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Message |
Jjcool
| Posted on Tuesday, December 06, 2011 - 03:12 pm: |
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So i posted on the buellforums site and i can't get to it anymore. Did it go down? I'll post my engine leak pictures here soon cuz i need help on how to change the gaskets... Thanks |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Friday, December 09, 2011 - 11:50 pm: |
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Welcome Jjcool!? |
Wrong_turn_rider
| Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 07:01 pm: |
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Yep, the "other" forum is having issues, it will all work out one way or the other ... I think leaks are the way of the blast, several on mine that I will "try" to work out ... Do you have a factory shop manual??? Hard to live without one ... |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 08:06 pm: |
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Leaks are optional. Dont go thinking its a Harley so it must leak. My Blast doesnt leak. My old Sportster didnt either. |
Sycho
| Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 09:09 pm: |
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Erik, mine is still leaking fluid from somewhere. Is it true what you said about a taste difference between the fluids? And I thought I saw somewhere on here about somebody having a leak and figuring out it was due to the starter being loose. Of course the only way to tighten it, is to remove the primary cover...which means I gotta remove the dreaded Y-frame again..ARRGH! |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 09:24 pm: |
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Yes it is true about the taste being different, though I didnt think anyone would actually take me up on it! (though I really cant describe the difference, but its definitely there. Engine oil does tend to be on the alkaline side, where trans/primary tends to be on the acidic side-there, I tried!). You could also pick very different colours for fluids and that would make it much easier to tell what is leaking. Your best bet is to clean the engine and then be obsessive for watching where the leak comes from (before it gets spread around). Hey, we should definitely go for a ride before Summer's over! Woops My bad. |
Cvc
| Posted on Saturday, December 10, 2011 - 10:19 pm: |
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Hey while you have the Y frame off hit your local sheet metal shop and get some 3/8 coupling nuts they're about one inch long and 9/16 on the outside you can then use a wrench to remove and install the foot peg assembly in about ten minutes |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 01:58 am: |
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Home depot has them, just look for the threaded rod across from the nuts and bolts section. |
Sycho
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 03:42 am: |
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Thanks guys I'll look into that. And no I haven't tasted yet but am tempted, lol. I did the massive cleaning once already but have given up and since we are in our winter (rainy season) I figured I might dig into it once again. |
Jjcool
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 03:56 am: |
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Thanks for the replies. Yeah i just got updated on it. I had a thread on there with pics and stuff but seems to be gone. As soon as i get some time ill post some pics of whats going on. Basically I've got an oil leak at the -cylinder base seal -base gasket for pushrod cover -O-ring gasket leak on pushrod cover up top Transmission oil leak -Seems like the shifter is leaking -the primary adjust might also be leaking. I guess I wanted to get a break down of how much work all that was gonna take to change, any specific/strange tools i would need to do it, and maybe any other tips you guys had. @wrong turn rider: yes i do have a manual so i was planning on following that as much as possible Also, since i never really gave an intro: I'm going to school in So-Cal and just got this bike a few months ago. Has 23K miles on it (so she's been taken around!) Is 2002 (although my title says 2003) Ive also got a 1st gear problem that, after doing some research on here about it, seems to be due to first gear shifter dogs being worn. I'll ask about that one another time haha. right now i just wanna stop the leaking! |
Johneblast
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 10:01 am: |
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While your in there replacing gaskets, you may as well address the shifter dawg issue. No sense replacing a gasket only to have to tear down again. I would get all the O-rings and gaskets you think you will need. Most of them come in a kit, but you will need to order some individually I believe. This bike is fun to work on because it is simple. Enjoy! |
Ezblast
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 12:45 pm: |
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Nows the time for your 515cc kit! EZ |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 02:05 pm: |
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Time for the right 515 kit! Or at least a high comp piston will net you almost as much gain. If you've got the money, a new piston and rings would do wonders for your engine and oil consumption since you've got to pull the head and cylinder anyway. Doing the head would be nice too! Shifter seal and primary adjuster bolt leak fixes are easy. Just be sure everything is actually leaking and not just minor seepage from age, mileage and non cleaning. No point in fixing it if it aint broke. Most of the tools are normal except you'll need some low profile allens for the top rocker cover. Motion Pro makes a special tool, but allen bits (like the kind an impact driver uses) and a wrench work just fine. XB, Sportster and Blast gasket kits are virtually identical and often you can get way more than you need in a kit for less $$ than pricing out the gaskets separately (Sportster uses different pushrod tubes, but the top o-rings will be the same. Late 2008-2011 XB/P3 kits may use different top rocker gaskets, but they might, as often is the case, include both styles. Depends on what you need). Try to do everything in one weekend as it will make reassembly more familiar. But dont tackle too much at once either (example: leave the primary repair for a separate time). If you separate the repairs out, it will make finding any problems you create easier to trace. It will also be less overwhelming. If you decide to renew the piston and rings, you can find a spare cylinder cheap and have it bored, honed and piston and rings fitted, ready to go as soon as you pull the old one off. XB, Blast and most later Sportster cylinders are interchangeable or you can just buy the 515 kit! Blast head is Blast only. *Glendale HD/Buell was/is very involved in Buell (and esp. Blast) racing. They also were a Badweb sponsor. Ernie Snair might be able to help you out with Blast parts locally or point you in the right direction. (Ernie is in new bike sales so keep that in mind, he's not the parts guy. He is almost singlehandedly responsible for Blast racing at Willow Springs. And he's a good guy.
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Jjcool
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 03:39 pm: |
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mmm. lots of great info. Anyone know where i can get a gasket set? I've done some searches but can't seem to find whole engine sets for blasts. I actually already got a few from HD like an O-ring, Base gasket for both cylinder and pushrod cover, and i think a shifter seal. not sure. ill post pics of that soon too... sry i can't give you guys too much just yet, I'm studying for finals... this is just a break so i don't go crazy ! lol |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 04:52 pm: |
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ebay. If you need a top end kit, Sportster and XB kits are the same. I'm pretty sure whole engine XB kits will work too (but you'll have an extra cylinder)! It should be noted that kits are regularly updated and I think they're on the 7 or 8th edition at least. Early kits, if you come across one, might only have the paper rocker cover gaskets which will be no good. Later gasket kits have the rubberized metal gaskets. Later kits also eliminate the cylinder head dowel o-rings. Cylinder head and base gaskets can run from a couple bucks to over $50!!! So unless its a factory gasket, do a little research before you spend big bucks on an expensive gasket you dont need. 17036-91 is the same number for XB's and Blasts (and its a 1991 Sportster number) through 2008 except there will be a suffix letter denoting the update of the kit IE: 17036-91A. Most of the part numbers work that way. I know this is really a lot of unnecessary confusing information. Its just easier and cheaper to find XB/Sportster gaskets. American Sport Bike should probably have gaskets too, but they may not be hip to what actually fits the Blast. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Sunday, December 11, 2011 - 06:43 pm: |
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Torquing the head: Follow the repair manual cylinder head torque sequence and directions except use these modified torque specs and sequence: 40 ftlbs total. Start at 15 ft lbs then go up 5's to 40ft lbs. The manuals method says "turn the bolts an additional 80-90 degrees" for the final torque. I find this a little too much up to interpretation and follow the above from respected engine builders. Its right on, works, no guesswork and you can always double check the torque. |
Jjcool
| Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 08:56 pm: |
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Alright so heres a few pics First, some pics of the cleaned up engine: http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/166 989_656452064587_194602082_33637729_789220144_n.jp g http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/315 061_656452104507_194602082_33637731_1949508134_n.j pg http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/383 176_656452154407_194602082_33637733_564413494_n.jp g http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/317 154_656452239237_194602082_33637736_2072405109_n.j pg http://a6.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386 213_656452309097_194602082_33637738_917984801_n.jp g http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386 711_656452344027_194602082_33637739_1447162716_n.j pg http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/385 070_656452403907_194602082_33637741_595003309_n.jp g NOW pics of the leaks http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/381 805_653074722807_194602082_33623123_155013357_n.jp g http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/384 401_653074807637_194602082_33623125_1008749830_n.j pg http://a8.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/310 217_653074977297_194602082_33623129_1894344264_n.j pg http://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/377 662_653075047157_194602082_33623130_1199316980_n.j pg http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/373 781_653075087077_194602082_33623131_201723315_n.jp g http://hphotos-iad1.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/379946_ 653075131987_194602082_33623132_618020733_n.jpghttp://a3.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/311 388_656452872967_194602082_33637760_535349663_n.jp ghttp://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc7/391 798_657380019957_194602082_33644369_139709286_n.jp ghttp://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386 035_657380189617_194602082_33644373_696088264_n.jp ghttp://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/386 035_657380189617_194602082_33644373_696088264_n.jp g |
Jjcool
| Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 08:58 pm: |
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I was thinking 20 & 23 on here? http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/387 395_657382210567_194602082_33644380_35093349_n.jpg And 7 on here? http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/384 478_657382245497_194602082_33644381_2049591520_n.j pg As of now I HAVE -a HD cylinder base gasket (#7) -O rind (#23) -pushrod cover base gasket (#20) (Message edited by jjcool on December 12, 2011) |
Jjcool
| Posted on Monday, December 12, 2011 - 09:05 pm: |
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@gearhead Thanks for all that info. I'm guessing that a 'normal' set of tools includes a torque wrench lol. sounds good. I'll probably stick to the oil leaks right now. I like working on stuff so if i wanted to upgrade and adjust stuff i can do that later. plus, the income of a student doesn't really allow me to do that just yet haha.(although I would freakin LOVE to!) Do you think i should still look into a set of gaskets? Or will this cover most of the big ones for the leaking? The Oring area is getting really bad. Guess the cold compresses the metal cuz if i leave it out at night, it will drip on the exhaust (and smoke) when i let it warm up the next morning. |
Ezblast
| Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 12:15 am: |
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all depends what year your bike is - what year is it? EZ (Message edited by ezblast on December 13, 2011) |
Jjcool
| Posted on Tuesday, December 13, 2011 - 01:30 am: |
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2002 (july i think?) on the sticker on the bike under the handle bars) 2003 on paper |
Ezblast
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 12:40 am: |
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You have the un-reusable paper gaskets, you will have to put in a whole fresh set - might as well get a complete set. EZ |
Jjcool
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 01:12 am: |
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difference between 17036-91A and this one: https://www.ironmachine.com/product_info.php?produ cts_id=902&osCsid=8cuv7ufjbogqs2f89nq5r2hnn2 |
Jjcool
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 03:12 pm: |
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Alright then. Heres what I've been looking into. I don't really know what all comes with these kits so what do you guys think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1252-New-Buell-Gaskets-Kit s-17055-00Y-17054-00Y-/320594172313?item=320594172 313&vxp=mtr#ht_500wt_1359 http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARLEY-BUELL-BLAST-GASKET- KIT-SET-17054-00Y-NEW-/110759621524#ht_748wt_1110 I think i get confused with all the gaskets and what comes with what kit this help at all? http://www.narleychoppers.com/media/87/a20791a1291 cf0f22e647a_l.jpg |
Johneblast
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 04:18 pm: |
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I got the 17036-91A kit which is for a XL. It's a rocker cover kit that comes with the head gasket and more. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 08:13 pm: |
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Its also the same number for an XB and Blast! You got the right kit |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 08:15 pm: |
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FWIW: 2002 models will use either paper or metal. Paper for earlier 2002 models, metal for late. I own 2 2002 models and both came with metal gaskets. |
Jjcool
| Posted on Wednesday, December 14, 2011 - 10:48 pm: |
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so I guess i should get it just in case. is $100 a good deal for that kit? |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 12:41 am: |
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No. Thats highway robbery. GASKET KIT, ROCKER COVER, XL 17036-91A Price $60.95 Thats the price for a factory kit from HD. A 'kit' from e-bay should be almost half that. |
Gearheaderiko
| Posted on Thursday, December 15, 2011 - 12:46 am: |
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The 17036-91A doesnt list any other gaskets that the rocker cover gaskets. Are you buying a special kit made up to include other gaskets? I'm pretty sure I never spent more than $50 for a top end kit including the cylinder head and base gaskets (and yes, that would be a deal). |