| Author | Message | ||
     Xodot |
I have some money to improve the 25R on track days. I am a slow intermediate rider. I will never race. (too old; too little testosterone I suppose) I have the EEBBRR ECM and a GPR damper riding Michelin Pure Power. No other mods. I ride track about 10 days a season and put on 5,000 km /3,000 miles a year. Am I best to put money into upgrading the brakes or the suspension or a little of both? Which components would you change out and with what? I read some of you have make significant handling improvements which is great! Can you help a brother out with some direction? | ||
| Cycledoc59 |
The stock brakes are more than adequate for all but the most skilled top-level riders. You could experiment with different pads.. Same with the fully adjustable suspension. The fact that is it so adjustable means professional help is often needed to set the bike up properly. | ||
| Jdugger |
1. Tires. 2. Brake FLUID 3. Brake PADS -- OEM or EBC extreme pro is fine for typical track day guy 4. Suspension REFRESH. (Seals and fluids) 5. Suspension PARTS (the Erik Buell Racing stuff is a nice start and reasonably priced) 6. Race brake upgrades (rotor, pads, mounting kit, etc.) | ||
| Ysracer |
You'll need to improve the brake long before you find the limits of the stock suspension, assuming you don't weigh 200 lbs., or more. | ||
| Dannybuell |
all of the above from Jdugger, maybe not in that order. 1. When was your last F/R suspension refresh? Old oil turns into sludge, is a bad ride and poor performer. 2. How much do you weigh? Springs and valving for your higher or lower weight. 3. How much suspension tuning have you done in the past? 4. When you have an unsettling moment on the bike do you tune the suspension to make the problem go away? If you have a fresh suspension that is set up for your weight and riding style you are off to a good start. If you have a very proactive approach to tuning in general there can only be your next experience to give you additional input on what to do next. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
I would put the money into professionally tuning your suspension and honing your skills. Then upgrade the rotor and master cylinder later. The suspension would be last. That's because it already has a great, fully adjustable suspension. That is the last thing holding the bike back at the track. | ||
| Xodot |
Hey guys this kind of feedback is priceless to me. Thanks for the replies. Danny- 1. When was your last F/R suspension refresh? Old oil turns into sludge, is a bad ride and poor performer. I changed the fork oil at the end of last years's season. I have done 10 track days and 3,000 miles (5,000 km) since How do you service the rear shock??? There is nothing in the shop manual explaining that. I have used the search feature on Badweb too with negative results. 2. How much do you weigh? Springs and valving for your higher or lower weight. body weight in the 180's so that's about 200 suited up I guess. That's about the ideal weight from what am I reading here right? 3. How much suspension tuning have you done in the past? I have adjusted and noted the changes to the suspension and the rideability over the course of my 10 track days this summer. The last time out has been the best but I am sure I can play with the compression/rebound more. Of course if the rear shock is overdue for service I need to do that first. I hope someone can lead me on the shock service. 4. When you have an unsettling moment on the bike do you tune the suspension to make the problem go away? No I don't. All my problems have been attributed to rider gapping! lol JDugger- 1. Tires. - new Michelin Power Pure going on 2. Brake FLUID - done 3. Brake PADS -- OEM or EBC extreme pro is fine for typical track day guy thanks for that advice. I'll upgrade while doing the suspension refresh. 4. Suspension REFRESH. (Seals and fluids) Do you have to change the seals if they are not leaking? Would they make a difference in the rider or is this preventive maintenance? 5. Suspension PARTS (the Erik Buell Racing stuff is a nice start and reasonably priced) good to know 6. Race brake upgrades (rotor, pads, mounting kit, etc.) I'll have to progress in riding ability to get to this point and I hope I will! | ||
| Dannybuell |
gpsuspension.com is as close to the state of the art as you can get for motorcycle suspension sales and service and not be a factory racer. rear shock servicing? gpsuspension.com can answer better than me. I can't see why not. Dave@gpsuspension built my S1 recall shock with a big boy spring and valving. He then rebuilt the shock so many times over the years. I eventually got a Penske from him. http://gpsuspension.com/services/tuningfaq.php Call Dave about rear shock servicing 503.723.7793 | ||
| Stirz007 |
I'd agree with Danny and Jim. For me, it went this way: Upgrade fluids (that's easy). then I upgraded front/rear suspension, then brake pads and heavier rotor. Swapped out tires a couple of times in there somewhere, too. The one not mentioned is dieting. I've shaved well over 40 lb off the bike at not much cost..... I'm running the HeeBeeArr Showa rear shock, and would definitely be interested in the service procedure for same. I generally try to go through suspension over the winter. I have about 1-1/2 seasons on the rear with no servicing, so I need to get on that. I prefer DIY, but haven't been through this one before, so didn't want to just jump in and botch it. I can read pretty good so if you guys have a resource, please turn me on to it. | ||
| Jdugger |
Generally, you need special tools to service a shock. Probably a spring compressor and a high pressure (200-300psi) nitrogen source/regulator for starters. For that one, I just pull the shock from the chassis and hand to a suspension guy. | ||
| Stirz007 |
JD - Spring Compressor - check High Pressure N2 - nope Thanks for the info.... | ||
| Xodot |
thanks for the shock servicing info. I guess i'll be handing it over to the suspension guy too |
