| Author | Message | ||
     Snackbar64 |
Just had the oil changed and the oil light came on and remained on as the bike idled. As I rod the bike it began to flicker as I climbed the rev range. It went off about 15 mins into my ride. Is this normal behavior after an oil change? | ||
| Dannybuell |
oil lights (red) should last < 20 seconds at startup. check the oil pump screen and oil level. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
no, i would take it back to the dealer that changed the oil, or if you did it yourself check the level. That light means the oil pump does not have proper oil pressure, which is usually caused by a low oil level. My oil light only comes on for 1 sec when the bike is started, if it lasts more then 5 sec, check the level. | ||
| Bextreme04 |
that light is red for a reason... it means you have no oil pressure... shut the bike off immediately and fix the problem. You obviously din't actually have a low oil pressure situation or you probably would have spun a bearing while "running it through the rev range". I would recommend you NEVER ride or drive anything that has an oil pressure light illuminated. Call the dealer and tell them the problem. If they tell you to ride it in and it frags it's on them but most likely they will come get it to avoid the possibility of damaging the motor. | ||
| Snackbar64 |
Thanks guys this is very helpful. The dealer would be liable if I blew the motor on the way home I suppose because they came out and checked it after I complained about the light being on and told me to ride it home as everything was fine. The light is no longer coming on anymore. Should I still return it to the dealer? I am about to check the oil. Would it send out a trouble code? | ||
| Snackbar64 |
I watched the guy put in at least two of the 3 quarts of mobil 1 until my attention was divided. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
The Helicon engine takes 2.7 quarts of oil with a filter change. No more, no less. NEVER have the dealer change your oil. It's so simple, even a caveman can do it. But many dealer wrenches are capable of screwing that up even! Many of them are distracted, disturbed, incompetent, or sometimes just forget. They don't have time to double check their work often enough. So do it yourself and do it right. It is very easy to do but it's also easy to screw it up! Checking oil level is easy too. Keep the bike upright, pull out the oil filler/dipstick and check. Oil level should be in between full and low lines when oil is hot. | ||
| Ratbuell |
The light IS the trouble code. It doesn't flash or set off an audible alarm when it gets "really bad". When its on...you have trouble. Period. | ||
| Snackbar64 |
Ok thanks Ratbuell. I certainly understand the urgency. did a hot check and my oil is a bit low. At this point I may as well change it myself. I need to get a pair of jack stands ASAP! The oil shows just above the add mark. How much should I add? | ||
| Two_seasons |
About 4oz tops. And make sure your oil is hot, as in at least a 30 minute ride. | ||
| Rogue_biker |
Warm up the engine (make sure oil light isn't going on while you're doing this). Check oil level while you are sitting on the bike and it is upright (level with the ground). Add oil in 4-8 ounce increments. Keep checking until the oil level sits in the middle of the dipstick. You don't have to change the oil all over again. My thinking is your dealer mechanic put 2 quarts in then got distracted, and forgot he needed to put another .7 quarts in. It happens. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
dealers suck as a general rule. I never trust them. Last time I had a dealer change the oil was when I had a sportster. They over filled it and I had to suck oil out the tank with a turkey baster after i got oil all over my jeans and boots on the ride home from the dealer. It was good to know the dealer did the test ride, ruined my air filter too(oil puked out of the air filter). |
