| Author | Message | ||
     Buellitup |
I found a couple of threads on removing the tire: http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 371723.html?1214526375 http://badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/ 630749.html?1304965603 It doesn't sound complicated. How long will it take? Anything weird to be on the lookout for? A friend is going to help me, and he has done it on an XB. How different are they? | ||
| Nillaice |
don't mess with the brake caliper. JUST TAKE OF THE UPPER BELT GUARD AND MUDFLAP, THEN 'LIFT' THE RIM OUT AND TO THE LEFT it is waay easier than what teh manual sez to do, and i had better luck not scratching up my rims trying to get the caliper off with a small L-shaped allen wrench. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
The 1125R is easier to remove. Make sure you remove BOTH F&R calipers. It makes it go much smoother and easier, especially the rear. To remove the rear caliper, you will need a small ratchet wrench with an Allen key to fit it between the wheel/tire and caliper bolt. It makes all the difference. It's easier on the 1125R because you don't need to remove the upper and lower belt guard and the idler pulley and its cover. Also, the 1125R's front wheel can be removed without the need to turn the front wheel too much to the left as long as you remove the front caliper. You do need to remove the front fender to make it even easier but that's a piece of cake to do also. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
and i had better luck not scratching up my rims trying to get the caliper off with a small L-shaped allen wrench. I actually found it much easier to slide the rear wheel out once the rear brake caliper is off. However you are right. It's very tricky and sometimes impossible to remove the rear caliper with an L-shaped Allen wrench. You need one of those small, miniature allen wrench ratchet tool with an allen key attachment. I got mine at Sears for less than $10 and that tool has been useful on other tight jobs as well as it comes with a variety of keys (cross, flat head, hex). | ||
| Froggy |
I tried that, nearly destroyed the stock license plate/turn signal mount. Oh and it still gouged up my rim. It is damn near impossible to get the upper belt guard off due to its fasteners being blocked by the foot peg bracket. I also previously tried the wiggle trick that Jdugger uses, and gouged the hell out of the rim. The books directions are the easiest and most reliable. Also, you end up removing the least amount of crap. | ||
| Nillaice |
--i made my own tag mount and have an XB lights option 6, so i guess that's why my experiences and opinions differ. -- i'll give you that the front screw on the top belt guard is a PITA, and have only been successful removing it with teh tool kit T-30 L-wrench. i think this one is pretty much undisputable; line up the front wheel's spokes into teh grooves on the back side of the front caliper. i've had the best luck using an extra pair of hands to keep this lined up. BOTTOM LINE___ there are many ways to get the job done successfully. Buellitup; please post up Your experiences and opinions to bring this thread full circle | ||
| Rt_performance |
be sure you align the notches in the front cailper with the spokes or you will damage your front wheel | ||
| Sprintst |
I've done both the front and rear now, neither was hard I followed the service manual, worked out fine | ||
| Xtreme6669 |
After doing several front and rear wheel removals both ways I prefer and recommend not removing either caliper. I don't run any belt guards so that's not an issue for me I just remover the rear tire hugger and lift the tire out and in the front remove the fender... I will say that the first time I did the not removing caliper technique it was a bit of a pita but the second time it went smooth. | ||
| Njdevils1990 |
I did my CR without removing the rear caliper and it takes a little careful handling but it will work it's way out and didn't scratch my rim up, the front I removed the caliper and fender abd that took all of 5 minutes to get off. It will be a little longer now as I have axle sliders to take off now. | ||
| Green1 |
I had no problem doing the rear tire but getting the front rim off and on was a pita.I used the pull tie method to install the front tire on the rim,6 ties used and it went on in about 10 seconds,easiest tire install ever | ||
| Crustyxpunk |
I have an extended brake line on the front so removing the front wheel is a snap and removing the fender is not needed. For the rear I just remove the front bolt holding on the top belt guard, remove the axle, snake the belt around the guard and pull the rear wheel. Easy and takes less time than other methods. Also nothing gets scratched using either of these methods. But to each his own ![: ]](http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/clipart/proud.gif) | ||
| Buellitup |
Had a good look at it the other day. Definitely don't need to remove the p-clamp. What's weird though is that I don't think I even need to change the tires yet. Just over 5k on them, and they probably have another 500 miles in them. Maybe I'm just an old slow man. In any case, I'm putting it off until spring. | ||
| Sprintst |
This would be a sweet setup   NK Components Quick Disconnect Brake Lines Pricing: $289.95 With high speed and high performance brake pads comes endless pad changes. Every time pads are changed calipers should be cleaned to remove brake dust material as it creates drag, resistance, and ultimately caliper failure. NK Components spent one season twisting lines attempting to clean calipers in between races in the paddock and said, "NO MORE." NK Components designed a quick disconnect line that isn't $1500.00 like the MotoGP lines. This incorporates a dry break quick disconnect that allows removal of the calipers from the bike without pulling off the mastercylinder. Once reconnected there is no need to rebleed as no air is introduced into the brake system. NK Components has brought MotoGP technology to a track near you at a fraction of the cost. All lines are custom made depending on: bike, master cylinder, and calipers. If you are using OEM components write OEM in the text box. (Message edited by sprintst on October 21, 2011) (Message edited by sprintst on October 21, 2011) | ||
| Thefleshrocket |
I recently changed the rear tire. I removed the fender guard (used an allen key to remove the bolt partially obscured by the passenger footrest) and removed the rear caliper (easily done with an allen socket and a 3/8 drive). Seriously, it's super easy and quick to remove the rear tire like that, and I've never scratched anything. | ||
| Jaimec |
I've a friend with a No-Mar tire repair system in his garage. He's a large guy who rides aggressively, so he goes through tires a LOT (rides a Kawasaki Concours 14) so he figured he'd end up saving money doing his own tires. In order to help pay for the equipment, he will change anyone's tires for less than half of what the local shops will charge. Anyway, he was a little concerned about doing my 1125R's tires, as he'd heard Buells were a little "different." After we were done, he said it was probably the EASIEST bike he'd ever worked on. Everything went exactly as documented in the shop manual. Probably the first time he's ever said that. | ||
| Rkc00 |
Jamie Can I get his name and #? | ||
| Jaimec |
Mike, PM sent... | ||
| Rkc00 |
Thanks |
