| Author | Message | ||
     Georgehitch17 |
Hell everyone Im getting ready to change my tires but I haven't done it since I put on my fmf exhaust. MY question is where do i lift the bike up? I have two hydraulic jacks I just dont know where to lift it! Thanks in advance! | ||
| Nuts4mc |
a)hang it from the rafters, one wheel at a time b) in the old days we used to lift them by the foot pegs , but it's not very stable. c) buy some stands - can't afford pitbulls? there are economy versions... I like and use T-Rex stands http://t-rex-racing.com/catalog.php?category=122 good luck | ||
| Georgehitch17 |
is it safe to jack it under the engine? or use the kickstand and jack up the other side?? | ||
| 4_pete_sake |
Nuts.... the T-REX look very similar to pitbull and do you actually get front and rear for a CR for $140 the pitbulls i've seen are $150+ for the rear alone i'm in the market... thanks | ||
| 4_pete_sake |
oh.. one more thing... triple tree verses standard suspension lift points??? preference.... Sorry for hijacking the thread.... Cheers-pete | ||
| Duphuckincati |
Buy the T-Rex, yes they are that good a deal. | ||
| Nuts4mc |
Front lift = I like the triple tree a) it may be a little harder to get caliper /wheel off - but you can turn the wheel (forks) while it is supported to get the bolts/axle out - it makes it easy to work on the front suspension also (think about it... you can remove the fork legs) b) put a rag, tape some foam rubber to the top of the front fender before you start - the lifting arm may contact the fender and scrape it...especially when you "let it down" and the pin comes out of the steering stem (gravity never stops working!) good luck George - if you'r gonna us the jacks...build a custom lift pad out of wood (2 x 4s/heavy ply wood ) try and contact at least 3 points (HS geometry 3 pts define a plane) under the engine/foot pegs...but it will take away from the jacks accessible height...is the jack that short? might have to buy a small floor jack /remove the "lifting pad" and bolt on your custom lifter. Or....use the side stand to get a jack under one peg , lift it onto that peg and slide jack #2 in place ....but how do you keep it stable? - it's gonna fall...buy some stands - they're cheap compared to body work and paint. (Message edited by nuts4mc on April 14, 2012) | ||
| Timebandit |
Regardless of their expense, I if you plan on doing any REAL work on your bike, then it's worth the extra $$$ to buy the PitBull stands. I can't speak to the quality of the other stands, but I can tell you this: my PitBull stand saved my life. I have the PitBull that's made for the 2009/10 with spools. I had the bike in the rear stand with the front tire on the ground when I took the rotor off of the crankshaft. That nut is put on with 300 ft-lb of torque and loctite. I had to use a torch, a 26-inch breaker bar, and 220 lb of body weight to get it off. It wasn't easy. The first time I tried to get that nut off I hadn't heated the loctite well enough, and when I put my body weight into it, the nut wouldn't budge. Before I knew it, I had tipped the bike over about 30-degrees so that the bike was still in the stand, but the stand was sitting on one wheel with the other wheel teetering in the air and the bike was at the balancing point! Any more force and the bike was going to come over on top of me! I was damned lucky that the bike didn't come the rest of the way over and kill me! I eased the bike back down, checked the stand, applied more torch to the nut, and worked it off. Moral of the story: Don't cheap out and buy a cheap stand. Buy the best. You'll never regret it. | ||
| Dennis_c |
A jack and use your kick stand you can get the wheel off the ground. Not the best way with no other choice it does work. | ||
| 1125rcya |
So if I were selling turds the most expensive one would be the best turd? Ok I'll put that expression in different term. D&D vr's Barkers exhaust. D&D 655$ new, Barkers 395$ new. So in your words the D&D Exhaust is the best exhaust for the 1125R, even tho extensive testing by experts proves that the Barker exhaust produces more horse power for the 1125R. Moral of expression, money has nothing to do with the best product. | ||
| Firstbuell |
to better protect the front fender with a triple-tree stand - rather than taping the fender, tape a clean cotton rag around the stand's arm - 1 time & you're good forever! (Message edited by firstbuell on April 14, 2012) | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
The 45 dollar stand at cycle gear works just fine.... | ||
| Timebandit |
some people have no understanding of symbolic logic. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Some people have no understanding of value per dollar spent. | ||
| Timebandit |
One's perspective on the value of the dollar does tend to vary depending upon how many extra ones you have lying around. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Well if you have extras I have a court ordered deficit that could use some help. | ||
| Firstbuell |
Pit Bull is the established "Gold" Standard of non-exotic stands - they're US-made & do great job, at a price that said, the marketplace woke up a few yrs ago & now offers very good alternatives at lower prices my 15-yr old Lockhart-Phillips rear stand [$60 back then] proudly displays a unique "Bit Pull" sticker (Message edited by firstbuell on April 14, 2012) | ||
| Sprintst |
 | ||
| Firstbuell |
well then /thread ! | ||
| Timebandit |
Obviously, that man is an engineer. | ||
| Sprintst |
I have Pitbulls now, but the paint buckets worked surprisingly well Actually, I am a packaging engineer | ||
| Jleblanc26 |
Be careful with hydro jacks. Tried with no stand, and ended up encountering the worst 1-2 seconds of my life when the jack let go and my bike tipped over with no back tire on. Hit the ground and broke Right side mirror off and about two inches of my brake lever. Will not do it again without a stand, possibly the trex. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
Yeah no stands can be pretty rough. I've lifted via rafters a few times but have a rear stand now. Looking for a triple tree type front stand in the affordable realm and think I may have found one. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Sprintst, I love the paint bucket idea.  I approve of the ingenuity! I have the Pitbul front and rear stands. They are awesome, but yes they are expensive. | ||
| Timebandit |
If you factor in the potential cost of damaging your bike when you drop it, a set of good stands starts to look cheap. | ||
| Iamarchangel |
When you factor in all the risks, letting a shop do it starts to look cheap (they absorb all the liability). Good enough is good enough, sheesh. Just do all the normal walkarounds you would do with anything. | ||
| Jramsey |
Modified HaulMaster rear stand from Horrible Freight, $29.95 with coupon. As assembled out of the box.  After a hour and half on the mill and lathe and a little tig welding.  | ||
| Syonyk |
An hour and a half of machine shop work isn't cheap for those of us without the tools/skills to do it ourselves...  If you don't have the stands, I'd really suggest letting a shop do it for the reasons listed. And, that said, the PitBull stands are amazing. They may be over-engineered by a factor of 10, but there's no doubt in my mind that they'll be sitting there long after the bike has fallen apart around them. They come with a label that simply states, "This stand will outlast your motorcycle." I don't doubt it for a second. | ||
| Timebandit |
I get a chuckle when I hear someone say to let the shop do it, they'll absorb the risk. I can't count the number of times I've paid someone to do work, only to find that I could have done the work better myself. I change my own tires now because I got tired of paying people to screw up my rims, and then having to fight with them to try to get them to assume the responsibility for the damage they've done. I won't take my bike to a shop unless I need to have work done that I can't do on my own. | ||
| Timebandit |
I like the look of that modified HF front stand, but like Syonk said, custom machine work isn't cheap unless you have access to a lathe, a milling machine, and a welder. That modded HF stand does look good on the front end. I'd really like to see how well it works on the rear spools. My guess is that you'd have to do some serious tinkering to make it wide enough to fit. |
