| Author | Message | ||
     Db4570 |
New to me 2000 Cyclone, and it needs tires. Easy, I figured. My last bike, I plopped it up on the center stand and was good to go. I guess I knew this bike didn't have a center stand, but figured there was a simple method. So how do you guys lift the bike to take the wheels off? It seems like everything in the Knowledge Vault talks about special lifts and jacks ($$). There isn't a basic cheap alternative? I guess I got spoiled with center stands in the past (except when they dragged in the curves!) Suggestions for cheap and safe solutions appreciated. Dave | ||
| Schwiiing |
I have a 99 Cyclone. To get the rear wheel off the ground, remove the rear foot pegs and re-insert each one up-side-down (now they won't flip up). Use two jack stands - with the bike on it's side stand, take one and place it just under the foot peg on the right side of the bike. Stand the bike upright and the foot peg will lift the wheel off the ground. Have a friend lift the left foot peg and slide the second jack stand under. To get the front wheel off the ground took a little more commitment. I bolted a short length of chain to the ceiling of my garage using a U-bolt over one of the roof trusses - it just lives there. When I need to lift the front, I use a 'come-along' (clipped into the chain) and a nylon strap under the head set of the bike. Rear end on jack stands, front end suspended from ceiling - both wheels off the ground for tire changes. | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Best way is to attack from above. Ratcheting tiedowns from rear frame to an overhead beam. Handlebars to an overhead beam for the front. Getting the front wheel off past the brake is a real puzzler though. The "official" method of getting clearance for the brake stuff is to remove the brake pads first. My bike is a freak or something because I have always had to remove the damn disk to get the wheel off! As for the rear, remember not to twist the belt because it can pop the little strands inside. | ||
| Hootowl |
You can lift the front by jacking under the front mount for the rear shock. | ||
| Buellistic |
LIFT WHEELS OFF THE GROUND Class 101(with PICTURE), just PM me for a copy ... | ||
| Preybird1 |
+1 hoowtowl I just use a small floor jack on that spot. the front i use the strap method.  In this pic i am changing the rear shock out. | ||
| Dwardo |
Easy way to do the back. Put a suitable steel rod through the axle, pretty long. Get two jack stands set just high enough to lift the wheel as high as you want it. Lean the bike to the right and put one stand under the left stand, then ass the bike upright and slip the other one under. The bike isn't that heavy. For the front I loop an old fan belt around the steering head and hang it from my chain hoist. | ||
| Prior |
Floor jack under the front shock mount for the front, floor jack under the rear shock mount for the rear tire. Can't get any easier. | ||
| Jakenok |
I use F&R paddock stands from Cycle Gear | ||
| Hootowl |
I use the rod through the axle method too, but you can't take the wheels off that way. I also use that trick when lifting it into a truck. Takes two people and a bit of balance. | ||
| Dwardo |
Nice catch! Duh! | ||
| Littlebuggles |
Yeah, I just got universal fit front and rear stands from a local shop. Cycle gear has a ton of stuff on sale right now if you have one close to you. I suggest if you can't do the lift from above option you might want a headstock lift rather than just a front wheel lift, so you can remove forks for service or adjust steering head bearings. | ||
| Ft_bstrd |
Right now, I've got the MDeuce front end off the ground by lifting one of the fork leg ends with a floor jack. | ||
| Oldog |
Check NateXlh1000's profile pic, thats a shop stand! floor or bottle jack under front shock mount, block of wood under engine ( using engine for lift point ( usefull for front iso change ) jack stands on passenger pegs for tire change just purchased a HF lift table still figuring that out, | ||
| Natexlh1000 |
Short explanation of my profile pic: My belt broke. My friend rescued me in his pickup. We got it home and realized that neither one of us had a ramp! We winched it up to a maple tree and drove the truck out from under the bike. | ||
| Harleyelf |
I use a seven foot ladder and a tie-down strap. Loop the strap over the ladder top with the ladder straddling the front end. Loop the strap under the steering neck and winch it up until the wheel is off the ground. The same technique can be used on the rear; just move the ladder so it straddles the rear wheel and put the strap around the tail of the frame. If your bike has bodywork like my S3 you need to take it off. | ||
| 13was13 |
crutch rocket (unsafe):  | ||
| Jramsey |
Four years ago I got tired of fighting it and bought a Handy lift,  it works well with the Jib crane I built. | ||
| Blake |
Jib crane maybe need bigger gussets. PM me if you'd like. | ||
| Blake |
In a desperate situation a stick will do...  Don't even think about touching that stick! You can put another stick under the rear peg mount as a safety backup. Also note the blocked front tire and the tightly clamped front brake lever (via velcro strap). | ||
| Jramsey |
"Jib crane maybe need bigger gussets" Gussets were to hold spindle plates square while welding.  | ||
| Buellistic |
Since 1997 and 110K mikes as of the last ride "i" have used 2 old car body stands and a small hydraulic jack to do what ever needed to be done ... | ||
| Blake |
Other gussets, between wide flange rail and king post. Tough to see, but local load path at welded connection for bending looks questionable. Happy to help if you want. Maybe you braced interior of king post tube with a plate (bulkhead) in-plane with wide flange beam's lower flange? | ||
| Jramsey |
"king post tube" Main post is 6"x6"x 1/2" wall thickness. I trust my work and so do my customers,built several dozen Jibs like these and no complaints and no failures in 33 years. Here's a single hub pivot jib crane for my mill  BTW the hoist in the first pic was used to unload this mill 2,600 lbs. If you want I'll start a new thread in the KV Do It Yourself: Machine Shop, Garage, Tools and Tips. so not to Hijack this thread any further to discuss as I always keep an open mind and appreciate others suggestions and ideas . Best regards James (Message edited by Jramsey on October 07, 2011) | ||
| Buellistic |
MY, MY, the PRODUCT IMPROVING "i" could do on all my OEM Parts with those GREEN MACHINES !!! | ||
| Jramsey |
LaFayette, If you're ever in the area you are welcome to the use of the shop. | ||
| Buellistic |
As BIG as TEXAS is you are about as far from Houston as "i" am from Houston ... "BUT" if "i" ever get up that way "i" will stop by for coffee ... | ||
| Road_thing |
 I use the heaviest lift that Harbor Freight sells, with a custom frame to lift the rear of the bike with a ratchet strap. rt | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
The brake caliper will come off if you remove the pads first. No need to disturb the rotor. The key is to take your time to find the right position. When you do get the right angle, the caliper will slide right off the rotor. I have done it that way several times now and, when you get the hang of it, it is easy. Do not get frustrated and force anything. From what I hear, many rotors have been damaged that way. | ||
| Rick_a |
I use Pitbull lifts; the front from the steering head, the rear on the swingarm. I also have a Tuber specific center stand that is used for swingarm, steering head, or rear isolator work. |
