| Author | Message | ||
     Bensbike |
I was riding today and heard a clunk, did not think anything of it. A little later it came back and worse with minor loss of control. My bearings are shot at 4500 mi? Anyone had this happen to them? How well are the front are they going to go on me soon as well?   | ||
| Sprintst |
Well that certainly sucks. Still have a warranty on it? Ever high pressure wash the area? | ||
| Bensbike |
Yes it blows! No warranty, and no just normal washing with a hose and sprayer. | ||
| Sprintst |
Who has removed and reinstalled the rear wheel? I believe if it's overtorqued you can damage the spacer inside and overload the bearings | ||
| Froggy |
Common failure, especially if the axle is over-torqued or you frequently get the wheel wet. | ||
| Stirz007 |
Daaaannngg!! Them look boogered up. Better get some of them black ones. Orange is bad mojo. Good news is you got home OK and the axle is likely good to go. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
what about using something like this? http://www.bocabearings.com/bearing-inventory/Radi al-Bearings/8034/SMR6006C2YSC33-30x55x13 or this handy 2 pack http://www.bocabearings.com/search.aspx?ComponentItemID=8034&ProductGroupID=26 (Message edited by boogiman1981 on September 13, 2011) | ||
| Smoke |
easy fix with a couple of bearings. change both sides but it is always the sprocket side that fails so far for me. tim | ||
| Dirty_john |
Happened with the rear wheel of my 09 after 1700 miles, when removed from the wheel it was cleat that the failure was corrosion related, fitted a three bearing 2010 wheel and now we shall see what happens, great bike let down by penny pinching | ||
| Jdugger |
Boca Bearings makes a Hybrid product that will last a fair bit longer than the OEM bearings. The belt drive is really hard on the drive side. It will roach the journals of wheels, too. | ||
| Mountainstorm |
Mine failed but not that soon. The latest revision has black seals and so far so good (7K miles). | ||
| Paul08r |
Great I replaced the front wheel bearings at 6K, with the tires . Now I can expect the rear wheel bearings to go at any time ! Any thoughts on the swing arm bearings being under belt tension too ? Paul | ||
| Doogiehiser |
same thing happened to my bike at 7K. my bike is also an 08R. if you have'nt changed over to the 3 bearing wheel americansportbike.com is the only place i could find the right ones and the spacer in a hurry. they don't sell the complete axle kit for the 2 bearing wheel and there a different size. Part # 17320 XB/1125 rear wheel spacer 12.35 and # 17170 XB/1125 rear wheel bearings 47.10 sold as a set. Look under the brakes and wheels section | ||
| Avalaugh |
Just take the bearings to a local bearing shop, mine cost £7 each and I just replace them after each winter. | ||
| Sprintst |
So for us 2008 Anniversary folks, I take it we'd have to have the 3 bearing wheel recoated to match as well | ||
| Ratbuell |
I just replace them after each winter. Which is an excellent way to wear out the wheel hub. Pretty soon you will be able to pull and install new bearings without any tools. Think about it - steel bearing races vs. aluminum wheel. Which material is going to wear out first? Don't over-maintain. It can cause more problems than it fixes. | ||
| Jdugger |
Loctite 640! LOL... I'm giving it a go on my two ruined wheels. I had a machine shop sleeve the journal, but the sleeve backs out. So, in goes a new hybrid bearing using 640 on both the sleeve-to-wheel journal, and in between the new bearing outer race and sleeve. Hopefully it holds together. | ||
| Ratbuell |
Hopefully A word I try not to incorporate in my motorcycle wheels.... | ||
| Neufey |
try using metal set or JB weld on the bearings when setting it into the wheel journal. The loctite didn't seem to hold as well when I tried it where as the metal set is still working great. | ||
| Dannybuell |
I heard an old school guy speak on this subject years ago, knurling was mentioned as a means to secure the bearing. | ||
| Jdugger |
Which loctite compound did you use? | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
knurling may give additional initial grip but due to the reduced contact area i'd think it would be less reliable over time. i also don't think that you would be able to replace bearings without having the area 'reknurled' which isn't something many garages grease monkeys would have ability to do | ||
| Neufey |
I tried loctite 640 because I use it at work all the time and it works quite well on bushings and bearings usually. It just didnt seem to last more than 2 days of riding for me. Ill be pulling the rear wheel off in a few days and if I find the metal set didnt work Ill take it to the next level and use hysol 9309.3NA. If that doesnt hold it in solid I dont know what will. | ||
| Stirz007 |
I'd agree with Boog. Knurling is a temporary fix at best. But I guess it would beat having the bearing rotate or pop loose - at least for a while. Seems like sleeving it would be the way to go, short of replacing the wheel. JD - - was that sleeve press fit or shrink fit when installed? I've gotten into the habit of replacing after each track season, so want to have a 'plan B' in place when they inevitably start going in 'loose'. | ||
| Jdugger |
Press fit. I guess I'm mighty nervous about the 640 now... groan. I went ahead and used it between the sleeve and the wheel AND the sleeve and the bearing outer race. I don't really care how it gets held in there, as long as it stays  I'll find out soon enough. | ||
| Boogiman1981 |
The cast alum or mg sounds like it may be to soft for the conditions. Anybody making a forged or billet wheel for them? | ||
| Jdugger |
PVM. It's super-light, too. Forged Al and Mg both available. Costs around $2,000 delivered for Al. The OEM Buell wheels are just crappy wheels is what it comes down to. They are a low-cost product, and they are heavy. |
