| Author | Message | ||
     Fred_is_not_me |
I just put an XB head and piston on my Blast. How do you mount the head to the frame, though? The main engine mount for the Blast seems like it is too large and the isolator no longer fits. So, how do you mount this sucker? | ||
| Fred_is_not_me |
I was thinking I could put an XB engine mount on, but I'm being told I can't. I think this has been done, I'm a little surprised I'm having a hard time finding information for it on Google. | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/70063.html?1297221122 | ||
| Ezblast |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/222235.html?1156199146 | ||
| Swampy |
This is what gearheaderiko wrote September 2010: Without going into great depth some points: You MUST use an XB piston with an XB head. Any XB head will work (XB9 or XB12) Uses an XB9 piston. You'll need to modify the front engine mount slightly by elongating the pushrod side "Do Not Remove" bracket hole (easy). Billet bracket is also available ($160) You'll need to fabricate an upper mid tiebar bracket. (I do know some have run without it though). See thread and pics for an example: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/481380.html?1233705320http://www.badweatherbike rs.com/buell/messages/20164/355851.jp http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/355852.jpg http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/355853.jpg Blast pushrods and lifters can be used (reportedly. I opted for better lifters and adjustable pushrods, so I dont have practical experience with stockers). Blast cylinder is used (but you can use XB or XL cylinders). Its almost a "bolts right on" affair. The cams take a little more thought. 2004 SE XL cams bolt right in and are XB spec cams (minus 2 cams). XB cams bolt in, but have different timing marks and timing rotor notch. 2004-up XL1200 heads are also XB heads. If you look at a used XL head, make sure it has a 'bathtub' shaped combustion chamber. 883 and other XL/Buell heads have a round combustion chamber like the Blast. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/288003.jpg | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Concur! Its very simple really. Just try not to elongate the hole in the "do not remove" bracket any more than necessary. Make sure you use the hole mentioned if you use the other hole your engine will be out of alignment. The bracket I made (though I probably posted this when I posted the pictures) is just angle iron, cut, drilled and bent cold. As said above some run without it, but I wouldnt since the bracket is very easy to make and mine after a few thousand street miles and several thousand track/race miles it showed zero signs of fatigue. The "do not remove" bracket also didnt show any signs of fatigue. I would also run the 3rd tiebar that was stock on 2000 models only. You can make your own out of a stock Blast tiebar. | ||
| Fred_is_not_me |
Awesome everyone. Thanks! ErikO, Do you have a pic of the elongated mount hole? That would really be helpful... | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I dont think I do. If you bolt the "do not remove" bracket up to the head with the spark plug side bolt, it will show you how much you need to remove and in which direction. Obviously try and keep the hole parallel and only take off as much as needed. I just used a metal grinding bit on a drill. Not much has to be taken off and it doesnt have to be perfect as the part you grind will be hidden by a washer. I'll try to find a picture or take one, but it is as simple as it sounds. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
If I was going to take a picture it would look like this: http://i66.photobucket.com/albums/h267/gibbstroy/6 75A0036.jpg But without the break in the mount. That is the side you want to elongate though. Quite frankly I dont know why they just didnt make them all the same distance apart | ||
| Fred_is_not_me |
I just need a little verification.... I am going, for example, put a drill bit into the engine mount where the screw should be. Then, press the drill bit toward the right side of the hole to 'shave off' a bit of the hole making it an oval versus a circle? | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
That would be correct. Something like this would probably work better: http://www.buydrillbits.com/products/burrs.php but you wont need to take off much. | ||
| Jetlee |
"Make sure you use the hole mentioned if you use the other hole your engine will be out of alignment." Before I did my swap, the belt always ran on the wheel pulley and rubbed against the cover. It ALWAYS bugged me. I modified my mount by elongating both holes equally. Now my belt runs almost perfectly aligned with the edge of the pulley. I also feel more comfortable having equal material on each side of the mount. (Message edited by JetLee on April 12, 2012) | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Well, the wheel and swingarm are both fixed in location. So the only way to change where the wheel and belt run are to change the wheel spacers, add (or subtract) spacers to the rear pulley, machine the swingarm or swingarm mounts on the engine or machine an offset in the front pulley. Nothing else you do to the engine mounts, tie bars or frame will change how the belt runs on the rear pulley. | ||
| Jetlee |
But by changing the angle of the front pulley (on the trans) you can walk the belt one direction or the other on the rear pulley. | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes. But there isnt a way to change the angle on the front pulley. You can mount the engine sideways in the frame and the front and rear sprockets will still be aligned 'perfectly'. They'll be in a poor direction for riding, but perfectly aligned. You're not the first person to go through this pulley alignment mind game.  |
