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Smac
Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 05:04 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I would like to perform a TPS reset on my 2008XT with 25k miles to hopefully cure the rough running condition.

I did my research on the Badweb to get the procedure but noticed that some believe the reset should be done with a warmed up engine...not a cold one.

What is the best technique? I would like to give it a try before I head home from work today.

Thanks,
Sean
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 05:09 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It doesn't matter on the 08. The reason it is suggested to do it warmed up on older bikes is because you have to manually set the idle after a reset. If the bike is cold, you won't be able to correctly set the idle and then it will cause other issues like slow return to idle when squeezing the clutch.

The 08+ bikes have an electronically controlled idle that automatically calibrates itself.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 07:32 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I'd still do it hot. Tell the computer what's "closed throttle" on a hot throttle plate, which is where most of your riding is done.

Calibrate it for a cold plate, and your numbers will be off once everything heats up.

TPS zero does more than just set the idle, Frank. Remember? It's the base-zero factor for ALL the fuel and spark maps. If you're at 10% throttle and you want the thing to run right, it needs to know where 0% was in order to set itself properly.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, November 08, 2011 - 07:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

TPS has nothing to do with the idle on his bike, when you close the throttle, it is closed, next to no air gets in as it uses a separate valve with a stepper motor to control the idle. The TPS will periodically reset itself anyway without user intervention, and it does it when the bike is cold.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2011 - 08:05 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I forgot it does it on its own - me and my antiquated DDFI-II bike and (gasp!) carbureted bikes : )

I know DDFI-III doesn't set the idle, but I still think its a good idea to do the reset hot since that's where the motorcycle is ridden - hot. The computer still needs to know where that volume knob is, when its actually at zero.
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Mark_weiss
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2011 - 10:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

from the service manual:


quote:



The TPS zero procedure should be performed if the TPS or ECM are replaced or if
the ECM has been recalibrated.
To zero the TPS:
a. Set the Run/Stop switch to the Run position.
b. Turn the ignition key to the On position.
c. With the engine off, rotate the throttle grip from closed throttle position to
wide-open throttle position and back to closed position 3 times holding the throttle
grip against each stop for 1 full second.
d. Cycle the key off and back on.




(Message edited by Mark_weiss on November 09, 2011)
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Wednesday, November 09, 2011 - 03:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Intake spooge from the breathers has been known to gum up the idle bypass valve.
Somewhere here, someone shows how to remove it and clean it.
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Smac
Posted on Thursday, November 10, 2011 - 03:37 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thank you all for your suggestions. I ended up doing the TPS cold thinking if it did not help or make things worse, I'd redo the TPS with a warm engine.

The TPS reset cold has really seemed to remedy the issues I was experiencing. It's not quite perfect, but WAY better than it was. I may try to redo the TPS hot now & see it further improves.

-Sean
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Smac
Posted on Saturday, November 12, 2011 - 09:19 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

So I thought I'd try to do the TPS when the engine was warm to see if it made a difference. When I jumped back on to head home from work, the bike ran like crap...hesitating & bogging down during acceleration.

The next day, I re-did the TPS with a cold engine & the bike ran well again. Anyone else experience this?
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Natexlh1000
Posted on Sunday, November 13, 2011 - 11:00 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That's opposite of the intended effects!

Do your throttle cables have enough slack in them?
It might be a good idea to warm up the engine and then take open the airbox to lay eyes on the situation directly.

I'm thinking something might be interfering in your throttle butterfly's movement when warm.
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