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Sotipnomon
| Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 04:08 pm: |
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Hey all, I'm sure that most of what I need is scattered around on here but I have a hard time finding it when I need it if at all. Soo, I am starting this thread to see if any interested parties are willing to help. If not, please just move on. With that said: I have a hole in my front piston, an owners and parts manual, decent mechanical background and set of tools. My current connundrum: I cannot get the intake out, the inside of the bolts are rounded from my "off angle" 6mm t-handle wrench and won't budge any more, I've done the cut an allen wrench thing both 6mm and 1/4" and can't get them to line up straight enough to do anything either. Also, someone tell me why it won't work to just unbolt the swingarm assembly from the back of the motor to avoid getting into the isolators and such. It looks like it would lift off with the frame if I did. |
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Harleyelf
| Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 06:12 pm: |
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If the bolt heads are ruined, grind them off with a dremel. Start by grinding flats on opposite sides and gripping with vise-grips. Once they're gone (if you had to remove the bolt heads entirely) the intake manifold will lift right off, leaving nice threaded hunks of bolt behind which will spin right off with a pair of pliers. I believe it may be possible to change the front piston without removing the engine. If you're removing isolators, replace them with upgraded ones; plenty of threads on how to R & R them. |
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Ratbuell
| Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 09:18 pm: |
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I've replaced an entire top end on a tuber without removing the engine. 1. remove bodywork and fuel tank 2. look down. You can see the whole engine 3. remove the exhaust and support the front of the engine from below (it "hangs" from the heads) 4. remove front mount bolt 5. remove tie-bar bolt between the heads 6. once you get the intake off, you simply remove rockerboxes; remove four bolts; lift off the heads; lift off the cylinders; press out the wrist pins; and your pistons are out. Installation is the opposite (with torque specs, of course!). Now...any guess WHY you holed a piston? You may want to go to a local speed shop and get your injectors flow-tested to make sure they're not gummed up (especially the one on the dead cylinder). Typically you only get holes from either detonation, or a lean condition. |
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Sotipnomon
| Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 09:55 pm: |
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Thanks guys! What about the pieces of piston that are floating around in the crankcase now? It was a pretty good sized hole from the look with a borescope. As to the "why" I ran it out of gas, probably fouled my rear injector and tried to limp it to a shop on one cylinder running ultra lean as per what happens when you run an x1 dry, right. Also, as I was checking around right after I was going to put a 1250 kit in it, have the heads done and hot rod it out a bit. Since then, I got a uly and it sounds like these don't get ridden much after that so now it will probably be sold to free up funds for a boat or something to enjoy with the family. So, I'm totally open to just putting it back stock but I want to make sure that it is in good shape for the next bueller. How can I know how deep I need to go? |
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Sotipnomon
| Posted on Sunday, March 11, 2012 - 09:56 pm: |
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And I did get the intake out after some help on custom tool making in another thread. |
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Sotipnomon
| Posted on Monday, March 12, 2012 - 11:27 pm: |
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So it's more melted at the edge than hole. I can see the top of a ring so i think thats good. It looks like something bounced around and nicked up the chamber but it's gone. I'll try to get a pic tomorrow and see what you guys think. |
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Firemanjim
| Posted on Tuesday, March 13, 2012 - 01:22 am: |
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When you run them out of gas they "see" a lean condition and add fuel causing a rich condition. I would look at fuel pump/filter. You don't "foul"an injector,maybe a plug. |
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