| Author | Message | ||
     Rwcfrank |
I recently purchased some windshield brackets from Palmer Products. I know there are competitors for the product and I can't attest to any other products that claim similar results. My point is that the bike has been transformed. I cannot describe how much quieter and more comfortable the bike is with the wind being deflected away. For years I just couldn't get past how the brackets altered the lines of what I think is one of the best looking motorcycles out there. I tried other screens, attachments and even popped for a bigger buck helmet with some level of improvement but still a lot of buffeting and noise. Right now we are experiencing decade strong winds in CA and the bike is like a dream. SO much more comfortable, quiet and way less fatiguing on the highway. So if you have been indecisive I say give this concept a try I think the results are often understated. BTW, in addition to the brackets I am running a Zero Gravity plus 4" | ||
| Xaman |
How tall are you, and are you running the windshield all the way up and out? I've got a plus 4 windshield and am thinking it doesn't seem to be much (if at all) better than no shield. With the plus 4 the wind hits me hard in the upper chest and throat area. I'm 6'2", kind of long armed, running standard handle bars. Thanks for the report. (Message edited by Xaman on December 03, 2011) | ||
| Rwcfrank |
I am six feet even and the screen is about about 3/4 of the way and flat. The wind seems to just glance off the helmet above the visor. I ran it higher today and although the wind was less I felt a tad more buffeting so I will move it back down.I recommend you give them a try, you will be pleased I'm sure. | ||
| Simond |
What speeds are you cruising at? I worry about larger handlebar mounted screens and the effect they can have on stability at speed or on a windy day. I find that the oe setup is good until about 80/85mph - the breeze hits me in the chest - but above that it gets a bit wobbly and I have to make a very conscious effort to lean forward and make sure I'm not yanking on the bars. No real problem - it's just that the cruising sweet spot is a bit lower than other Buells I've owned. The scenery looks better that way anyway but it can be frustrating if you are late for a ferry! | ||
| Rwcfrank |
I move pretty fast, my highway speed is around 80-85 with spurts up to 90 still great! | ||
| Rodclement |
Glad to hear this! I have my palmer stuff on the way now! I am glad I made the right decision on this! Also dealing with the Palmers is a joy! Rod | ||
| Tipsymcstagger |
I must be in the minority but at 6'1", the only position I've found that makes a noticeable reduction in buffeting is fully forward and fully up. Unfortunately, in this position, the screen vibrates uncontrollably. So much so, I thought cracks would develop in a matter of hours if not readjusted. I thought I'd get the bike down to FL from NYC by now but haven't had the chance. If I do, I'll be removing the Palmer and going with no windshield. Tipsy | ||
| Bike_pilot |
I ran with no windshield for a while and so far like that best, though I'll need lower bars to make it work well. I'm not quite done trying different setups on the mad stad though. Currently I haven't come up with an arrangement with the MS bracket and MS 18" screen that doesn't cause some sort of buffeting (I'm sorta picky about buffeting so ymmv). I'm 5'10" and have the taller '06 seat fitted. Oddly the worst so far for me is all the way up and forward. Titled all the way back seems quite an improvement, but not all the way, I've tried it back and all the way down, back and middle and back and all the way up and can't decide which works best of those three. All three are totally tolerable for commuting (city) and are annoying only at higher speeds (65+ ish). Tipsymcstagger, I wonder if an aluminum flyscreen would solve your screen vibration issues? | ||
| Ejbeert |
bike pilot I've got an 06 with original seat mad stad brackets and I installed memphis shades lowers. I like this set up with the lowers best. mad stad adjusted forward and down and or forward and half way up small cali sci shield or 20 inch spider. I think the lowers made the difference 3/4 hjc helmet no face shield no problem seldom over 80 but regularly over 70 5'11" on a good day +1 on aluminum plate I think national cycle or memphis shades makes braces that attach shield to handle bar cross brace. I think some one in this forum has used them. I do not as yet feel I need that though. | ||
| Bike_pilot |
Interesting, thanks! | ||
| Rwcfrank |
I only get a little extra vibration during cold idle but the rest of the time its the same as stock | ||
| Motorbike |
I made a stainless steel reinforcement plate that fits behind the flyscreen to cut down on windshield vibration. I really don't care for the look of braces running to the bars and this is completely hidden. Two years of use so far and it works great. I have to admit, the windshield does vibrate at idle but I don't think it will crack anything. Thanks. Reinforcement plate:  No handlebar braces:  | ||
| Rodclement |
I'd buy one of those from you, send me a price! Rod | ||
| Motorbike |
Rodclement, I will have to see I if kept my cardboard template from when I made this piece. If so, I might be able to help you out. The problem is, I am really strapped for time right now and you would probably have to wait a while to get the actual part. (Kinda like ordering Buell parts from a dealer) I will be more than happy to explain how to do it though if that would be any help to you? I have more free time here at work than I do at home! 1.) Make cardboard template. (Do not run it all the way out to the edge of the plastic or the flyscreen will not fit as it is supposed to.) 2.) Cut piece from stainless (or regular sheet metal and paint it). 3.) Form curve on metal to match inside of flyscreen. 4.) Tape in place. 5.) Mark hole location precisely and drill. (You will need a good quality, sharp bit if you make this from stainless.) 6.) Install windshield brackets following instructions with Palmer Brackets. 7.) Cut excess bolt threads off right down to the ny-lock nut. 8.) Place thin rubber pads on console in area where the nut/bolt may rub. (Not much clearance in this area.) 9.) Install flyscreen/windshield assembly. 10.) Go for a ride. Also, I have a buddy that has a well equipped metal shop so once I made the template, I was able to use his 8'shear to cut it out. Really not hard to do this if you know someone that has the right tools. Thanks. (Message edited by motorbike on December 06, 2011) | ||
| Jomartijr |
What gauge stainless? And compliments on professional looking result. | ||
| Rwcfrank |
That does look great. I have a template made and was going to do the same thing in 040 t-6 aluminum sheet. I may still try it but the shaking is no worse than stock if you follow Palmers directions and cinch everything properly. Also, a piece of good foam weather stripping across the top of the number plate where the rubber pads go does wonders for sealing the gap and keeping light from shining through the cracks. | ||
| Motorbike |
I don't exactly remember the gauge of stainless but I think it was 16. It was plenty stiff. Doesn't take much to be stronger than just the plastic flyscreen. Aluminum would probably work just as well and would obviously be lighter. Hey, I just figured out why I don't do very good wheelies! Maybe I should add weight to the trunk to counter-balance the plate? Also, I forgot to mention, I did put a piece of foam weatherstrip along the top, just as Rwcfrank stated. If you don't, there will be a slight gap at the top, between the flyscreen and console. |
