the swing arm and rear mount to secure engine Oh and which way is direction of rotation looking at the motor from the alternator side? |
Pmjolly
| Posted on Saturday, May 12, 2012 - 11:36 pm: |
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The wire just gets tight. That wire is the first thing to catch. If you go too far with the engine, I guess it might be damaged. Honestly, though, I don't know if you can go too far if the forks and front wheel are still on it. The project is easy, just time consuming. Take your time. Keep notes. Take pictures. Label wires and hoses and such so they go back together correctly. Carefully check that you have torqued every last bolt, then check again. The only part I had a hard time with was just getting the rear valve cover back on properly. The gasket wanted to fall off. It was also a bit of a trick just getting the cover out, then back into the space in the frame. You have to wiggle and turn it just right to get it. When I finally thought I had it on correctly, I went around it with a small inspection mirror and flashlight to make sure the gasket was good all the way around it. I did not want to have to take it all apart again to fix an oil leak! |
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