Ok, work can resume again - I have a bonus coming next month and I just sold my 1125 to a fellow badwebber, so I have a little more cash to throw at this.
Still haven't touched the top end, but I had productive afternoon getting the gear case all back together. I decided to use assembly lube on everything since who knows how long it will sit.
I pulled the lifters and I have them soaking in oil hoping they won't be too noisy when it starts up again.
Obviously put a new gasket on the gearcase cover, but I also when ahead and installed new pushrod tube base gaskets and the seal where the rear intake cam comes through the cover for the timing cup.
I can't believe the warm weather we're having and it's supposed to stick around. Time to really get my ass in gear.
I FINALLY dropped the cylinders with pistons off at a local machine shop. He gave them a quick measure for me while I was there - I know they weren't in torque plates and the figures should change, but he said they were actually pretty round - less than 2 thou on each.
Will have them back in a few days and I can really get back into reassembly.
I made another thread not thinking to ask this in here...
Ring gaps - right now I'm at about .020" on the oil rails (FSM spec is .015-.052') and around .012" on the compression rings (FSM spec is .007-.020"). These are measurements not in torque plates. Too tight? Or use them as is?
Thanks - got as far as removing the old base gaskets (what a PITA) and got the pistons and cylinders installed. Went a little slower than I anticipated but she's ready to have the heads put on so I can clay the tops and check the squish. I'm running thinner head gaskets, different base gaskets (not sure how they compare to stock) and the heads were every so slightly decked, so I want to be safe.
Also want to make sure the cams are all timed correctly - one of the markings looked a little off center from where it should be but I'm 99.9% confident I have it right.
before you finish but not to much further along consider rolling the engine over by hand ( 5th gear turn rear wheel by hand ) and see if it gets stuck, if not try the starter (plugs out) if it rolls over ok your good.
BTW I thought you were fitting different cams & valve train gear, the starter roll over assumes that you fill the oil tank an advantage to a short powered roll over is to pump some oil into the engine and lines before the first start ( it helps i think )
I already clayed the valve pockets and checked the squish clearance, so we're all good there. The engine has turned over (by hand) 2 or 3 times with no hiccups.
Cams and the rest are all stock.
I'll prime the engine, but I've also been slathering assembly lube on all of the friction surfaces as I go, so hopefully the first start up is as gentle as possible.
Did a bunch of work on Thursday and then it was a marathon day on Saturday. I think I started in the garage around 9:30am and worked nonstop until it was running at 5:00 or so - didn't even break for lunch. I then started in on it again late that night and finished resetting the TPS and setting the static timing by about midnight.
Yesterday, I decided that the bracket on the stock from isolator mount for the air cleaner needed to be added since the American Sport Bike mount doesn't have it. I didn't want to mess with that mount at all, so I tied into the far side of the front upper tie bar mount and ran a peice of alunimum tubing over to the lower front screw for the airbox cover. I was able to make it by hand with a hammer, but the downside is it looks like I make it by hand with a hammer, haha. Good thing it's pretty hidden up there.
She's all buttoned up and ready to rock, now. Of course the 70-80 degree weather we had been having is gone - 30's, rainy and windy here today. Joy.
Shake down ride yesterday evening went off without a hitch. Probably rode 35 miles or so, no weird noises, smells or leaks that I can see. It was loud as hell, but only becuase I didn't have any more earplugs (fixed that already).
It was 35 degrees and winds probably 20-30 mph, so it wasn't the most enjoyable ride, but better than taking the car!
Stopped by the dealer to get some oil and a filter to do another change after a few hundred miles, and also got some exhaust port gaskets so I'm all set to swap the Pro Series pipe on in place of the Race system in a little bit. I have everything, but I want to get used to the race system again so I can have a good comparison of the noise levels.
Looks like I'm burning some oil (breather system doesn't go into the airbox any longer, so it's not that). I'm thinking this is normal with new rings and honed cylinders, but how long should it happen? There's 60 miles on the new top end.
Be very careful . You aint even past baby phase until it hits 500 miles.
Dyno runs should stay the same around 1t around 1500 miles. Totally broke in at 2500 miles. You can use a borescope to look inside the plug holes and look for oil on top of the piston. That would be a leaking valve.
Ring gaps are in the lower 1/3 of spec and staggered according to the FSM. I have 180 degree separation between the two compression rings, and a minimum of 90 degrees on the oil control rings.
It was cold when I took that video, wondering if it was joist moisture in the system or a rich fuel mixture? I suppose I should keep an eye on the oil level and see if it's actually burning oil. Like I said, the plugs weren't oily and I held my hand over the exhaust when I revved it and didn't get any kind of film. It also doesn't smell like burning oil.
I think the mystery is solved... I added some Sea Foam to the gas tank while it was sitting all winter and it looks like that will cause some white smoke out of the exhaust.
