| Author | Message | ||
     Benm2 |
Do any of the racer-types out there know how long a Buell will run total-loss? (with no lights, of course) | ||
| Mikej |
Depends on your coil(s) to some extent, hot coil(s) lead(s) to less run time (from what I've been told, added to keep me out of trouble). | ||
| Racerx1 |
Ben, My carb S1 will go nearly an entire race weekend with the stock battery. Although its completely possible, I wouldn't run a road race EFI bike total loss unless you really keep up on the battery or have multiple batteries available just because the bikes are calibrated at 14 volts or so...you start relying on voltage compensation tables when you drop below that. | ||
| Hobanbrothers |
Allot of variables there. We have run bikes with no charging systems on FI and carbed. But, do you have a stock starting system, how long will your races be, how many hassles are you preparred to deal with. It would be easier to know what type of racing you plan on doing with which bike and I should be able to give you pitfalls and benefits to either way. Keep me posted... | ||
| Benm2 |
Bike is carbed, and will stay that way (unless I win lottery & can buy Motec unit for fun). Currently, I run a very small battery, about half the size of the stocker. It <sometimes> will start the bike, if its warm. I have a "portable charger" that I use for starting, which is a deep cycle battery with a built in trickle charger (Home depot...) The bike will (at least) see track days, and may (in the future) see racing, assuming I can overcome turn one syndrome. So, why, you ask? Because I can, and I can't stop myself. I want to pull the starter & the charging system for the weight reduction. I have napkin-plans for a roller-bed rear wheel Briggs & Stratton starter, so that's covered. It seems more & more likely that the bike won't see street time again, so I'll have recharge time between "sessions". I'm just trying to get a feel for how long the ignition will run. | ||
| Hobanbrothers |
We run a similiar batt YTX5 sealed unit and just use a batt tender as soon as bikes come in off the track, never failed uas yet. Actually a very nice starter system is something we made up out of a gutted starter, just using the pinion (and housing) to engage on the ring gear and then a wobble shaft ext onto another starter sytem with batt. It has worked very well for the last 5 years. It works similiar to drag racing starters. I could snap some photos if you wish, a 1 man operation really becomes tricky and the roller gig would really have to move. Regardless, with a carb, I know some guys that have used a similiar system for 1/2 hour races and not created a problem. I guess the biggest thing there is I would use a high quality batt, anything in the YTX line and you would be good for 1/2 hr and you must take starter out of the equation as it draws too deeply at the begining of your session. You could stay with the remote battery and just hook up a quick disconnect so it draws off remote battery, we did that one year for Daytona, actually I think we used a battery jumper pack. Hope that helps... | ||
| Benm2 |
I use a ytx7, so it should be fine. Thanks! What do you brace the starter against? Sure, photos would be great! thanks again, Ben | ||
| Benm2 |
um, hobanbrothers, pictures? Please?...... | ||
| Hobanbrothers |
I tried yesterday, but photo was too big and it got kicked out, phone rang and it was off to the races again! I will try to upload first, and if that works I will explain later...  I hope that worked, now... We welded on old extension end onto for starter (connected to batt) where the pinion gear typically goes. From there we took aluminum tubing to make a shroud and inserted a wobble shaft onto newly created ext end. Now you take a junk starter and gut it, go to your HD dealer and ask them to save one as they should have a ton... You utilize the end that bolts to back of primary, weld any old socket to shaft that holds pinion drive and that will mate with wobble extension you have on the portable starter. Press together and waa laa, of course it is a little more involved, but I hope you get the idea?? | ||
| Benm2 |
Many thanks! Do you push in the gear with the hand held starter, or did you leave the solenoid? | ||
| Hobanbrothers |
The solenoid is left intact with the starter on the hand held, but you do push the whole unit in to engage the pinion on to the starter ring gear to insure positive engagement. When you hit the starter button (on hand held) it does move the hand held back a bit(what, an inch or so), so I guess in answer to your question...yes & yes |
