| Author | Message | ||
     Dktechguy112 |
I'm looking at adding a fan to cool the voltage regulator. The fan I'm looking at runs at 12V and draws .76A with a power rating of 9.1W. The fan puts out 84.1 CFM. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999612 I want to wire it into the AUX connector(DC source in picture), so the fan will only turn on with the ignition. I also want to add a switch so that I can shut off the fan even when the ignition is off. I also added an LED and current limiting resistor in parallel, which will let me know if the fan has power.  I would like some input, is 10w going to be a strain on the electrical system for an 09. I know the 55w high beams drop the voltage, but would just 10w cause issues? | ||
| Two_seasons |
Not a problem with proposed fan current draw. Seems like a good idea as the location for the VR is poor. | ||
| 1_mike |
I connected mine to the tail light...and as you say, also to a switch. I normally don't turn it on on cold mornings, but afternoons...you bet. You can feel air coming out the "hole" in the bodywork. Has it made a difference...don't really know, but I feel better with some real cooling in there. The heat transfer to the subframe...just isn't enough..by my way of thinking. And this comes from an aerospace background, where we cool things similarly but different. Mike | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I have used that exact Vantec 80mm and it is ridiculously loud...like a jet plane. It does put out the claimed CFM according to independent tests, but at the price of a lot of noise. Just a heads up. I think active cooling the VR is a great idea. But I doubt that 84.5 CFM is really necessary. Getting a good sized heat sink on the VR would greatly increase the efficiency of any active cooling and (in theory) less air flow would be required for the same results. I may not be in rocket science, but I do know fans and heat sinks. | ||
| Dktechguy112 |
Mountainstorm, I do not know of any heat sinks that would fit the 1125's VR, do you? 1_mike, Which fan are you using? I don't think the tail light can handle an extra 10W. I just took a micro controller class. I was thinking I could program a micro controller to vary the fan speed based on temp, which would eliminate the need for the switch. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Dktechguy112 - Sounds like a great idea. | ||
| Froggy |
Just speculating, but I don't see why some stick on heatsinks designed for computer memory wouldn't work. Something like these: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N8 2E16835108071 | ||
| Mountainstorm |
I think Froggy nailed it. Use this Artic Silver Alumina Adhesive to install them to the cleaned surface and they will stay on. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835100013 I searched my totes for some old stock CPU heatsinks to cut up on the bandsaw but I guess they got scrapped. (Message edited by mountainstorm on September 12, 2011) | ||
| Hootowl |
Related thread http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/648244.html | ||
| Nukeblue |
looking at my cr it looks like you could get maybe four of those heat sink things stuck on the metal parts of the regulator. they're only 14mm square (approx 9/16 in) funny my regulator says ducati on it lol cool idea! | ||
| Nukeblue |
not to mention all the room on the back of the plate it mounts to | ||
| Hootowl |
The key to sink placement is to get them as close to the heat producing components as possible. The back plate probably does not have those components attached to it. I've never opened one up though. Most items like this have their major heat sources bolted to a built in heat sink, which is typically the case, and then the unit is filled with some kind of potting compound or RTV. The back is just a cover. If this is the case with the 1125 regulator, attaching a heat sink to the back plate would do very little good. Anybody ever opened one of these things up for a post mortem? | ||
| Dannybuell |
The stock R/R uses a silver heat sink paste on the surface that mates with the frame... | ||
| Hootowl |
So the part of the VR you can see (not the frame side) and therefore attach additional heat sinks to is not a good place for a heat sink, since the frame side is where the heat load is. Or am I thinking about this the wrong way? | ||
| Malott442 |
I had a similar problem with the VR on my daytona. Is the Buell MOSFET or solid state? I would ruin the good looks and mount it outside as a MOSFET set, not to mention eliminate any intermediate plugs, minimize wire length, all things that make a bike harder to produce on an assembly line. My 2002 955i came with a SS, about 6 ft. of 14gauge wire leading from the stator with 1 extra connection point, and only 1 12 gauge wire feeding into the battery with 3 more feet of wire. I streamlined the wire to less than 3 feet, increased to 12gauge, crimped AND soldered the plugs onto the wire, upgraded the output wire to dual 12 gauge, and used a 50 amp Yamaha R1 R/R. It runs cool in the trunk and 14v all day. MOSFET does not generate nearly as much heat as solid state. Might be worth looking at. | ||
| Froggy |
The OE regulator is solid state. | ||
| Nukeblue |
that thread hootowl posted showed a guy that put the heat sink on the plate the regulator mounts to. so if the heat sink paste is between the regulator and that back plate then that back plate is the sink surface. so in putting the x-tra sink on the plate it should help cool it? hell i don't know, if it was that easy wouldn't it be known by now? | ||
| Hootowl |
MOSFETs are solid state devices. Unless it has a tube in it, it is solid state. | ||
| Milezero5 |
I didnt put that thing there for shits and giggles. From how the vr felt before the heat sink and paste was replaced, it feels quite a bit better. Before I couldnt touch the plate or the vr for more than a few seconds, now I can hold my hand there all day, no matter if im riding or sitting at a light. Currently I have the harness still plugged in, while moving the voltage stays at 14.1-14.3, as soon as I stop or slow down it drops straight down to 12.4-12.7 then right back up again so I know the harness and everything is working fine. The stator cover also seems to be helping(In that link as well) since I have been riding in 100 plus degree heavy traffic in florida and the charging system has been working perfectly for me and im at 17k miles on the original stator. So for 10 bux at comp usa or tiger direct id say the heat sink works better than nothing, it also came with a cute little fan. | ||
| Nukeblue |
you misunderstand what i meant, of course i'm no good at putting my tone of voice in writing. i meant that "yeah, that would be where you would want to install the heat sink" on that plate. i think it's a good idea and i'm going to put a sink there also. no offence meant | ||
| Milezero5 |
none taken, i wasnt being defensive, just giving a update i guess. Ive always had trouble expressing tone voice either. lol  |
