| Author | Message | ||
     Billy_bee |
OK, so I finally got my front axle out of the bearing sleeve. I just let some PB Blaster soak in for a few days. Went out there this afternoon and it eased right out...with a little help from a rubber mallet. So, I put on a new front tire...a Pirelli Scorpion Trail. It still has a D616 on the rear, which I will leave on until it wears out. (I have a new 180/55-17 Scorpion Trail standing by to go on the rear.) I also had a Buell 6mm front rotor ready to go on. The PO of the bike left a few things in disorder. One was the front rotor. He said I could sand it and the pulsing would go away. He lied. So I put about 3500 miles on the bike in the last 10 months with that annoying front braking pulsation while wearing down the front tire. The new 6mm rotor is sweet. Very nice piece. Went on very easily. Fits perfectly. The pads that are on the bike looked very good. They almost looked like they had some gold paint on the edges. Not sure what they are, but they bite well enough...or at least they did on the warped rotor. Once everything was back together, I had to ride. I live in the twisties: so, I got about 15 minutes in on the new front tire and rotor. The bike feels completely transformed. The front rotor is far from broken in, but the initial signs are promising. There is a fair bit of effort required at the front brake lever, but the braking power is good. The effort should decrease as the rotor breaks in. The new front tire is equally as promising. I dove into some corners to feel it out. Nice grip and good feel. I am very excited about my tire choice. Feels like a new bike. Woohoo!!! | ||
| Ratbuell |
Gold pads are Lyndall Gold pads. Be careful, I got mine to fade on a few occasions, and there is NO warning. One turn, you have brakes...next turn, nothing. Did you use the EBR rotor mounting kit too? And, I hope you scuffed those pads before putting them on a brand new rotor...  | ||
| T9r |
Based on the information from this forum the PO was not trying to mislead you in the "sand the rotor" comment. Some people have been able to cure the pulsing by sanding the rotor others by chemical.cleaning them and around the fasteners while others replace the rotor and pads. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
On a friends Uly, we put new bearings, new tried my wheel, a even steer bearings that were shot, finally we got EBR rotor mounting kit, and the pulsing disappeared. | ||
| Orangeulius |
The pulsing front rotor thing sucks. I tried new pads on my 06 with no luck. I lived with the pulsing for 2 years. On my 08 there is no problem. Ahhhh. Relief. Glad you got it fixed. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
My 09 has a pulsing rotor now too. It went in for warranty work, but they said it's within spec. Any sort of medium to heavy braking over about 40 MPH is downright scary. I've sprayed the mounting points with brake cleaner, and tapped them with a dead-blow hammer to try to free anything that may have been stuck, but no luck thus far. As soon as these tires are finished off (not long now) I'll get the 6mm rotor and mounting kit. I'm also looking forward to new tires! My current set is squared off and worn out, and they're handling like utter poo. I like the Scorpion Trails (on my third set now), but I may try out the Pilot Road 2's to see if I get any better mileage. We'll see. My other bike's getting the miles right now, so these Uly tires might hang in there for another couple months. | ||
| Pontlee77 |
Any coments of people who have the 6mm rotor? | ||
| Portero72 |
I have had the 6mm rotor and mounting kit for almost 10k miles now, and it rules. I also added EBC HH pads while I was there. A note to the OP, the Lyndall's pads you have now have very little initial bite. If you want more immediate braking, change those pads. | ||
| Ulynut |
Rat, that's interesting. I ran those on mine and had them fade on me, but never lost the brakes completely. Even did a track day with them. Is that common? | ||
| Svh |
I have the exact setup as Portero but only about 5k mi on mine and it works fantastic. The EBC's work great. One of the best mods I have done to my Uly. Other than tight financials, is there a reason people keep squared off or worn tires on their bikes? I am far from made of money and change mine almost once a year on the rear and every other on the front. Tires and brakes are items I never skimp on either. 2 biggest safety items on any vehicle and they tend to get overlooked or replaced with the cheapest money can buy. | ||
| Mikef5000 |
Other than tight financials, is there a reason people keep squared off or worn tires on their bikes? Financials is my excuse. I can usually get a good 2000 miles out of a tire after it becomes square, or low in the center. That's a lot of miles to throw away. I don't consider squared tires a safety risk. Bald or corded tires, yes, but just because it's squared and doesn't handle as well as it could, doesn't mean it won't work perfectly fine as a commuter tire. The traction's there if I need to pull an emergency maneuver. | ||
| Uly_man |
If a tyre is legal its fine. Its not unsafe squared off it just may feel a little strange in the bends. I wish people would get a grip about bikes. They are nothing like cars, trucks, ICBMs or your next doors dog. | ||
| Etennuly |
I have the 6mm rotor and cannot be happier with it. I have been running the Lyndall Gold pads and not had a problem with fade, but that comes with the 'everybody rides differently' program. I could clean my OEM pads and rotor with brake clean on a rag and it would work fine for a couple hundred miles at a time. | ||
| Billy_bee |
Regarding the Gold pads and fade: I was thinking about this as I was riding today. That rotor cools so well that I think what I experience is extra effort to get the to bite in the initial few revolutions where they get some heat back in them. I rode a little harder today and found if I keep heat in them that they will stop better with less effort. The bite is there once the heat builds up. To answer another poster's warning: I did not scuff the pads. In 10 years of auto racing, I never did. I have always found that the pad material is soft enough to mate to a new rotor pretty quickly. I doubt I could do as good a job as the rotor can if they are bedded in thoughtfully. I usually bed them in with several hard stops...usually until I can smell them. Then I put in some gentler stops as they cool. That worked well over a 10-year racing career. What am I missing? bb | ||
| Hughesatron |
I bought a used front rotor off a 1125 on ebay. The bike had about 4,000 miles on it, so I figured it couldn't be that bad. I put it on last night, rode to work this morning and it works fantastically. No more pulsing! It probably wont last as long as the new thicker rotors or a new OEM rotor, but it was a fraction of the cost and seems to work just fine. | ||
| Terrible1one3 |
I think if there is one thing I don't want is a lot of initial bite. Especially in an emergency situation if I might grab a little too much brake and lock the front wheel. A good progressive pad I think is much better. You get what you squeeze. If you squeeze lightly, light braking, if you squeeze hard you get hard braking. That's my opinion though and why I like the Lyndall Golds. | ||
| Motoroilmccall |
How are you guys lifting the front end? Just out of curiosity because I was thinking ratchet strap around the bars/tree and using my gantry crane to lift the front end off the ground to pull the front wheel. I've had a new rotor sitting in my garage for a year now, just never put it on. Got the hardware kit for it too... | ||
| Portero72 |
Motor- Pretty sure I am gonna get flamed for this, but I just use my car jack under the forward jacking point of the muffler. 'Maybe' even a 1 inch thick board under the side stand to level it out. Only needs to come up off the ground an inch or so. Has worked for me just fine a few times. Just get your dirty work done(axle bolts, loosened, etc.) before you get it off the ground. | ||
| Rwven |
Portero72, that works for me too. I've also removed the rear wheel using the rear jacking point. I usually tie the sidestand off to something just to be sure it doesn't fold up on me. | ||
| Etennuly |
On my '06 Uly X I use a standard 8" cement block with a 3/4" board on it, under the front or rear of the muffler. I just tilt the bike up on the stand and push the board under it, on the block. That 6mm rotor is so good that after riding last Saturday, I want to say.....what brake? I never thought about it once, I simply used it to what should be called normal. With my stock one HD saw the problem but deemed it normal without fixing it. | ||
| Yo_barry |
Re: Lifting the motorcycle... I cut out these blocks so I could use my ATV lift under both jacking points. I was surprised how stable it was, but I used tie downs anyway. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/159410.html | ||
| Portero72 |
Rwven- Glad I am not the only one doing this. Used the rear jack point for belt replacement. Actually felt quite stable. |
