| Author | Message | ||
     Terser |
I have been wanting a tuber Buell for quite a while and after several too late offers, one came up for sale 15 miles from me. I bought it and love it. I have owned Harleys and the clutch pull on the S2 is harder than my eglide - any ideas why? It also vibrates at speed - are there bushings to replace? I know these shake but I believe it might be to much at 3000+ rpm. These bikes are what motorcycling is all about and I want to thank Eric for his persaverence in giving people like us the perfect bike. I own BMWs, Harleys, and Hondas and this bike thrills me like no other. The bike seems stock except for the muffler (WB). Any suggustions? I am so thrilled after 35 years of biking a can't control myself. Thanks Eric and keep it up. WOOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!! | ||
| Hogluvr |
Terser, Check your isolators, they go bad and will give you that vibration, by 3K rpm the bike should smooth out nicely. I just picked up my S2T on Tuesday, welcome to the club!  | ||
| Two_seasons |
My two X1 Lightnings like 3,200rpm and up. These bikes don't like to be lugged. Isolators are cheap to replace. The hard part is the R&R. Welcome to BadWeb. Just so you know, it's Erik. | ||
| Ratbuell |
1. It's EriK, not Eric. 2. What year bagger? Later bikes have teflon lined cables and easy-pull ramps from the factory. It could be that the S2 just needs the cable lubed and the clutch adjusted, too. 3. Check the isolators, especially the front one. If it starts to tear, you'll definitely get a vibe. 4. Get a shop manual, they're worth their weight in gold. 5. Ride, smile, repeat  | ||
| Terser |
Thanks for the suggestions. My S2 is a 96 without bags. Erik, sorry for the misspelling, but you created a masterpiece and I wish I had a spare 40,000 to put a deposit on your new creation. My shop manual has been ordered and should be here soon. I have enjoyed the forum and lurked for awhile until I bought my S2. Thanks again for the responses. | ||
| 1313 |
FWIW, the Uly (i.e. '06 and up) clutch spring retrofits nicely into an S2 and reduces the clutch pull. I've got one in my T-Stormed S2 and honestly do not have a ton of miles with it, but I like it. The good thing about isolators on an S2 is that the are a LOT easier to replace than other tubers. As Joe alluded to, the front is most likely to go from normal use (and it's life decreases proportionately to the number of wheelies experienced), while the side isolators rarely fail - however, they may have degradated due to age. Congrats and welcome to an exclusive club! 1313 | ||
| Screamer |
Terser, It may be worthwhile to check for motor mount "washer to frame" contact. The washer under the large nut on the front (large vertical) front isolator bolt sometimes contacts the steering head . It's the bolt that connects the front motor mount bracket (bolted to the head) to the isolator that's right behind the steering head There were three different versions of washers used, one about 5/16" thick, the second version same thickness with one side cut making it a "D" shaped washer, and a third that was a cone shaped washer - narrow on the top and wide on the bottom. The reason for the revisions was contact between the washer and the frame, usually at about 3000-3500 rpm which would create a brief but significant vibration. Often there's witness marks on the back side the frame neck steering head. Modifying the early versions or switching to the later version will resolve the issue. If you're interested i can chase down the part number of the late cone-style washer. RR | ||
| Terser |
Thanks for the advise screamer. I will check. | ||
| Mtkawboy |
I dont know if they make them for Buells but I put an EZ Pull actuator arm on my 95 Fatboy and it made the clutch pull at least 1/3 easier | ||
| Essmjay |
Terser- You really need to add some photos! |
