| Author | Message | ||
     Alleydude |
I was wondering if the Blast or Lightning motor mounts match up to that of a stock Sportster motors mounts? I'm researching for a custom project, and I was wondering what how much fabrication I would need to do. Also, is the Blast motor basically a one jug Sporty motor? Are many parts interchangeable? Any help would be appreciated. | ||
| Halfaharley |
No, the mounts are quite different. The Blast is rubber mounted, while the Sportster's motor is rigid-mounted (until 2004, but I'm pretty sure thats a different style mount). Also, the Sportster was designed to look pretty with the engine completely naked, the Blast, however has the gas tank to cover part of it, and the engine is used as a stressed member of the frame (notice there is no downtube in front of the motor that goes under the motor). Another thing, the Blast swingarm pivots from the rear of the motor. The Blast motor is designed around the front cylinder of a Sportster. Heads(and all the parts that fit in/on them), cylinders, cams, tappets, clutches, transmission gears, and more are interchangeable. Hope this is helpful! --Nik | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Yes, the Blast motor is basically a one jug Sporty motor.However,I think adaptable is a better description than interchangeable as far as parts go! Thats the vague answer,stayed tuned for a better one.I'm sure the answers are here, followed by the question "what exactly do you want to do?" edited by gearheaderiko on December 24, 2003 | ||
| Alleydude |
Cool. Good information. I'm wanting to build a vintage style thumper, something along the lines of an old 1900's Harley. If you read the Jan/Feb issue of Iron Works magazine, there's a Sportster w/sidecar that I want to do something like, without the sidecar. I'd like to use a Blast engine to do it. Your comments and suggestions are more than welcome. | ||
| Ezblast |
What frame you looking to adapt the motor to? GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Alleydude |
I was thinking of using a Sportster frame with a hardtail conversion, with a springer front end. The other option was, I'd heard, that Arlen Ness makes a vintage style frame though I couldn't find a mention of it on their site. | ||
| Swampy |
But doesn't the sporty use a trap door for the trans gears and the Blast you need to split the case? | ||
| Halfaharley |
Yeah, you do need to split the crankcase halves to swap out the transmission gears (which sucks). But the gears inside do have the same physical dimensions as a Sportster. Happy holidays! --Nik | ||
| Swampy |
I didn't know that. This place has always been a wealth of info for me. | ||
| Halfaharley |
Me too, this is how I learned everything I know about the Blast! | ||
| Ezblast |
This is why the 6 speed is still an option - perhaps for higher gearing for track or salt, or just getting that higher top end - lol GT - JBOTDS! EZ  | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
Oh, and by the way-Buell & HD use different part numbers (so I've been told) FOR THE SAME PART! So that makes interchanging that much more difficult!! If this is wrong or there is an easy way to cross reference (such as a factory bulletin?) let me/us know. | ||
| Aaron |
There are a couple of parts I know of that sure seem that way, for example the header nuts. There's a Buell part number for'em (never in stock) and a Harley part number for'em (generally in stock) and I'm not sure what the difference is, if any. But most Buell parts have the same number as the identical piece used on a Harley. If it's a Buell-specific part, historically they've stuck a "Y" on the end of it, at least in the old numbering system . | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
I think they just changed the numbering system in the last couple years. I was under the impression that I could go to any HD dealer with a part # & get a part that would fit either Buell or HD (if interchangeable).The parts guy said that was no longer possible because they changed the numbering system for Buells. Not really such a big deal for you guys that own a shop,you already have a good idea of what fits what.But us guys with limited experience and literature are at the mercy of 'the parts guy' which can be a bad thing concerning a Buell or Blast! Thanks Aaron for the response & no offense intended to those parts guys who know their stuff! | ||
| Halfaharley |
Has anyone used a solid front motor mount? I bought a billet aluminum one that totally replaces the rubber mount, but I'm not sure how to bolt it to the frame. I'll need to make a bracket I guess. --Nik | ||
| Gearheaderiko |
My experience with Harleys has been that if you solid mount something that was originally rubber mounted, metal parts begin to crack. If its intended for short term use (such as racing or battle trax) you may be okay, but I would be most worried about cracking the frame. I haven't heard of anyone converting a stock blast frame to solid mount yet. There are ways to stiffen up rubber bushings without going solid. Erik | ||
| Halfaharley |
Ok, thats good to keep in mind. Longevity is definitely a must for me. Thanks! | ||
| Ezblast |
A question from another board - true - but it brings up a good question - How are your motor mounts? Okay, I know that I will probably get some sighs on this subject but I have to get the regular Blasters help on this… Ralph, Erik, EZ… Here is the deal on the front isolator. It has gone bad again just minutes after installation. Yes, you can imagine the frustration level after all that work albeit was fun for me and Niko to do our weekend garage roll plays of American Chopper. The new isolator came in and on the top side; it has a crown raised up ¼" above the main flat portion of the mount that is about 2" in diameter. A top 2" area is where the snubber/washer contacts the isolator once installed. In addition, seats in place once the main bolt passes through it. Once again, the reason we replaced the original isolator (4k miles) is that from the bottom side of the isolator it torn through from the Metal Sleeve insert that is molded into the center of the isolator. This metal sleeve insert is there so that when installed to the proper torque you do not crush the isolator. If you look on page 3-8 of the factory manual 2001 edition (or ENGINE section), there are a couple of pictures of the isolator with a FLAT top surface. Where the metal sleeve passes through the isolator the top area is raised about 1" in diameter. Therefore, if you were to take a side view it looks like a hat. Now if you lay the snubber in it, it will contact the 1" area and leave a ½" ring around the snubber of NON-Contact area. Load some weight on that and you can see this bolt with snubber pulling down on the sleeve till it makes FLAT contact with the entire surface area. BTW the HD dealers here along with the Buell support line have no clue. I am a mechanical engineer and believe that this design may be flawed but not critical. Again, with the previously torn isolator and with the new one there is absolutely no problems with the engine. Here is another twist. When we went to install the gas tank… it was a problem with the clearance. The Tank was sitting on top of the engine head. We could see the scuffed bubble plastic insulation. Now that the engine has settled, again there is perfect clearance as before. We ran the engine for 10 minutes and I rode the bike 3/10ths of a mile in 2nd gear. I pulled into the garage is disbelief. The heat through the bolt is hot as usual and the isolator pulled through. This time the isolator is pulled through and settled cleanly and it doesn't appear to be tore so I can understand all the prior post stating that your isolator looks fine. HERE IS WHERE YOU COME IN FOR HELP. GO look at you isolator and see if the top snubber / washer is resting flat on the isolator if so it has settled. If it has settled it will have about ½" of shaft sticking through the bottom of the isolator. View this from the right side of the bike. If you have space on the top of the isolator between the snubber and top rubber portion of the isolator it hasn't settled. In the case of it being settled you will also have a nice amount of clearance between the gas tank and the engine… about 3/8", use a flash light. Once again the new isolator is hard to distinguish if it has settled. I only gained this knowledge knowing what a new uninstalled isolator looks like. Bottom line is that I think it is a design flaw going unnoticed and the original torn one that brought this all on could have been left alone. This new isolator torn so cleanly that we would have never suspected it flawed in design or defect. Thanks again to all that have read this and contributed you time. The "isolator" Steve, and Niko. Mines fine - but surely someone had this problem and can see what is going wrong? Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Spooky |
this is a new one to me | ||
| Sarodude |
Yowza... It would be interesting to know the bike's history. I also suppose that it's possible that the new isolator was somehow bad right out of the box. Who knows. Too little info. -Saro | ||
| Miatav8 |
I know exactly what your referring to. I'm a mechanic for Harley and have worked on a few riders edge training bikes. I'm also a Master ASE and A&P for Delta(layed off). I'm going to be buying a used blast for my wife this spring. The front mount could be designed differently so it wouldn't overstress the rubber and split but the mount doesn't fail to do it's job. There are a great many cost saving measures built into this bike to create an entry level offering, and there is no incentive to redesign a mount because of a "cosmetic" defect that is hard to notice, even if you are looking for it. The engine will not fall out of the frame. The rubber below the cup does nothing. A design similar to a sway bar endlink would be more effective and not split since it wouldn't be bonded to the sleave and pull away as the rubber settled. Solid or urethane mounting would transmit a lot of vibration crack parts. | ||
| Ezblast  |
Lol - count my red bike as a part of this club - well - looks like the paid holiday will have one more chore to do - no biggie - GT - JBOTDS! EZ | ||
| Ninjabob |
howdy, I know of this part, so long as were talking about the engine mount right below the dip stick. I had to get at it when my paper gasket for my rocker box broke (2001). I went out and inspected this. I dont see any damage on my bike perhaps this is only a problem with certain year bikes ?... im no experienced mechanic and I enjoy all the input you guys have... this is just what I saw on my bike | ||
| Jonnyblaster |
Here's a new one. My '02 has recently taken up the habit of ejecting bolts. Either that, or gremlins are stealing them. First, the bolt connecting the airbox to the motor went missing. I replaced it, and I swear, the very next day I heard a weird noise that turned out to be a missing motor mount bolt! It's the one that goes through the "DO NOT REMOVE" part, just right of the horn, looking from the front. So is there something I'm missing? Is there a regular "check the torque on every single bolt" tune-up that I forgot? I'm grounded 'til the parts people get the new bolt in, so I figure I should get to the root problem while I've got time on my hands. | ||
| Jprovo |
Jonny, You should check all critical fasters every 10,000 miles per the FSM. However, I check all bolts that I can reach with a wrench anytime I work on the bike. I also pay special attetion to the front motor mount, because is is one of the more failure prone areas. probably look at that area once a week when I check tire pressure. James | ||
| Ezblast |
Sounds like perhaps the previous owner had removed them or they could have shaken loose - has happened upon occasion - and these are singles realistically speaking - still both of those are to be torqued to spec and super red locktighted as well - lol - not unheard of but certainly not common either - replace all critical exactly to spec. Got Thump?! Just Blasting on the Dark side! EZ | ||
| Halfaharley |
Also, Jonny, you ought to check the compression and make sure the stress caused by the lack of proper vibration isolation didn't bugger up your head gasket like it did to mine when that happened to me. (It took me a while to figure out why it wouldn't start after I installed the new bolts.) --Nik | ||
| Jonnyblaster |
Well, EZ, unfortunately I'm the only owner, so that rules that out. Also, I check everything about half as often as I should, James, but thanks for the advice about the mount being a trouble spot. I hadn't read anything about that except in the last few days, so now I'll definitely be keeping it in mind. Anyhow, thanks for the super-quick help, guys, now I can just go back to worrying about what the next launched part will be.  | ||
| Sarodude |
I harp on this stuff all the time... The bolts going from the isolator bracket into the head MUST BE DONE PER THE FSM. I've had a NUMBER of problems with those - and that was ONLY when someone other than me touched the bikes. No, I'm not a super mechanic. I just follow the directions. It's not a problem with the bike. It's a problem induced by someone touching that part. -Saro | ||
| Swampy |
I just found the front mount broken on the Yellow Blast....Whats the cost and what are the particulars on replacement per FSM? It was pretty strange, about 70mph there was a strange shaking of the bike! |
