Author |
Message |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 09:31 am: |
|
Good morning Guys, for starters I'll give you guys details on the bike. 2009 1125R e b r ecm, fmf apex slip on, K&N filter, 11,000 miles. No check engine codes came on either! I installed a race ecm about two weeks ago. I love how the bike is performing but I've noticed the bike stalls more often!? At stoplights if I dont twist the throttle just right the bike stalls. This past sunday I was coming to a intersection and I was turing right. I downshifted to first slowly let out the clutch and the bike stalled and locked up the back tire. I can make it do it like clock work now! everytime I slowly let out the clutch while coasting at like 20 mph it stalls. Can something be done to fix this? Its getting very annoying and stalling in mid corner sounds like a disaster waiting to happen! Any info on fixing this would be greatly appreciated! Have a nice day guys. |
Bueller_bjorn
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 09:42 am: |
|
Have you tried a TPS reset? |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 10:10 am: |
|
Whoops forgot to mention it but yes I've done it twice... |
Stwings
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 10:24 am: |
|
Does it stall only when cornering? If so it could be a faulty sensor that cuts the fuel in the event of a tip over/low side. Just a thought. |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 11:08 am: |
|
no just when slowing down in general. If the clutch isnt fully engaged or disengaged it wants to stall. |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 11:15 am: |
|
quote:If so it could be a faulty sensor that cuts the fuel in the event of a tip over/low side. Just a thought
If the bike thinks it tipped, it will display on "TIPOVER" or something similar on the dash and flash the 4 way lights. The Race ECM has different algorithms for controlling the idle. On the stock ECM, when you go to let out the clutch, it raises the idle a bit, the Race ECM does not do this as much, and as result can be easier to stall. |
Reducati
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 11:37 am: |
|
i have a 09cr, fmf, race ecm, and mine was behaving like yours. i have 9000 miles, and at stop lights, or coasting to a stop it would sometimes stall out. i had the harness updated at 500 miles, and still have the original stator. about 800 miles ago, i did the 2 minute bypass of the harness update ( video on badweb), and whilst at stop lights , idliling, my volts were near 12.1, with the harness removed, my volts are near 14 even at long stop lights...now, i dont have any stalling, when the light turns green, nor any problems when coasting up to a light, and clutch pulled in/ out..hope that helps. ect. |
Mountainstorm
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 11:37 am: |
|
My advice to to put a few hundred miles on the bike and then see what the ECM does. Mine ran better and better as time went by. I am no ECM expert but it sure seems that mine "learned" some settings and now it's perfect. |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 11:39 am: |
|
I believe the bike uses a idle air control valve (IACV)(emissions)...with the throttle body butterfly valves closed the IACV opens and supplies air for idle speed - all controlled by the ECM...there are MANY threads about this concerning engine braking (do a search) here is one where the idle speed is a topic - I believe similar set up to yours george http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290 431/568173.html bottom line: sounds like the connection to the ECM or the IACV is loose or missing...chk your ECM connection... good luck |
Ohsoslow
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 12:00 pm: |
|
does the bike start right back up? |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 02:09 pm: |
|
Well I've been running the ecm for a few weeks and it didn't do it for 800 miles. Then it did it once last sunday. about 300 miles later (last night) it did it several times I have to either completely engage or disengage the clutch if I downshift to first and coast it happens as soon as I let the clutch partially out. The bike didn't operate like this last week that is why I am concerned and I feel that its a fixable issue! Any other ideas on the fix would be appreciated! |
Froggy
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 02:15 pm: |
|
Go into diagnostics mode and check that the clutch switch goes from 0 to 1 as you squeeze and release the lever. |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 04:27 pm: |
|
It does froggy... |
Nuts4mc
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 04:40 pm: |
|
...almost hate to bring it up... a) how old is the battery? b) charge the battery overnite - does it solve the idle/dying issue?...go to (f) c) under no load (take the batt cables off) what is the voltage reading? d) with the battery hooked up and engine running (at idle) what is the voltage? e) engine running at 3000 rpm what is the voltage? f) don't have the time or patience for b,c,d,e? - put in a fresh/new battery and see what happens good luck ...again (Message edited by nuts4mc on August 31, 2011) |
S21125r
| Posted on Wednesday, August 31, 2011 - 04:56 pm: |
|
I was kind of thinking along the same lines that Froggy was headed - that the effects of the clutch state on IAC steps is doing something strange to the fuel mixture. Not that this is a fix, but might help narrow the focus - temporarily disconnect the clutch switch and see if you have the same symptom. |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 10:28 am: |
|
Nuts a)at least a year d)13.5-14 e)same as d I will answer the others when I can do it s21125r How do I disconnect it? |
S21125r
| Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 11:41 am: |
|
There are two bundles of wires that go to the left bar. One bundle goes to switch gear for headlights/horn and a smaller bundle goes directly to the Master Cylinder. Look on the underside of the MC and you should find a quick disconnect. |
Georgehitch17
| Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 08:42 pm: |
|
It stopped doing it after unplugging the clutch wire. I haven't plugged back in yet to verify but so far its back to normal! |
Froggy
| Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 08:52 pm: |
|
Ok that confirms what I suspected, I believe your clutch switch is acting up, and occasionally "lying" to the bike making it think you are squeezing when you aren't or vice versa, as result it gets confused and will stall under some conditions. The switch is cheap, replace it and enjoy |
Brumbear
| Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 09:06 pm: |
|
Well guys I been without power for 5 days now only generator so I am kinda in a bummed out mood but I needed a laugh so I remembered this and looked it up. Here is NOT how to fix your bike George http://www.zxforums.com/forums/zx-6r-forum/14462-f i-light-need-help.html |
Jcjohnson33
| Posted on Thursday, September 01, 2011 - 09:37 pm: |
|
That's funny lol ha ha ha ha ha |
Jules
| Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 06:27 am: |
|
LMAO - that's so funny! |
S21125r
| Posted on Friday, September 02, 2011 - 10:38 am: |
|
George - one more thing to check would be the IAC tube that runs up next to the throttle linkages and into the airbox. Make sure it's not kinked or obstructed. **Purely speculation** Seems to me that in neutral or clutch in the IAC is in a feedback loop, but when in gear and clutch out it goes to a fixed setpoint based on gear, RPM or both to perform engine brake duties. So if there is junk in the tube, it's possible that the feedback loop can compensate, but the fixed set point can not. Or it could be the funky switch like Froggy said :-) |
|