Author |
Message |
Titusand
| Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2012 - 04:55 pm: |
|
I have the service manual for the P3, but how doable is this project for someone who hasn't done the fork oil service before? How much time to do it as a first time project, would you say? |
Swampy
| Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2012 - 06:30 pm: |
|
It will not take very long at all. If in doubt plan on an all weekend job and start Saturday morning bright and early. You should be riding by that afternoon. It is really simple if you are not changing seals. The hardest part is removing the top caps, it would benefit you to have another person to either hold the cap down while you remove the clip. The hardest part is finding a way ot holding the front end up to remove the front tire. Good luck |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Tuesday, February 14, 2012 - 10:53 pm: |
|
Question: How much work on motorcycles or cars have you done in general? Important: DO NOT LOSE THE STOPPER RINGS AKA SNAP RINGS AKA CIRCLIPS.You will have a very hard time getting a replacement. You couldnt even get them from Buell 5 years before they stopped making the Blast. Almost everyone who has ever done any kind of fork work has forgotten to support the front end when they remove the fork plugs (the things that hold the springs in). Sooner or later it happens to everyone. But the stop rings are small and fly easily and are really tough to find on the floor. Because of the circlips and this being your first time, get a helper. It can be easily done solo, but I wouldnt chance it just because of the circlips alone. Its not hard, just a little involved is all. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 01:54 am: |
|
Usually I use small needle nose vice grips, a jewelers screwdriver, and a 4" metal c clamp - after the wheel is either off or off ground, the front end extended/off ground - engine cherry picker ideal - apply c-clamp to middle of top and under top tree, bring top down about a 1/8th inch of clearance from under clip. Pull and pry clip out, put a side, slowly release c clamp, rest according the book - lol EZ |
Titusand
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 02:02 am: |
|
My mechanical experience with cars is rather extensive. I have done or do most of the work on my three cars that does not generally require a lift, e.g. head gasket changes, valve adjustments, replacing pumps, alternators, wiring, brakes, etc. I plan on buying this type of stand for the job: http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle-race-stand .htm The manual shows two special tools. One is to hold up each side of the fork while removing the cap, and the other is an install tool. I plan on making a tool to hold the fork up. What about this install tool? Is in necessary? |
Titusand
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 02:05 am: |
|
As for working on motorcycles, I am a new rider, not even 5,000 miles yet. I have only changed the crankcase & tranny oils on the Blast. |
Titusand
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 02:12 am: |
|
There is no sign of wear or leaking with the forks, and it being a 2004 model, even with only 4,500 miles on it, I'm thinking now would be an excellent time to do it. So, given that situation, keeping the original seals may be acceptable? |
Cgent
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 04:35 pm: |
|
Heck ... at only 4,500 miles I wouldn't touch them, unless you suspect a problem. My BLAST! is a 2002 and the forks, tubes, and seals look like brand new. Maybe around 10-15 thousand I'll rebuild. |
Titusand
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 05:34 pm: |
|
That settles it for me... I'll wait at least another season. Thanks. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, February 15, 2012 - 10:50 pm: |
|
That stand will do just fine. No special tools are needed to change the fork oil. Replacing seals that arent bad is often a bad idea. If you've done extensive work on cars, the fork oil will be easy. Just heed my warning about the circlips. But you're right, wait until next season. At that point you might want to upgrade things just a little |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2012 - 11:41 am: |
|
The most important thing on changing the fork oil is HOW MUCH TO PUT BACK IN ??? Never had any water get in my forks, so this is what "i" did ... Borrowed a couple of the wifes measuring cups when she was not looking ... Turned each fork up side down(springs out) and pumped each into each's measuring cup ... Then "i" hung each up side down and let them drain over night ... The next day "i" pumped them again to get any left over fluid out ... The drip measuring cup that had the most fluid in it was the amount of fluid "i" put back in each fork ... If you want to increase the PRELOAD and slow the COMPRESSION, well that is another FORK TUNING "INFO" thing ... |
Titusand
| Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2012 - 11:46 am: |
|
The manual states 9.2 oz. for each side. |
Buellistic
| Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2012 - 12:09 pm: |
|
Titusand: "SO", that means you are going to completely disassemble both forks, correct ??? |
Titusand
| Posted on Thursday, February 16, 2012 - 03:37 pm: |
|
I will do that, but I think I'll wait another year. |
|