| Author | Message | ||
     Mudshuvel319 |
So I have a 99 X1 with just over 23k that's flashing the Check Engine Light. It's otherrwise running great but over the past couple weeks the bike has stalled a few times for no apparent reason and at various times: sometimes idling, sometimes cruising at 2500 RPM and other times decelerating. Really, no rhyme or reason to it. Anyway, I started getting the flashing red light on the tach and I've tried to pull a code by both jumping the 1 and 2 pins and by hooking it up to ECMSPY to no avail. One of the issues is that every time I try to pull the codes, I turn the key to the ignition setting and flip the kill switch to 'run,'but the red light just flashes and the pump doesn't build pressure. Rather, I hear the pump attempting to engage but all it produces as a rapid series of clicks (two or three clicks per second). Without the pump building the required pressure, ECMSPY doesn't seem able to read the bike's ECM. If I repeatedly turn the key to off and then back to ignition, very occasionally I'll get the pump to work and the bike to ready itself to start. But when I try to read the codes with ECMSPY at that point, I keep getting the error message 'unable to open com port.' At this point I suspect that the fuel pump needs replacing but I really don't want to drop all of that money if it's something far simpler. I can't even perform a TPS reset at this point which could potentially solve everything. I pulled off the connector for the pump and it did look slightly corroded. But I cleaned off the contacts and added some dielectric grease and that unfortunately did not solve the problem. Does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks. Dan | ||
| Britchri10 |
Before doing anything else check your grounds & battery. If these are tight/charged/otherwise OK it could be a short somewhere between the ECM & the fuel pump. It's a bugger to check but it might save you replacing the fuel pump for no reason. FWIW: My 99 X1 acted up badly when the stator/rotor went bad & threw all kinds of weird codes & refused to prime the fuel pump. YMMV. Good luck! Chris C | ||
| Two_seasons |
I'm betting it's either the ignition switch or the kill switch is intermittent. Wiggle test with both to ON and move the handlebars port to starboard several times. If you hear the fuel pump cycling or the headlight dimming (darker garage wall to see it) some, then you'll know where to look. (Message edited by two_seasons on September 18, 2011) | ||
| Oldog |
Shovel Unable to open com port is a computer error on your laptop, try assigning ecm spy to another port ( if #1 say try #2 ) you can use the device manager ( presuming XP ) and see which ports are in use.., this may or may not have any bearing on the no fuel pump issue carefully connect it to the battery and ground ( un hooked from the harness see if its normal 5 seconds will tell you ) make sure that you do not connect the wrong leads you will burn out the low fuel sender the key switches on the bikes are known to fail by pass it for testing .. ymmv | ||
| Ifgofson |
Point Blank, I've had respectful buddies of mine, suggest a new Wire Harness. First, confirm the condition of battery, if it will accept a charge(trickle) charge it. Should fall in the range of 11.6v to 12.8v. load test it, getting rid of the surface charge, wait bout an hour and re check actual VOLTS. If your in a hurry connect Battery and Crank it over(15sec.) and observe the Voltage, should read 9.6v or higher. Here's state of charge data: HD Sport Type 12.8v Full 100% 12.6v 75% 12.3v 50% 12.0v 25% 11.8v 0% Empty Trickle Charge Battery @2amp for 7hours. when searching for electric problems it's a good idea to remove the gas tank, while in the process of getting the tank elevated, note the Fuel Pump Connector(4 pin) de scuff any oxidation or dirt on that. You will need to probe and visually check for bad wire(s), dirty, loose, short to metal(grounded), intermittents, and OPEN Wires. "SPIKES" This is what separates the men from the boy's. Just sharpen up the test light tip and use sharp probe meter tips. Flow charts are easy to follow once all of the above is understood. Don't overtighten zip ties that have been removed/replaced. Re-Connect Fuel-line and fuel pump connector(4-pin) after attaching the gas onto the bike. See if you can shake hands with the ECM via The Data Link connector. As you mentioned. Turn Key on, Engine stop switch to run, pin 1 to 2,, after 8seconds check engine light starts flashing 6X(Shaking Hands). No codes? Start bike up and re-move jumper wire. Take a ride on a bumpy road observe the flash pattern, Steady pattern still? Turn Off Diagnostic Flash light, by performing start and run cycle shutdown. Take another ride down that bumpy road once again, any codes? Problem solved. If not, inspect Starter relay(s), switch(s) and the bullet connection(s) zip tied to/near the oil pump towards the VR and Master Circuit breaker(30A), all alongside stator cables routing. I believe it's connection (46) or P17 if you will. Can't miss em they are beneath the right side GEARCASE COVER. Time well spent, Good Luck. | ||
| Ifgofson |
Point Blank, I've had respectful buddies of mine, suggest a new Wire Harness. First, confirm the condition of battery, if it will accept a charge(trickle) charge it. Should fall in the range of 11.6v to 12.8v. load test it, getting rid of the surface charge, wait bout an hour and re check actual VOLTS. If your in a hurry connect Battery and Crank it over(15sec.) and observe the Voltage, should read 9.6v or higher. Here's state of charge data: HD Sport Type 12.8v Full 100% 12.6v 75% 12.3v 50% 12.0v 25% 11.8v 0% Empty Trickle Charge Battery @2amp for 7hours. when searching for electric problems it's a good idea to remove the gas tank, while in the process of getting the tank elevated, *note the Fuel Pump Connector(4 pin) de scuff any oxidation or dirt on that. You will need to probe and visually check for bad wire(s), dirty, loose, short to metal(grounded), intermittents, and OPEN Wires. "SPIKES" This is what separates the men from the boy's. Just sharpen up the test light tip and use sharp probe meter tips. Flow charts are easy to follow once all of the above is understood. Don't overtighten zip ties that have been removed/replaced. Re-Connect Fuel-line and fuel pump connector(4-pin) after attaching the gas tank onto the bike. See if you can shake hands with the ECM via The Data Link connector. As you mentioned. Turn Key on, Engine stop switch to run, pin 1 to 2,, after 8seconds check engine light starts flashing 6X(Shaking Hands). No codes? Start bike up and re-move jumper wire. Take a ride on a bumpy road observe the flash pattern, Steady pattern still? Turn Off Diagnostic Flash light, by performing start and run cycle shutdown. Take another ride down that bumpy road once again, any codes? Problem solved. If not, inspect Starter relay(s), switch(s) and the bullet connection(s) zip tied to/near the oil pump towards the VR and Master Circuit breaker(30A), all alongside stator cables routing. I believe it's connection (46) or P17 if you will. Can't miss em they are beneath the right side GEARCASE COVER. Time well spent, Good Luck. | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I actually just replaced the battery earlier this year so that shouldn't be the problem but I'll give it a charge just to make sure. I did check the fuel pump connection and like I said, it was a bit corroded. But after cleaning up the contacts and applying some dielectric grease, I still had the same issues. I tried jiggling the ignition wires to see if I had a loose connection or short somewhere in the line but the pump didn't kick on. Which fuel pump leads to I connect to the battery? There are 4 contacts so I only have a 1 in 12 chance of getting it right without knowing for sure, haha. | ||
| Ifgofson |
Hey Bud what's going on? Your Bike's Pirty Clean in that Photo. Let's get the fuel pump out of the equation. Uhh, let's see... I went to look up that info on the fuel pump hot wire, you got me thinking. The flash check engine light thing? IDK remember stuff happening on my S3, it was the Voltage Regulator shot.  Anyhow it appears to be Brown w\yellow trace colored wire. Thats the hot one. Operating Voltage =14volts, delivery rate of 70LPH@49psi, Stock. Heres this, AIRTEX pt#E2061. Stock Pump. U could score one at Kragens / Autozone got em for $100 and change. Oh, on the fuel pressure regulator, the two screws... Forget the screwdriver lock on to them with visegrips. Yup time well spent money saved. Just the gravity of the whole situation. "Brown w\yellow trace. Say's here, had this wire contact ground the fuel pump kicks on. (Ignition on in nuetral U Know) God Bless You and Yours. Be Careful! GM | ||
| Mudshuvel319 |
Update! So because I was getting nowhere with the code reading with the fuel pump not operating, I disconnected the fuel pump wire harness and tried that way. This time I had success pulling the codes and was able to pull a code 33 -fuel pump. So it looks like I need a new pump. Godfrey, thanks for the heads up on the pump part number. I found it online so I should be able to get it pretty easily. | ||
| Ifgofson |
Thank you. Push came to shove, you got around and to the code. 4pin plug, 3 of them a major artery. Dielectric grease those other connections while the X1 tank/cover is off and out of the way. idk, a piece of my mind Mudshuvel319, Still more to be done. From the word "jump", the Electric Gremlins got me good, as I was not able to ride (the Moto GP Laguna Seca Races of 2009). BadWeb Rules! -Down to Earth, -Serious, the best group of "Trouble Shooters" on line, in out above and downunder the information highway. Hands Down, with out a doubt. "Being out in left field with out a mit". During install of Pump Assembly, positioning it into place was done with a shoe lace from a Chuck Taylor sneaker. I wrapped the Four wires together in a tight bunch, then tugged that (shoe laced bunch of wires) on through the mounting holes. The rubber washers, scored at Ace Hardware. These washers kinda spun into place preventing them(X2 flat washers) from sliding off into the gas tank during the installation process, other than that, losing an auction on e-bay for a new fuel pressure regulator left some room for debate. Lag time was spent on the auction. A basic, visual inspection and by way of an appropriate sized drill bit, I was able to check the pressure regulator diaphragm for binding. With the back end of the drill bit, apply pressure observing smooth movement(inlet). I thought about changing the fuel pressure here, tweaking the spring, something maybe McGyver can figure out over at the Bosch Factory.  Oh well that's it for now. Time well spent. Fedia saved. Mudshuvel319, uhh, a no-nonsense set up/drivers of ECMspy V.12.27, I can use a copy out in my neck of the woods. For personal use. Operating System XP. WHO? WOT On a Desolate Road!!!!! | ||
| Thejosh |
Had the same prob with my 2000 X1. If you have the stock ignition switch, that could be the problem. Mine started to go intermittent and about 200 miles later it would no longer turn on, except for the parking lights. I tested it by disconnecting the connector that goes to the ignition switch, it's only 3 wires, i jumped the two outer wires (I believe) and the fuel pump and check engine light came on. I replaced the switch and all is well. Hope this helps. Josh | ||
| 01x1buell |
my bike has done that before ,, and it turned out to be a loose relay. | ||
| Old_al |
Buell x1 lightening check engine light keeps coming on intermittently, repaired code problems and rechecked codes, no new codes have appeared. have not erased the old codes yet, cycle runs great but check engine light comes on at no give speed or rpm. Light stays on for 3 to 5 seconds. Will this model keep flashing check engine till old codes are erased. 50 start-ups will clear system, but that is a little much to contend with if check engine light keeps coming on. |
