| Author | Message | ||
     Motorbike |
I have 9,200 miles on my 08 XT and am planning ahead for my 10,000 mile service, which includes a fork oil change. I may just run it until I store it again next fall and it will probably have 13-14,000 on it by then but I want to do this while the bike is down, not during our riding season. (Yes, I know some of you ride year-round). Since the forks on the XT are completely different than the X, can someone who has done their own fork oil change on an XT please give me a few pointers? I am mechanically inclined but have never had forks apart on any of my bikes. The Jap bikes I used to own were very easy, pull the little plug, pump oil out, refill. These forks are inverted so it appears to be much more complex as shown in my service manual. Since the oil level needs to be measured with the spring removed, what did you use for a spring compressor? What special tools do I need to do this job 100% myself? Any special fork oil recommendations or do I need to use H-D type E? Any other special notes so I don't wish I hadn't started this project? Pics would be great, if you have any! Thanks much! | ||
| Whisperstealth |
Okay, now have 30K and still need to do a fork service. hoping to do it this winter even though I ride year round. So I too am interested in pics and step by directions! Thanks! | ||
| Bike_pilot |
They are actually Japanese forks and about the same as any 90s era Japanese inverted fork (e.g., the forks on my TLS). Sorta complicated, but not impossible. I'll probably do mine within the next month or two, I'll try and take pics along the way for you. The three things I've seen folks screw up on forks generally (not buells specifically, but similar foks) the most are messing up the cartridge rod height, nicking the seal on install so that they leak right off and not setting the oil level properly. All the showa forks I've worked on from the past couple of decades take 5wt cartridge fork oil, but I think e-type is a bit more than 5wt. Amsoil has a cross reference http://www.amsoil.com/products/streetbikes/oil_cha rt.aspx Golden Spectro shows e-type as being 7wt http://www.spectro-oils.com/pdfs/techsheets/Shock_ Fluids_Comparison_Suspension_Oils_Chart.pdf There's buell fork vids here (not an XT, but these are all put together in a similar way) http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-Firebo lt-XB12-XB9/Fork-Oil-Change-1 Note that fork oil weights listed on the bottle don't have a huge amount to do with how thick the oil actually is. Check out the GS chart and you'll see. Main thing is to pick one brand oil and stick with it so you don't have to re-tune the suspension every year when you service the forks/shock. | ||
| Motorbike |
Bike pilot, thank you. I am looking forward to your pics and tutorial! It would probably be very easy to change the fork oil if it weren't for the fact that the spring needs to be removed. Not sure why I am hesitant, I have been turning wrenches since I was little...er, young anyway. | ||
| Swampy |
Once you get into it it is pretty easy and you will wonder why you fretted over it for so long. All the tools can be home made. I made a tube holder out of a couple of notched 2X4s and screwed one to the bench and clamped the fork with a couple of C clamps. Other tools can be improvised also. Becareful with resetting the damper rod adjustment. | ||
| Motorbike |
Be careful with resetting the damper rod adjustment. Can you elaborate on this a little when you have time please? I probably won't be doing this project for a while but would really like to be prepared when I do it. I don't think it will hurt anything on my bike to run it a little farther than 10K miles on the fork oil. I never go off road (XT) and have only ridden it in a light rain once. Yeah, I baby this bike, ride it hard but don't abuse it. I doubt the fork oil has been overworked. Thanks. | ||
| Swampy |
When you disconnect the damper rod if you do not adjust it correctly you will not be able to get a full range of adjustment. When you take it apart to remove the spring you can change the overall length causing a limit to how far you can turn the adjusting screw when you put it all back together. There are instructions in the manual on how to get them back to spec. Not hard to do but pay attention when you take it apart and put it back together again. I don't have it memorized because I have not done it enough to memorize the proceedure, but it is in the manual. | ||
| Electraglider_1997 |
I think it is a seven step process that is very easy to accomplish. No-brainer. | ||
| Uly_man |
Its nothing to do with this but? Flush your front brake fluid as well while your at it. I do it on most bikes but I notice a much better feel on the front with the Buell. I only costs a few bucks as well. | ||
| Motorbike |
Uly_man, funny you should mention that. I was planning to stop and pick up a bottle of DOT 4 fluid on my way home tonight for just that reason! I am planning to change both, front and rear, brake fluids. Thanks! | ||
| Mark_weiss |
Generic rebound damping screw setting procedure: Before assembling the cap to the damper rod, open (unscrew) the damping screw adjuster until it stops. Close the adjuster the specified number of turns (or clicks) which are supposed to be available for adjustment. Screw the cap onto the damper rod until you can feel the damping needle just lightly seat. Stop here and open the damping screw three turns without letting the cap turn on the damping rod. Hold the cap in place and run the locknut up to the cap and lightly snug. Check the damping screw range of adjustment. All turns/clicks should be available. If not, open the screw a few turns and adjust the cap to allow full range. To add clicks: loosen the cap; to remove clicks:tighten the cap. Whenever adjusting the cap on the damper rod, make absolutely certain that the needle is backed out a few turns. The needle is fragile and if forced into the top of the damper rod might break or distort. Once the proper range is set, make sure that the needle is still open a few turns, fully tighten the lock nut for the fork cap. Do a final check of the needle's range of adjustment before releasing the spring. Following this procedure with both forks insures that both needles have the same setting range. Some forks may have different procedures to index the rebound needles. I have found the above method to work with just about everything. | ||
| Motorbike |
Mark_weiss, thanks for the write-up on the damper setting procedure. I have the service manual which covers both the X and XT in 2 separate sections. What I don't have is any experience in fork disassembly and rebuild. It looks sort of intimidating in the service manual but I hope it all makes sense when I get into it. I hope I can just look back at all my fears and laugh someday,which is usually the case! Thanks. | ||
| Mnrider |
That and you only live about 30 miles from me. I've gone through my fork and you could bring the bike and a six pack of Lienie's over or call with any questions. | ||
| Mark_weiss |
I'll take some photos of the two simple tools that I made for working on cartridge forks. So far, they have worked for the Uly, well as my GSXR, R6, and a set of Ohlins. |
