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Xb1200rick
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2011 - 08:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Whats the general consensus on using heated gear on the 1125. Will it kill the stator faster or does the cold temps help keep the stator going ? I want my heat !!
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Froggy
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2011 - 08:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Heated gear will not kill the stator faster, I asked a Buell engineer about that a while back.

I run a heated suit with other electrical goodies, no issue.
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Jaimec
Posted on Thursday, November 03, 2011 - 08:52 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I rode my 2009 1125R all year round, and wore a heated jacket and ran the heated grips all winter. Traded the bike in recently with over 18,000 miles on it, with the original stator intact.

YMMV.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2011 - 08:24 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's a shunt regulator (stock), so you are drawing about the same current if you use it or not.

In fact, I suspect running higher loads actually keeps the stator slightly cooler (though not by much).
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Jdugger
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2011 - 08:38 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

It's not a problem.

What makes a difference is keeping the revs above 5k.
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Northernyankee
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2011 - 01:18 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I have a Gerbing Liner and Gloves on my 08, I can run the Liner with no issues at all. With the Gloves added in I have to keep the revs up or it will I will get a low batt light after a while in low speed stop and go traffic.

I suspect that with an 09 you will have no issues at all.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2011 - 08:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Higher loads keep the REGULATOR cooler; it means it doesn't have to shunt as much V to ground (which makes heat), because you're using it.

The stator puts out voltage based on RPM, not load/current draw. It's a static output based on revs.

Any stator output that's not being used, gets shunted to ground by the regulator...which is where your heat reduction would be from using more power.

All that said...I use a gerbings jacket liner, gloves, and Buell heated grips on my 09 CR. Jacket/grips, no problem except for extended stop-n-go traffic situations. Add gloves, I need to get out of traffic sooner, or I just turn down the thermostat on the jacket until I start moving again.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Friday, November 04, 2011 - 09:15 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You are right Rat, but I still think a loaded stator sees less heat...

My reasoning is as follows:

1) No load. Magnetic field is rotating into the coil,getting stronger, making more voltage.
2) Boom, it hits the magic 14.2 V.
3) SCR triggers, shunts to ground.
4) At this point, the stator is the resistive load shunting all that current. Power is amps times amps times ohms, and this is the most current the stator will ever see. Power == heat.

In the other case....
1) No load. Magnetic field is rotating into the coil,getting stronger, making more voltage.
2) Dang, magnetic field is generating more and more power, but the load is so high on the bike, its struggling to get up to any kind of good volgate.
3) still struggling, peak of magnetic field, dang. still only at 14.1 volts.
4) Current coming out of the stator is lower, though voltage is higher.
5) But heat in the stator is amps time amps time ohms... and now the amps are less, because the power is constant.

I think anyway. Today. It's a pretty tricky problem with a lot of unknowns. Bottom line though, when you short a power supply to ground, you are typically hurting it a LOT more than when you leave it on enough of a load to maintain some voltage....
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2011 - 08:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

My understanding is the VR shows the correct "load" to the stator at all times. This is why a bad VR can also kill a stator - if that load-side of the VR goes bad, the stator can follow.

The VR has an input side, and an output side. Input side shows the load required to the stator, to balance its outputs and keep it from backfeeding, overloading, unbalancing, etc. Output side reads bike system requirements and allows the proper amount of voltage to get to the bike. Any excess power (input compared to draw) is shunted to ground through heat sinks.

The stator, though...is a constant based on RPM. There are no electronics, no variables, no electronic "gates" - simply magnets in orbit around a coil. They go faster, they make more power. They go slower, they make less. The overheating issue we've been seeing on 09-10 bikes is because they tried to get too small a package (physically) to generate too much electricity - an output / rating that is determined by the quantity, and size, of wraps in the coils as well as the size and strength of the magnets.

Think garden hose - a 1" hose can only move so much water, no matter how much pressure you feed it. If you pump more and more and more pressure to it...sure, you get more water. For a little bit, then you pop the hose (burn the stator). Keep the water pressure down...you don't blow the hose. Keep the rated output down on a stator based on its size and package...and you don't cook it. HD wanted to try and stop the "my battery is dead" problems folks were having on the '08s, so they just opened the faucet on the '09s...without using a bigger hose.

But all the control electronics are in the VR, as far as power draw / ground shunts / AC/DC conversion. That's why it gets so HOT, and is bolted to the tail subframe as a heat sink.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2011 - 10:12 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I wish we had the schematic. The one schematic we did see a long time ago was for something different but similar.

The problem Rat is that if the VR uses SCR's, they can't do what you describe. They are either off (and open), or on (and shorted to ground with about a 1.2 volt forward drop).

Once shorted to ground, they stay that way until the current stops flowing.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Saturday, November 05, 2011 - 08:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

And there's electronics in the VR that can tell the SCR whatever it wants, based on current draw and available input power.
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Reepicheep
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 12:49 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

True, but the SCR has to be either "off" (at which point it isn't regulating anything) or "on" at which point it is dropping about 1.2v forward volts. There is no way to put an SCR in some "middle" setting.

The most clever controller in the world can't make an SCR regulate in any other way.
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Ratbuell
Posted on Sunday, November 06, 2011 - 08:00 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

You're right...but the electronics can tell it to turn "off" for a bit...then back "on"...then "off"...then "on". Its a switching effect similar to the thermostat on my heated clothes. While an SCR can't do a "middle ground" as far as on/off...it can average a "middle ground" on a time-based scale. Hence the electronics in the VR.
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