| Author | Message | ||
     Evanj11 |
In the diagram I only see one gasket (quad ring), is there supposed to be two? I tried taking a video of my engine running to capture the clicking noise. I can't really hear it in the video though: http://youtu.be/8NPzMBpQKfQ Re-torquing the the exhaust clamp seemed to make no difference. | ||
| Bluv21 |
I can't really tell anything from your video but what i did hear is what sounded like to me as the primary chain being too tight. I would adjust it while the bike it running. Too tight would make a whirling noise almost like something is rubbing. Too loose and you get a "clacking" noise. Have you adjusted it by ear? You have to get close and maybe lay on your stomach to get good access. Back the lock nut off enough so you can get a good range for the adjustment screw to go in and out. Once you find the "tight spot" you can tighten the lock nut back up. I also made sure to know what the difference was in sound so i was then able to find "tight spot" in the middle. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Didnt listen to the video, butBluv21 is right on. Only one gasket. They changed the cover gasket from the early "quad ring" type to the later "paper" type along with a new cover. It comes as a kit. I'm not sure why you would pull that cover and not adjust the clutch at the same time. Minor adjustments can be made at the cable and unless you are very abusive, its not something that needs constant attention. | ||
| Evanj11 |
I don't really feel anything wrong with the clutch, but the 1,000 mi. service says check clutch adjustment. Just reread what the service manual says about adjusting clutch "If clutch slips under load or drags when released" - I guess it doesn't slip or drag. So I should do nothing? I don't have anything to compare it to though, so I am not sure if it is slipping or dragging at all. I was just assuming that it was best to reset it to some sort of base line. *(I really don't know much about motorcycles, probably should have mentioned that earlier) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Check the freeplay at the "cable ferrule" per the manual. If it has freeplay and the clutch isnt slipping or dragging, I wouldnt worry. If you're checking this free play and it doesnt feel like you know what you are doing, thats normal. Like many adjustments, it can feel somewhat subjective. But the lever must have some freeplay. Freeplay is defined as the lever is moving and doing nothing else but move the cable a little (very little). No tension whatsoever. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Thanks for breaking that down Erik. I will check that out later. In response to Bluv, I hadn't actually adjusted the primary prior to that video. Just now I removed the spacer and did the by ear method. From what I've read you want the screw to be a bit tighter so you "can't fit the spacer in any more." I did that and hope I got it right. I also took off the inspection cover and cleaned the gasket, then retorqued hopefully that fixes the slight leak. Here's an image of what the inside looked like.  It doesn't appear to match the image in the service manual. | ||
| Bluv21 |
It doesn't matter if you can fit the spacer in there or not. The important thing is that the primary chain in properly adjusted. It shouldn't be too tight or too loose. Like I said (for educational purposes), tighten it so you can hear the whirling/rubbing and loosen it so you can hear the clacking. This way you will know what tight and loose sounds like so you can tell what a happy medium is. Don't be affraid to get down there on your stomach with some combination wrenches to loosen the adjustment. Wear some gloves to turn the adjustment screw by hand if you wish. You may get a little sweaty from the heat of the exhaust but that's about it. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 09, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Correct. In almost all cases (I'm sure all, but...) the spacer will no longer fit after the primary chain is adjusted. The freeplay I'm talking about and the manual lists is at the hand lever and is adjusted by an adjuster sleeve, in the cable, hidden under a 'corrugated' rubber sleeve/cover. | ||
| Evanj11 |
The diagram in the manual was a little hard to understand at first, but I think I got it. Clutch feels like it operates fine. When I tightened the adjuster screw I heard a rubbing or whirring, but never really found a spot where it bogged down. So I basically just went a few flats out from where it would whir. haha, so scientific. I guess I could take the exhaust off so I could get an accurate torque and then [sort of] follow the service manual's instructions. | ||
| Ezblast |
you should loosen it till you hear sound then tighten till sound stops. Done. EZ (Message edited by ezblast on April 10, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
You're doing fine. Takes practice. A more accurate torque isnt going to help, that just puts you in the ballpark. Your chain is still new so it can be a little tighter (you'll have less slack-theoretically) than most. Its easy when you know what its supposed to sound like. Whirring is pressure from the shoe against the chain and no slack. Clacking is caused by slack in the chain and the adjuster shoe bouncing off the chain and limiter bolt. You're just looking for the minimum amount of slack and no pressure on the chain. If that gives you any better of an understanding of what you are actually doing. | ||
| Evanj11 |
I wish there was a window to check chain play. Still slightly confused about when to do the "by ear" adjustment - some say warm it up a bit and others say just after a cold start. I've heard both the clanking and whirring, but it just seems like a large range of play in between the two. (Message edited by EvanJ11 on April 11, 2012) | ||
| Bluv21 |
I would do it like EZ says. You will hear a clacking (or box of rocks sound as some others have described it) when it's too loose tighten it till the clacking stops and you are done. This leaves the primary a TAD loose as it should be. I just mentioned that you should familiarize yourself with the sound the primary makes at both extremes fo you know the difference. (Message edited by bluv21 on April 11, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur. Do it warmed up. Doing it cold will just leave you doing it at high idle. But you're overthinking it. It takes practice. Its not hard to do taking a very short time. In reality, one turn of the bolt should be the difference between the two, More than that, you need more practice. Maybe there's someone close by with a Blast can show you how its done. The manual doesnt actually specify cold or hot (which it does for every other HD/Buell). Sure, a window would be nice, but pointless. Ever try to find the tight spot on a rear chain? Its the same with a primary (front) chain. You go round and round and thinking you've got it, then you check it again, and again, and again. Its subjective and you're never really sure if you got it 'perfect'. You're then looking for some mechanical way to verify it. Buell has made it easy for you, except the repair manual leaves it too tight. Just go 12 flats instead of 4 1/2. If you're in doubt, you can always just go back to the factory repair manual procedure. Its not completely wrong and will get you close enough. Perfect is not far from that, its just done "by ear". Its about as, or less, subjective than trying to find the 'tight spot' of the chain and far less work. Count the turns of the bolt, take notes. But if in doubt, just go back to the repair manual way. You always have that to go back too and plenty of people just do it that way only. It will be just fine. There, I've made rocket science out of it, but it is really simple. FWIW: The Blast uses a semi-automatic spring loaded chain adjuster. Something that has been available aftermarket for years and HD now uses factory on some (all?) of their twins. | ||
| Evanj11 |
It is in the correct place now (after adjusting it warmed up). Thanks for all the help, I tend to over-think things a lot. I like all the extra info. Motorcycle maintenance still feels a bit foreign, but I am more comfortable now after doing a few things. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
"I like all the extra info" Well I seem to be cursed as to always giving it!  Glad you're happy with the results. | ||
| Evanj11 |
I thought I had everything sorted out but now I have a new problem. There's a knock coming from the engine when I accelerate. It seems to go away when I let off the throttle though. I am using 91 octane and even tried a little octane booster. I put in a new iridium spark plug too, because the one in there didn't have the right gap. Other thing I tried was to retard the timing. That didn't seem to make a difference. Although it didn't really seem possible to twist it very far to retard it. (Message edited by EvanJ11 on April 29, 2012) | ||
| Roblast |
Evan - I wonder if you're chasing the same "ghost" that I am. Your symptom is the same as mine. My thread is in the carb / intake section. Putting in a new Das Boot (intake manifold coupler) seemed to help mine, but it's still there, but less so. It could be related to how tight or loose the clamps are on the boot. Did you change your slow/pilot jet? I'm thinking that I might have tweaked my float when I did mine. I'm hoping to check mine later this week. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Re check the static timing and set per the manual. Reset to stock. There is a wide enough range of adjustment on the module that if you say it couldnt be turned very far, sounds like it was way off. Do not ride this way! Spark plug is gapped to .040" (.038-.043)? | ||
| Evanj11 |
I took the boot off today and saw no cracking or other signs that would make me think it is bad. Someone else mentioned it may be caused by running lean. How do I adjust the slow/pilot jet? Is that the solution to running lean? (can't find this in the manual) The bike has been basically parked since I noticed the knock. I've only been taking it out to see if the changes are doing anything. The plug I pulled out was a bit less than .038 new plug didn't make a difference. I set the timing according to service manual. It just seems that the LED stays on even if I turn it all the way (counter-clockwise.) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Reread the instructions on timing. It is timed just as the light turns on (or turns off if doing it the alternate way). Your statement indicates its very likely timed wrong. It is a precise measurement and turning the module after the light turns on (or off) is not a correct adjustment. See the carb section. There is an idle mixture adjustment screw, but it is hidden under an aluminum plug that must be drilled out. This however isnt likely to contribute to your running problem unless you are lugging the engine. Lugging the engine could be your problem. New riders and those used to twins tend not to rev the engine very high before shifting. The Blast must be revved up a bit to run properly. You just cant torque it around town at low rpms like a twin. It has a rev limiter and you cant hurt it by winding it out to the limiter (1st gear will go to 32mph-I run mine to 40mph, different valves springs but the rest is the same). The Blast is set from the factory lean, but to start that bad knocking you'd be extremely lean, not just factory. Pilot/slow jet should be replaced with a #45, but I only think thats part of your problem and the Blast should still run okay with factory jetting. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/6812.html?1335748427 Other helpful websites: http://www.bcrider.com/blast1.html http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm | ||
| Evanj11 |
I will recheck the timing, but I followed the service manual steps a few times and don't see where I could have strayed. I was shifting a bit above what the owners manual speeds suggest. I have a dirt bike for experience and I don't think I was lugging the bike. If I was what would solve the situation? I read somewhere to clean the fuel filter strainer too. I'm going to buy a new multimeter to check the spark plug cable. From what I have been reading it is "spark knock" because it goes away when I let off the throttle. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Slow down. Recheck the timing first. It sounds as if you're about to go "willynilly" on your Blast. Fuel strainer, spark plug cable, etc. sounds like fix everything and hope it works. Stop. The advantage of coming on Badweb is that we are familiar with what usually goes wrong. Basic diagnostics still apply, but we've already learned what the weak links are. Fuel strainer and bad plug cable arent on the A-list of causes. They are pretty far down the list actually. Yes, its very likely "spark knock" especially if your timing is wrong. Spark knock can also be caused by too low rpms. Knocking (not spark) can also be caused by too loose a chain. Were they the "break-in" shift points because the break-in shift points are ridiculously low. "Das Boot" or intake boot is the number cause of running problems, FYI. Too lean (das boot) or too much spark advance (incorrect timing) will both cause knock, preignition, detonation, ping (whatever form it takes or whatever you want to call it). But you already know its bad! | ||
| Evanj11 |
Alright, I will take a video of the timing adjustment so you can see. I had been shifting at ~ 20+(into 2nd), 30+(into 3rd), etc. Too low? What does everyone else shift at? By chain, do you mean primary? I guess I will pick up and try a new boot then. | ||
| Syonyk |
Depends. Do I want to go somewhere fast? Redline. 35, 50, 65, 80. Normally I shift about midway through the range. | ||
| Evanj11 |
lol Ordered two new boots today ...fun experience considering the part number was wrong in the FAQ here. The first dealer I called just said they didn't do Buell parts. I noticed a bit of black stuff where the boot mounts and I was able to wipe some off with my finger. It would probably help to clean that up too. When I replace it. | ||
| Evanj11 |
Here is the link to the timing video: http://youtu.be/nmccEBOm3Ck Gearheaderiko: "There is a wide enough range of adjustment on the module that if you say it couldnt be turned very far, sounds like it was way off." Watch the video to see the full range of the module. (Message edited by EvanJ11 on May 01, 2012) | ||
| Evanj11 |
After I did the timing again there was no change. So I cleaned the old boot and where it connects. Re-tightened it and added a little Lucas octane boost to see if low octane (I use 91) was the issue - no change. Maybe there is something wrong that I'm not seeing with the boot. Did the timing video look correct? The knock isn't really loud, but it is knocking. There was some other things I noticed - I've had a few backfires since I got it, is this a symptom of the boot too? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Nice video! It looks professional with the editing. PM sent. |
