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Buell Forum » 1125R Superbike Board » Archive through May 07, 2012 » Clutch weep repair » Archive through April 24, 2012 « Previous Next »

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Torquehd
Posted on Sunday, April 08, 2012 - 02:56 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

clutch weep / leak, and how to bleed clutch/brake lines.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCEetGIc9ks&feature =youtu.be
after 2:00 minutes, the audio gets quieter. Sorry, amateur camera work here.

since there is a lack of information about this subject on the forums and on the web, I decided to make a step-by-step video of how to correct the problem.

Simply purchase the clutch piston/sleeve setup from americansportbike or ebr, a few tools, and follow this general guide.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Sunday, April 08, 2012 - 12:45 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you for your video.

I too have the weep and decided rather than a trip to the dealer under warranty, I'd do it myself.

Can you tell us what parts exactly you ordered from American Sport Bike. Thanks.
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Rogue_biker
Posted on Sunday, April 08, 2012 - 02:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nice videos Torquehd. I enjoyed the riding ones too. : )
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Torquehd
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 09:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

twoseasons, i probably should have put that info in the video. My bad.

it's a piston and a "piston sleeve" or cylinder or piston cup or whatever jargon you wanna use. plus the o-rings. all-included here:

http://www.americansportbike.com/shoponline/ccp0-p rodshow/18048A.html

rogue, thanks. nothing special i know, but since i just got the 1125r and am riding in a new location (wa state and a ca trip), it's all new and exciting to me.
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Terrys1980
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 10:03 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Nothing against American Sport Bike but you can get the parts for $100 from EBR.

http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125cr /ebr-clutch-actuator-cylinder-kit.html
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Torquehd
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 10:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)





these are the two pieces included in the kit - except these are the wornout pieces i took out of mine.

also, it's worth your while to purchase the proper clutch tool from EBR.

http://www.erikbuellracing.com/store/models/1125r/clutch-release-tool.html

that way you're not using an angle grinder like i did, grinding up a perfectly good dogbone wrench : )
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Pmjolly
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 11:01 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I used an offset box end wrench from Sears, and a standard allen wrench. Those are clickable thumbnails.



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Zecca
Posted on Monday, April 09, 2012 - 11:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

if I use a dot 5.1 in clutch?? Any damage?
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Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 12:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wouldn't use it. I don't know if it will hurt anything, but I know you can't mix it with DOT4. You'd have to flush out the old fluid completely.
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Torquehd
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 12:28 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Although part of me is pissed at HD for dropping Buell... They've been around for OVER 100 YEARS, and their products are some of the best designed, engineered, and produced in the WORLD.

for maintenance items (like brake fluid), i stick with the genuine HD label. I use HD DOT-4 because I know it's great stuff.

PMjolly, I like it. that's what i was looking for but Oreillys didn't carry that drop-wrench. And i'm currently away from my giant toolbox with all my favorite weapons.
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Forerunner
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 08:20 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'm in the same boat, my clutch just started weeping after installing a new exhaust. Coincidence? I think not... j/k

So does the EBR kit have all the necessary o-rings? Does the clutch cover gasket need to be replaced as well?

I glanced at the video but didn't have sound. Looks great and encourages me to fix it myself.

FWIW, I've always used AP Racing DOT 4 racing fluid in Gold and Blue in my cars and bikes. The different colors are great for knowing when the old fluid is out during a fluid change.

YMMV,
Nels
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Cycledoc59
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 08:23 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

DOT 5.1 brake fluid is fully compatible
with DOT 4 and DOT 3. No flush out required.

DOT 5.1 has an unfortunate name, which
confuses it with DOT 5, a totally different
animal that does not mix with any other
brake fluids...
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Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 08:54 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I learn something new every day. I would still read the label on whatever fluid I purchased.
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Crowley
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 10:13 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Dot 5.1 is fine to mix with the original fluid. Dot 5 isn't as it's silicone based (won't damage paint, won't absorb water - it just allows it to settle and corrode the lowest part of the system if not changed regularly, and has a lower boiling point than Dot 5.1)
If you mix 5 and 5.1 it can create a gel.
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Torquehd
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 01:14 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

forerunner, yes the EBR kit includes all the O-rings.

That large clutch diaphragm seal doesn't need to be replaced, it's a huge, soft, floppy gasket that has no problem re-sealing.
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Brumbear
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 05:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)






this is the ebr kit it is well worth the $99
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Two_seasons
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 06:33 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have the smaller puck on the outside of the clutch cover.

Does the bigger puck fit in the cover or will I have to buy the cover with the bigger cover mounted?
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Pmjolly
Posted on Tuesday, April 10, 2012 - 11:54 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

The clutch slave cylinder is the exact same part for both '08 and '09 clutch covers. The EBR kit will fit in either year cover. The internals are the same. You do not need a new clutch cover or puck. I have an updated clutch slave cylinder in my '08.
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Two_seasons
Posted on Wednesday, April 11, 2012 - 01:22 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Pm. That is what I thought, but at my age, memory isn't always easy to retrieve.
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Zac4mac
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2012 - 12:08 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's why I take notes.

CRS sux

Z
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Torquehd
Posted on Thursday, April 12, 2012 - 12:40 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

PMjolly, that's exactly what i did here. updated slave cylinder in an 08 cover, with an 08 puck.
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X1brett
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 09:36 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks Torquehd for that video it was very helpful. I did the job last night and it went smoothly thanks to your video.

I wanted to let everyone know that EBR does not currently include the the o-rings for the piston sleeve but does include the o-rings for the piston (see torguehd's picture above that labels the parts).

I contacted EBR and asked about the missing o-rings. They said they were out of them and waiting on a shipment. They advised that I could reuse the old ones and explained that they reuse the o-rings on the 1190rs. (I don't know how much I believe that.)

I bunged up my o-rings during disassembly so am not sure they will keep from leaking but after a ride around the block and sitting overnight, it hasn't leaked yet.
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Torquehd
Posted on Thursday, April 19, 2012 - 09:42 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

thanks X1brett. Also thanks for sharing the news about EBR's kit. it's surprising they're out of o-rings!!
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Andynj
Posted on Friday, April 20, 2012 - 11:35 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I just replaced my one with the oberon part. I was lucky enough to already be in the UK so got it posted to my house and brought it back in the suitcase to the US. ended up costing about $200. Kit comes with very good instructions and pics, sleeve and piston pre greased in a little bag and a couple of replacement banjo washers. Its also a nice blue color : )

Fitment was easy although I had to make a couple of trips ot the hardware store you need an offset wrench 17mm for this as the bolt is very hard to loosen that was worth they $17 I paid for the one time use wrench.

Also the circlip on the inside is a monster its beefy and about 1.75 inches in diameter, got some $10 pliers from Amazon which bent first time so I threw them in the trash ended up buying some craftsmans the big ones to get it in an out.

Bleeding was easy without a vac, three pumps and all the air was out. No leaks and a lighter clutch feel. Put about 500 miles on since clutch feels a lot better, lighter and seems to now fully disengage which it was not doing all the time before.

Would not mind trying an EBR one for a comparison, to see if its worth the extra $100 but for now I am happy - No more leaks
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X1brett
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 05:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well, I fixed that leak but now the bleeder valve is leaking. I tried to not over-tighten it but maybe I did. I found some other posts from years ago with guys having that problem. What do you advise to get that sealed up. I'm afraid to ask about teflon tape.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 05:46 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I don't know but do not overtighten it and leave it I did and my stupid ass ended up buying a new case cover cause I broke the fing bleeder off in the cover!!!!!
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99buellx1
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 06:02 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Replaced mine this weekend, went pretty smooth too.

I used a GearWrench with a 17mm socket. They are hollow all the way through, worked slick.

And it was nice to have a press available for getting the new part installed.
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Torquehd
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 08:12 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

x1brett... hopefully it's not overtightened. Is it leaking around the threads? if so, yes, you can try some teflon tape or "pipe dope". just be careful that it's only applied to the threads.

if it still leaks at the treads after that, you can inspect the bleeder fastener, but i expect the threads in the case will strip before the fastener itself. which means a new case.

i should have mentioned that little bleeder valve doesn't take much torque. i take part of the blame for that.
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Brumbear
Posted on Monday, April 23, 2012 - 08:25 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Well mine I overtightned and left it it stopped leaking so I didn't think twice. I went to first install an extra set of o rings I had and when I went to bleed it I was rushing and when the bleeder didn't budge I pulled a little to hard next thing I know I broke the little mother right off. So being the rocket scientist I am I says easy out now I am in a bigger hurry and PONK broken easy out. AAAAWWWW SHHHYYYT says I. I know, I'll pull the cover pop the cup and knock out the broken easy out well I pull the cover pop the snap ring and bong out the cup and sonafabotcher corksochages the bleeder protrudes into the cup so STOP says I for ya got a 400lb paperweight and I order a new cover and ebr kit. You guys ever notice there is always time to do the job correctly the SECOND time you do it
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X1brett
Posted on Tuesday, April 24, 2012 - 09:11 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Torquehd, you are not to blame, it was my fault. I had to fix the clutch weep before a track day and my owners and service manuals had not come in yet. Hopefully I can get it to seal up without getting a new case. Thanks!
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