Author |
Message |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 05:05 pm: |
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I've got a 2002 S3T with the Showa fork and it has about 22kmi on it. I've owned it since it had 11kmi, and I'm assuming that no one has touched the forks on this thing. I have 2 questions: How often do the forks needs to be serviced? If I have no leaks, can I just replace the oil, or am I supposed to be replacing all of the seals and bushings as well? My owners manual doesn't list a fork service interval, but I'm betting it's somewhere around every 10-12kmi? |
Dfbutler
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 05:28 pm: |
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If you take them apart, the seals are cheap and should be replaced. |
Natexlh1000
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 06:05 pm: |
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The book suggests that you wheel your bike into the dealership every 10K and give them all of your money. It's a part of the 10K service. The reality is you don't need to rebuild them that often. And yes, the individual little parts are cheap. If you're going in there at all, you might as well replace the teflon sliders too. I had a friend rebuild my forks and he showed me my old parts. They looked rough! I had gone 25,000 or so and road salt got into the steel reinforcing things in the seals and well... they didn't seal. besides that, the teflon sliders didn't have any more teflon left Perhaps the wisest thing to do is split the difference between my idiotic neglect and the 10K? say 15 to 20 thousand miles? |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 06:35 pm: |
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Well, I'm coming up on that 25kmi mark, so sounds like a winter project to me. Also need to rebuild the front caliper, flush the brake fluid, new tire... this is a big service year. Come to think of it, so was last year, haha. |
Fullauto
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 06:50 pm: |
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I recently pulled my forks, changed the fork oil and because my forks had never leaked, didn't bother to replace the seals. Guess what? Yep, one of them is now leaking like a sieve. I even had the new seals there. Here we go again. |
Mbsween
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 08:21 pm: |
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I'm doing my first oil/seal/o-ring/bushing replace at .....45K (maybe 50, the speedo didn't work for a couple years)! I'll post pics as soon as i get them apart. The parts get here Friday |
Xl1200r
| Posted on Tuesday, November 15, 2011 - 11:58 pm: |
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I'd be interested to see those pics. As long as I'm going in, may as well consider new springs and gold valves. Anyone know what weight rider the stock springs are supposed to be for? I've heard 165lbs but I don't know if that's verified. |
Jramsey
| Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 07:17 am: |
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Here is an excellent thread by Oldog complete with pics. http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/249047.html |
Jayvee
| Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 11:12 am: |
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Well, now I got a few more pieces to buy, before I take mine apart... (Message edited by jayvee on November 16, 2011) |
Bigslug
| Posted on Wednesday, November 16, 2011 - 04:19 pm: |
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Something else to consider while your forks are apart are Racetech Gold Valves. I installed a set this summer on the S2 and it made a noticeable difference in how the bike rides, especially the sharp edged bumps.The only problem is now I want to revalve the shock also! Mike |
Dfbutler
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 03:25 pm: |
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I upgraded the springs and valves to the Racetec springs (based on their rider weight chart) and gold valves. BIG difference. Much less nose dive on braking and seems much more planed in corners. If you're taking the forks apart anyway, it is an upgrade worth considering. I did not do it myself, but the shop that did the job said the new springs were MUCH stiffer when they tried to put the forks back together. |
Oldog
| Posted on Thursday, November 17, 2011 - 06:44 pm: |
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Yes an oil change can be done with out a tear down, in some cases it will not be a problem. its your T&M the job beyond removal is not bad with a seal driver and fill tool ( I dont have either ) |
Jayvee
| Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2011 - 12:16 am: |
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Question for Dfbutler (and anyone else who's done it) approximately what length of spacer did you wind up with for installing the RaceTech springs? I know it's different for everybody, and based on measurements, etc. but just for a reasonableness check, I'd like to know what spacer length anybody else has come up with. I have the springs and gold valves sitting here. |
Mbsween
| Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2011 - 08:34 am: |
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Olddog, by fill tool, do you mean the syringe like "thing" from Motion pro (or similar)? |
Bigslug
| Posted on Saturday, November 19, 2011 - 10:20 am: |
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On the S2, the spacers were about 1". I did the M2 a few years ago, and I think the spacers were around 1-1/4" long. Mike |
Dfbutler
| Posted on Monday, November 21, 2011 - 04:14 pm: |
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Talk to Race Tech, there is a program on their web site that should provide the info on spacers. As I said, I did not do the job myself. |
Skntpig
| Posted on Tuesday, November 22, 2011 - 11:13 am: |
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I have new unused/never installed but open box racetech springs for an S1 or S2 will sell for $80 shipped. I think the spring weight is Part number is FRSP S3534085 PM me. (Message edited by skntpig on November 22, 2011) |
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