| Author |
Message |
    
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 04:57 am: | 
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Sometimes the wiring to the cam sensor chaffs on a little metal tab inside the cam sensor mounting area. Check your wiring.
Put your coil up for sale here...
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/21/ 1020.html?1313643273
(Message edited by two_seasons on August 18, 2011) |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 09:38 pm: |
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No sensor in stock! Looking... Will start to take it apart anyway and look, perhaps you're right and I won't have to find one |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 02:50 pm: |
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Posted on Thursday, August 04, 2011 - 07:30 am:
First, unplug the 3-wire connector near the battery and check for shorts between them on the sensor side. Then see if the red pin on the module side has 12 volts with the key and kill switch on. Briefly short the two non-red wires on the module side together with the key on and check for spark. If spark is good and no shorts exist, drill the rivets out of the timing cover plate and unscrew the plate under it and sniff for burnt smell. After that, it's replace and re-try."
Check for spark at the plugs or between these two wires?? |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 03:06 pm: |
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No shorts on the sensor side.
Module side 6v @ red and @ green
(Message edited by Mstrfrz on August 25, 2011) |
Harleyelf
| | Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 06:48 pm: |
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Spark happens at the plugs. When it happens between wires we call it "arcing" or "oh, shit". Voltage is close enough to the 5v the computer uses. Can you see the wire bundle enough to be sure nothing has cut it? |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 06:53 pm: |
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Wires looked pretty old when I pulled the whole thing out. New sensor should be here next week. I think I'll add shielding as part of the new install. Put in a new O2 sensor too: it shouldn't have any more excuses after next week. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 05:57 pm: |
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Ok, new sensor installed and I THINK the problem is fixed! However, it now idles like crap! I aligned the new sensor identically to the old, so the timing should be correct, right? The idle adjuster has little effect, and it idles around 700rpm. |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 06:06 pm: |
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Anytime the cam sensor is removed static timing should be checked. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 07:29 pm: |
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Static timing? What should that be? |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 09:40 pm: |
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Well the plate that your cam sensor attaches to is the static timing plate, so there is a chance it could be off a little. And no 2 sensors are exactly a like so sensor reading will slightly vary.
I have never checked mine but it seems like a simple process. The process does require lifting the back end of the bike and bumping the start button with it in 5th gear and also ECMSpy and cable.
I'll have the process posted shortly. |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Monday, August 29, 2011 - 09:57 pm: |
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This is from the XB service manual but the process should be very similar.
 |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 09:30 am: |
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Supercool! Can this be done with a multimeter (I don't have a Digital Technician)? |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:12 am: |
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Do you have ECMSpy and a diagnostics cable? |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:16 am: |
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Yes, you can use a multimeter for this check/adjustment.
Do pull the spark plugs. This will make it easier to move the pistons.
Absolutely make sure you are on the front cylinder compression stroke and, looking into the timing plug, note that the timing mark will move from left to right. Follow the instruction above to a T.
If you don't have a switching polarity multimeter, you'll need to reverse the leads once you verify the +5VDC at the left side of the timing plug. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 10:56 am: |
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No ECMSpy. Where do I check this voltage? |
Terrys1980
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 11:13 am: |
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The cam sensor connector. Try pins 1 and 2 or 1 and 3. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 12:55 pm: |
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Ok, will try it tonite! |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 30, 2011 - 01:24 pm: |
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If the ignition is on, you will hear the fuel pump cycle on the instant you hit TDC as well. I seem to recall being able to see a little LED in there somewhere as well, but it's been a while since I did it. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 12:23 am: |
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Runs a LOT smoother now, but the idle is still weird. The adjuster knob just doesn't have any affect. Response is also a bit sluggish: I think I'll advance the timing a few degrees.
It seems to stumble a lot now. I'd guess a TPS reset is in order, or possibly I bothered some wiring that is now loose. Going to Lubbock tomorrow (in Houston now) and will be riding back on Monday. IF ANYONE HAS ANY INPUT it would be appreciated: limping 500 miles is not something I'm wanting to do! |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 02:38 am: |
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You should be ok after so many cycles of the ignition that the ECM sees.
If you are still running rough when you get back, by all means do a TPS reset. |
Reepicheep
| | Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 08:09 am: |
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Solve one problem at a time... I'd start with the idler adjustment. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Saturday, September 03, 2011 - 02:07 pm: |
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Retarded the timing a bit: much better. A little coughing thru the intake, though |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 12:46 pm: |
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Retarded even more: seems ok. Any chance of a TPS reset w/out ECMSpy? |
Two_seasons
| | Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 01:54 pm: |
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Nope.
But you could take it to a dealer for that service. |
Mstrfrz
| | Posted on Thursday, September 15, 2011 - 12:31 pm: |
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Going to a dealer ALWAYS sucks.
Fixing this problem seems to have unveiled others! Aaarrrgghhh! It runs great, sometimes, and I'm starting to question my fuel pump or it's wiring now.
(Message edited by Mstrfrz on September 15, 2011) |
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HELP!! HELP!! Rear cylinder misses
