| Author | Message | ||
     Sprintex |
While servicing my 06 I managed to strip three of the torx heads on the clutch and chain covers,I drilled them off and bought some ss button head Allen's. The oem's have a capture washer that is thicker then normal is there any reason not to use a normal washer or was the factory one just for easier production? | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
Sprint, They will come out easy every time if you do this trick. First, use a propane torch to heat the screw or bolt to soften the factory applied loctite. Not until they glow, just good and hot. Then use an impact screw driver, the type you strike with a hammer. Pretty fool proof and really works. Screws will come right out. Some folks hate torx screws and bolts but they sure are an improvement over phillip head screws by a long shot. | ||
| Xbimmer |
I don't know about banging on an impact wrench in that area, kinda fragile there I'm thinking: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/282980.html However heat does work on factory screws, I snapped off two "lifetime guaranteed" bits recently trying to remove my rear rotor. Bought a Lisle bit and dug out my heat gun, whole different scenario. | ||
| Bratigan |
Try this. Heat up a sacrificial torx screw driver shaft. I have a 4-5 inch shaft in a handle. I heat it up to just about cherry from the end to about and inch long. After heating this way, touch the glowing shaft end to the screw and hold it there. It will transfer the heat to the screw and not the surrounding area. This is enough heat to break the bond between the screw and threads if heatable Locktight is used. BR | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
When I transfered the pulley and rotor to the new 2010 wheel I did exactly how I outlined above and reused all the hardware. No snapped bolts. Easy peasy. I learned my lesson when I messed up an air box plate screw. Always heat those factory loctited screws and bolts. And always use the impact tool on those same screws. | ||
| Uly_man |
"Always heat those factory loctited screws and bolts." Yes heat seems to soften it. Friction will do the same and then as it cools again it sets solid. I have broken a number of solid Torx bits myself and turned off a Torx head as well. What a nightmare this stuff is. Its not a "normal" type of locking paste more like a glue or resin. Nasty, nasty stuff. Hate it and makes an easy job harder than it needs to be. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I imagine that the last thing an OEM wants is for screws and bolts to loosen and fall out, possibly causing an accidental death. It is a pain but knowing what takes care of it makes it easy to overcome. | ||
| Oldnotbold |
Please make sure that you are using a T-27 and not a T25 bit. Most kits do not contain the T-27 bit. Dennis | ||
| Uly_man |
And buy half a dozen or so because you will need them sooner or later. Its handy to carry a couple in your tool kit. I do. | ||
| Tootal |
If your going back with loctite then use the blue. It's designed for screws under 5/8". The factory uses red and it's way too tough for 1/4" screws. I've never had a blue loctited screw come out until I wanted it too and then I didn't need any heat to do it. | ||
| Uly_man |
I am with you Tootal. Its all I have ever needed. | ||
| Sprintex |
I always use blue. |
