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Kilroy
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:16 pm: |
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Went out to start up the bike, and NOTHING. Details: Battery less than 1 year old On a trickle charger 13.0 A at battery 13.0 A at ignition switch Ignition switch checks out fine (zero resistance in run, infinite in off) Start and run relays are relatively new. Flip-flopped them anyway and no change. Kickstand switch is permanently bypassed Bypassed clutch switch and no change. Diodes terminals were rusty, cleaned them up and re-inserted. No change. Main circuit breaker - 0 ohms resistance across terminals. I am not even getting dash lights, or headlight or brake light. Nothing. The entire elec circuit is dead. My shop manual is packed away since we are moving next week. Any hints or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I need to get this running since I have to ride it away from where the movers are going to deliver it at the end of next week. Kilroy |
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Kilroy
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:24 pm: |
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Of course I meant 13.0V not 13.0A Thanks in Advance Kilroy |
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Two_seasons
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:49 pm: |
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If you can, jump the battery with a car battery, car not running of course. And make sure those battery connections are snugged up. |
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Kilroy
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:55 pm: |
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They are snug. I am concerned that there is nothing electrically on the bike that is energized. I tried again with all the lights out in a dark garage, and I get a very little bit of light in 1 of the 2 gauge backlights, and if I hit the horn it gives 1 very weak note and that is it. I know it will start once whatever is keeping the whole bike dead is fixed. Again, I have 13.0 volts at the battery. Kilroy |
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Two_seasons
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 02:57 pm: |
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Sounds like you lost a cell in the battery. Can you load test the battery at a battery place? |
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Kilroy
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 03:14 pm: |
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Could I have a solid 13.0V in a battery with a dead cel? |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 03:21 pm: |
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Check your main ground at the swingarm mounting block. Take out all your fuses and put them back in. |
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5liter
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 03:57 pm: |
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What Hootowl said. |
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Buellathebuzzer
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:07 pm: |
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put the volt meter across the batter and read the voltage when you hit the starter. |
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Kilroy
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:16 pm: |
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Voltage goes from 13.0 to about 0.5 when I turn the key from "off" to "run". Thats without hitting the starter. Stays at 0.5 when you hit the starter button. |
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Hootowl
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:32 pm: |
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Either your battery is hosed, or you've got a loose connection at the battery terminal. A little resistance caused by corrosion will drop a lot of voltage when you try to pass current through it. Your battery could have 13 volts statically, but not be able to maintain that when a load is applied if it has gone south. |
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Kilroy
| Posted on Monday, March 05, 2012 - 05:35 pm: |
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OK so it looks like battery load test and check the main ground connection on the mounting block. Will try these in the AM. Thanks Hoot and other folks Kilroy |
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Kilroy
| Posted on Tuesday, March 06, 2012 - 10:35 am: |
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Looks like it was the battery. My own advice is to always check the simple stuff first, but the 13V threw me off. I've never had a battery with a "bad cell" before this one. Now I just need to keep an eye on the charging system to make sure that is not what killed the battery - Thanks to Two Seasons and Hootowl for the expert diagnosis Kilroy |