Author |
Message |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 10:34 pm: |
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Can you feel it? That's what she said??? No, feels smooth as glass, just as the rest of the bore does. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 10:35 pm: |
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sorry for the threadjack No worries - this thread has gone sufficiently off course at this point, lol |
Foximus
| Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 11:05 pm: |
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Just so you know... small scuffing on the piston crown like that may raise the piston temperature up to 5%-10%. If you have the ability to really polish it, you should. the closer to a mirror finish you can get the cooler the piston will remain. I suggest some 400-500 grit wet sand paper, then a polishing wheel with rouge. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 11:40 pm: |
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Fox - I was concerned about removing too much material. Would this be a concern? |
Foximus
| Posted on Friday, December 16, 2011 - 11:49 pm: |
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whatever you removed already will be 85% of the mass removed.... and if you only used a *BRASS* wire wheel, then you'll be fine. 400 grit wet paper is about the same consistency as construction paper.... lol So I guess that's kinda like Red asking Andy Dufrane about a rock hammer.... |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 01:48 am: |
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Sounds good - I'll shine them up tomorrow. |
Foximus
| Posted on Saturday, December 17, 2011 - 03:25 am: |
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and again... dont think that the marks are BAD... they come pock marked as shit OEM. But the more mirror finish they are, the cooler your pistons will run. |
Pammy
| Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 11:10 am: |
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Mark, I recommend replacing your valve springs. One exhaust valve was truly pounded. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 01:11 pm: |
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One exhaust valve was truly pounded. Can you elaborate on this? Was the tip pounded? Should I be concerned about rockers and/or pushrods? I'm having a hard time understanding why the innards of this engine seem so whooped after 22kmi... In other news, the pistons are shined real nice. I also took the time to polish the billet motor mount, looks much nicer without all of the CNC machine marks in it. This weekend I'll be opening up the gear case and replacing the oil pump drive gear. I WANT MY BABY BACK!!! |
Buellistic
| Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 02:25 pm: |
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Xl1200r: Let PAMMY and her crew replace all your valves, valves, colars/keepers !!! |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 03:13 pm: |
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I concur. Valves are cheaper than skilled labor; it's already opened up and adding the new parts now makes more sense than waiting for a catastrophic failure. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 03:52 pm: |
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Valves and guides are all good. Just spoke with Pammy and I'm getting a new set of springs with keepers and retainers. |
Pammy
| Posted on Wednesday, December 21, 2011 - 05:29 pm: |
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Mark, unfortunately UPS ran early today so it will be tomorrow when your heads go out. It took a bit of machining to repair the damage on one of the valves, as I explained to Mark. I can only imagine that his springs were whipped. He made an executive decision to go with some new units. Totally his decision(and smarter), I offered a cheaper solution. I don't want it to seem that I am nickel-ing and dime-ing, because I am not. He will have a great start when he recieves his parts. A fabulous winter project....for those of you that actually have winter. Ha Ha |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Thursday, December 22, 2011 - 09:47 am: |
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No promlemo - I'll be lucky if I can get the oil pump gear in this weekend, so there's no rush on getting the heads back just yet. Plus I still need to figure out how I'm going to support the stock airbox with the billet mount, which doesn't have the little arm for it. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, December 23, 2011 - 09:28 pm: |
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Not in a terribly good mood... Took the gearcase cover off tonight to do the oil pump drive gear and the job has just been fighting me the whole way. I'm not really happy with my FSM at the moment. I'm fairly certain that I didn't have to remove the cam sensor to do this job, and quite frankly the whole thing was a b!tch. I have NO idea how I'm going to get that wiring back in place - it was jammed so tight under the starter... BTW - can anyone tell me what the hose is in the 90* fitting that goes into the cam cover right about where the bushing is for the rear exhaust cam? My FSM makes no mention of it. The oiling system diagram makes it seem like it's an oil passage, but it doesn't seem to be in the right place and the hose is dry inside. Some kind of breather line? And why on earth was the hose clamp so friggin hard to get off? Those harley clamps usually pop right off for me. At a stand still for the time being - seems I don't have the required 15/16" deep well socket to get the nut off. (Message edited by xl1200r on December 23, 2011) |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2011 - 11:54 am: |
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Got my heads back! Looking good, looking good. Reassembly to start after the new year. Next step is getting the gear case closed up and getting the bores measured up. |
Fast1075
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2011 - 12:49 pm: |
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I hope you didn't wire brush the ring lands. If you did, you need new pistons. If you didn't, good...be sure to check the ring side clearance. If it is too loose it will oil like hell. You made a good choice sending the heads to Cycle Rama. They are top notch. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2011 - 01:09 pm: |
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I hope you didn't wire brush the ring lands. No no no... all they got was some soapy water with a soft nylon brush to make sure the oil passages were clear. ring side clearance Elaborate? |
Pammy
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2011 - 04:11 pm: |
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Ring to land clearance. Too big you'll get flex and rotation, too small you'll get sticking. (Message edited by pammy on December 29, 2011) |
Pammy
| Posted on Thursday, December 29, 2011 - 04:12 pm: |
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Thanks Harry, we try our best. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 11:14 am: |
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Is this vertical clearnace in the lands? Or between the inside edge of the ring and inside of the ring land? |
Pammy
| Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 02:22 pm: |
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vertical, but if you taped that part off before you commenced to machining...you should be golden. |
Pammy
| Posted on Friday, December 30, 2011 - 02:27 pm: |
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check your ring end gap though. I think it's .004(top ring) to .005(second ring) per inch. Make sure to stagger the gaps. |
Claytons4u
| Posted on Tuesday, January 03, 2012 - 04:43 pm: |
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wow what an amazing tale,only found this site 3 days ago and boy am i sold on it. my ride is a 2002 m2 and my problems started the same way, broken front engine mount bolts.i did the drill the hole in the bolt trick then broke the easy out off in the head.my mate,a marine diesel engineer for volvo tore seven strips of sunday off me.long story short we dropped the motor out extracted offending bolt rethreaded head,pulled front barrel off and found a horizontal crack,replaced both barrels, rings and pistons & front isolator reassembled and first test ride lost 4th gear,replaced gear cluster when reassembling found crack in clutch basket housing,replaced that,reassembled.since done about 1000ks when both engine mount bolts sheared.hopefully sorted now thanks to this site check my new thread in knowledge vault. |
Oldog
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 11:31 am: |
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both engine mount bolts sheared WOW, I hope you used the correct bolts the bolts only shear when the preload on the mount is lost... The mounting faces where the head and hanger bolt together MUST BE FLAT AND PARALLEL if not you will get to do it again soon.. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Wednesday, January 04, 2012 - 02:05 pm: |
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Clayton - I read you thread - I'm not sure all of the possible issues were addressed there. I don't think your tie bar is the issue. Oldog hit the nail on the head - make sure you're using the correct Grade 9 bolts. Also check your engine mount for straightness - mine ended up being slightly bent. I jumped for the billet mount - expensive, but seems to be a good fix for these based on others input. I'd suggest the same for you. |
Claytons4u
| Posted on Thursday, January 05, 2012 - 03:07 pm: |
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i don't think they both snapped same time just same ride,a pervious owner must off experinced the same thing but cracked the head casing as the left sitting/right facing head has been allie weilded and retapped.i am using a lower tensil bolt to avoid damaging the head on advice from a follow m2 rider and said volo man.my friendly m2 man was experincing same problem from when bike was new and he has installed top tie and not had issues since,unfortunatly only told me this about 6 months ago,as to faces being square i haven,t smoked for years, no seriously my volo man wouldn't lent anything out of his workshop not 100% right.ride and reside in new zealand so as stated its graet to be able to bounce issues like this to make sure ones on the right track. |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Friday, January 06, 2012 - 11:20 am: |
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I'd just use the stronger bolt - I'm not sure what else could break that isn't already broken at this point... |
Brinnutz
| Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 12:13 pm: |
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Mark, Here's a billet mount that won't break the bank by a fellow in the UK. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1996-98-Buell-S1-S1W-S3-M2 -Billet-Engine-Mount-Billet-Brain-16271-97Y-/20070 2211829?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&h ash=item2ebac8b6f5 |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Wednesday, January 18, 2012 - 12:51 pm: |
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Thanks, Wilson, but I already got (and polished) the NHRS mount from American Sport Bike. Work has mostly stalled - just need to get to the machinist to measure the bores and see if we're punching them out or not. |