Author |
Message |
Jconly
| Posted on Sunday, September 04, 2011 - 11:39 pm: |
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So this has happened to me two days in a row now.. Same scenario both times. Cruising along at highway speed, maybe for an hour or two each time.. all is well, and then the bike loses power, stops pulling. It's very brief, like 1 second max, and then continues to pull. I look down, check engine light is on, and then off again after maybe about 30 seconds. After I saw the check engine light each time, I rolled off the throttle, but not until after the the bike begins pulling again. The light has gone off after I roll off throttle, although I think it would have gone off regardless. Any thoughts on what's causing this? Thanks! |
Blitzer454
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 01:49 am: |
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Mine did the same thing until I replaced the ECM. The theory is that the ECM connector breaks from making contact with the seat pan. I brought an Eric Buell Racing ECM and relocated the ECM as shown in this thread: http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/142 838/629631.html On my bike the condition gradually got worse to the point the engine sometimes would cut out and not come back. If I cycled the ignition key the fuel pump would not prime. After leaving it sit for a few hours it work normally again. |
Nipsey
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 09:59 am: |
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Check the error codes -mine did the same on a 3 hour ride last week, exactly how you describe, twice. Error code 15 on ECMSpy. Have not had time to go in and look to see if there is a wire shorting out - code 15 = Air intake sensor shorted to supply voltage or open. |
Bluzm2
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 11:48 am: |
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When you check the error codes using ECM Spy, make sure you pull the history as well. Error codes that come and go suck. Found a head temp sensor failure last Friday by reviewing the error code history. |
Jconly
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 12:09 pm: |
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Well, it looks like I'm going to need to build myself a cable then to get that history. Has anyone seen any instructions posted on the topic before? Up until this point, I've just been using a piece of wire to read the codes on the dash. Now I'm wondering if it was my air temp sensor... I had a loose connection there a while back that I reinforced with some solder. Maybe it's come loose. I'll check out that ECM too, fingers crossed that's not the issue. For some reason I doubt it though. Thanks guys. |
Blitzer454
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 01:02 pm: |
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FWIW mine never stored any codes, not even in the history, until one day driving to work it cut out for longer than usual. I noted that the engine light stayed on the rest of the way to work. When I left work to drive home the light was not on and the drive home was normal. But when I checked for codes there was a bad ECM code stored in the history. But all the other times when the engine would cut out for just a second or two or even the times when the engine would not run and the fuel pump would not prime it never stored a code. |
Jconly
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 01:08 pm: |
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Yea, since I had no light pop up when restarting the bike, I was under the impression that no codes were stored. I'll check regardless though. |
Djohnk
| Posted on Monday, September 05, 2011 - 02:36 pm: |
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I bet it's the ECM. Thats how mine started to go... seat pan starts to flex more as it heats up ... pushes down on the gray ecm connector. You won't see the crack unless you take the seat off and apply gentle downward pressure on the gray connector and look at the epoxy between the ecm body and the connector under good light. Let me know if that was what it was. |
Jconly
| Posted on Thursday, September 08, 2011 - 10:06 pm: |
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Well, I took a good look at my ECM today. I couldn't find any signs of cracking or wear, except of course on the little block that sits slightly above the ECM. It doesn't seem that this is the issue. Or at least I'm hoping not. I've been riding the bike for my daily commute though, and have not experienced the problem since (although my daily commute is generally only a 45 min, NYC commute.. stop go stop go.) I have also been occasionally experiencing a popping sound and lack of power as I apply throttle and let out the clutch from a stop. I wonder if this has anything to do with it? It could just me my clutch / throttle timing being off every now and then as I get ready to take off once the light turns green... But basically when I give it gas and let out the clutch, it will hesitate and sputter a little.. I'll pull the clutch back in, give a little more throttle and slip it out more to take off. Don't know... any suggestions? I do have this Saturday off work though, and am planning on heading straight from work tomorrow (Friday) in Manhattan to camping for the night in Montauk, LI. Maybe I'll experience the check engine light again on my longer ride tomorrow night / Saturday. We'll see, but I'll keep you guys posted in hopes of diagnosing this issue. Thanks again all. |
Djohnk
| Posted on Saturday, September 10, 2011 - 09:29 am: |
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"I have also been occasionally experiencing a popping sound and lack of power as I apply throttle and let out the clutch from a stop. I wonder if this has anything to do with it? It could just me my clutch / throttle timing being off every now and then as I get ready to take off once the light turns green... But basically when I give it gas and let out the clutch, it will hesitate and sputter a little.. I'll pull the clutch back in, give a little more throttle and slip it out more to take off." I have been having this same problem, I am watching this thread to see if anyone has some input/solutions. |
Mesozoic
| Posted on Wednesday, October 19, 2011 - 02:25 am: |
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An ECM doesn't just go bad... this sounds exactly like a bad ground issue. I added a new groundstrap between the engine and the ground plane underneath the battery and things are running great. Had an O2 sensor code - replacing it didn't help. Was definitely a ground problem. Brand new bike, 2008. |
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