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Xbniner
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 12:11 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

What comes with the high bar kit? I bought a slightly used kit from a member here and it has the bars and two throttle cables. After tearing the bike apart last night I realized I didn't have a brake cable. Should that have been included or is there a way to make the stock cable work?

Thanks
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Bartimus
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 01:07 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

you also need the brake, and clutch cables.
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 01:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Item Description (Quantity) Part Number
1 Brake line assembly front H1531.1AT
2 End cap N0010.02A8
3 Hand grip left (not shown) N0050.K
4 Clutch cable N0103.1AT
5 Throttle cable open N0307.1AT
6 Throttle cable close N0308.1AT
7 Handlebar N1002.1ATZT
8 Cable tie (3) (not shown) Y0303.2B


http://froggypwns.com/buellpdfs/-J04874%201125CR%2 0Handlebar%20kit.pdf
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Xbniner
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 04:56 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

Thanks froggy and bart, is there anybody who can look up the price of the clutch cable N0103.1AT and Brake Line H1531.1AT?

Apparently I only purchased a partial kit and didn't know enough to realize it. Oh well
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Froggy
Posted on Tuesday, September 20, 2011 - 05:48 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

$42 and $43.

Here is a tip, don't bother with another stock brake line, get a custom made one from your local independent shop. If you get one with a few more inches of slack, it will make tire changes easier, as you can rotate the caliper down and out of the way.
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2011 - 11:49 am:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

I know this has been discussed before but I just changed my tires last week and you do NOT need to unbolt either caliper to remove the wheels... In the rear you just remove the hugger and lift the wheel upward until it slips out and In the front you remove the F fender and push the wheel back and then up until it clears... I had tried it once before but was too impatiant to get it, this time I took my time and it came right out no nicks or dings or scratches. Very easy and fast compared it the normal way.
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Nukeblue
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2011 - 01:20 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

xtreme +1

i discovered what those grooves are for on the back of the caliper lol the spokes!
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Froggy
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2011 - 01:26 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

That does not work easy depending on your muffler. Been there, done that. Plus you have to take off more fasteners to try it.
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Xtreme6669
Posted on Wednesday, September 21, 2011 - 04:55 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post View Post/Check IP Print Post    Move Post (Custodian/Admin Only) Ban Poster IP (Custodian/Admin only)

MUFFLER DOSE NOT MATTER, YOU JUST TURN THE WHEEL/BARS TO THE LEFT TO GET ENOUGH ROOM.
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