Author |
Message |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 09:26 pm: |
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As stated, I have an '09 XB9SX. It has 8k miles. I just got back from my motorcycle club meeting. On the way back the check engine light was on, then off, in steady minute blocks or so with intermittent (jerking) power delivery. I just finished a ride from Mt Vernon (Northern Washington) to California. Prior to the trip (about 4.5k miles) I changed the oil. When I was down there, 5-6k miles, I performed the 5k mile service with a friend who has owned a Buell for a long time. I cannot think of anything that we did that might have had an effect. I say this as there were no problems with the bike on the return trip up to Mt Vernon. When I got back, I took a week or two off the bike to relax. This problem has only just shown up since I decided to start riding again. I have only taken my bike around town for short distances since the trip, maybe once or twice. Any advice direction would be very appreciated. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Thursday, August 18, 2011 - 11:15 pm: |
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Check your trouble codes. Sounds like a Bank Angle Sensor issue. |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 09:18 am: |
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If its a BAS issue you can disable it with ECMSpy or Tunerpro and the problem should go away. |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 09:12 pm: |
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How would I go about checking this? I don't have the electrical diagnosis book. Should I order it? If I do, should I also get some special tool to read the trouble code? |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 09:27 pm: |
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To check the BAS you need to check the resistance between pins A and C on the sensor behind the front fairing. If the resistance is greater than 1M ohm the BAS is bad. BAS trouble code is 44 You not need a special tool, only a piece of wire to short pins 1 and 2 on the diagnostics port. Although every Bueller should own an ECMSpy cable. To retrieve trouble codes have a look at this.
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Andrewlind87
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2011 - 01:03 pm: |
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Resistance between pins A and C was 19.4kOhms. However I don't know where the diagnostic wires are at, or where to connect them. I'm going to order the trouble code dongle and ECM spy from American Sport Bike. (Message edited by andrewlind87 on August 22, 2011) |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2011 - 01:38 pm: |
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Trouble Code is 16. One website said that was an improper voltage condition. It also said that the codes stay in the memory for 3 years. Not too long ago I had issues with short rides to school draining the battery. This might be a left over. (Message edited by andrewlind87 on August 22, 2011) |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2011 - 01:45 pm: |
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Code 16 is low battery voltage. Could be a dead battery or faulty charging circuit. (Message edited by TerryS1980 on August 22, 2011) |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2011 - 03:41 pm: |
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Voltage at terminals was 12.45 volts |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Monday, August 22, 2011 - 04:02 pm: |
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Try searching for some threads on troubleshooting the stator and voltage regulator. |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 05:33 pm: |
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I just did a ride with a multimeter connected to the battery terminals. Luckily the problem showed its head eventually. Voltages were as follows Prior to start: 12.61 After start: 14.10 Running/Riding: 14.25 During fluctuation/problem: ~11-13 Lowest: 10.86 After Shutoff: 12.88 Is this is a voltage regulator or stator problem then? (Message edited by andrewlind87 on August 24, 2011) |
Terrys1980
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 06:12 pm: |
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One or the other or the 77 connector. Pull the front sprocket cover and have a look at the connector. There are a bunch of threads on this. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Wednesday, August 24, 2011 - 08:32 pm: |
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Have you ever looked under the voltage regulator to see if the power output terminal screw is tight? Your stator is fine. For gratuitous verification, unplug the regulator from the stator and set the multimeter to AC volts. If you have 28 - 54 volts as you rev from idle to 3000 rpm, you have good alternator output and no need to open the primary case. There's a loose connection somewhere. |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Thursday, August 25, 2011 - 11:51 pm: |
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Power output terminal screw? I have no idea where that is and its not listed in my manual. There are only two connectors comming off the VR, one to the stator and one to the battery/fuse box |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 12:09 am: |
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Yes, to the battery is the power output. It might not be underneath the VR like my S3, but it will be the single wire. Held on by some kind of screw which sometimes comes loose and causes irregular voltage to get to the battery. I couldn't see mine until I took the VR off and looked under it. The other connector is where you look for the 28 - 54 volts AC across the two wires from the stator.. |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 12:36 am: |
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I started it and got 27-51 volts, from idle to 3k rpm. |
Harleyelf
| Posted on Friday, August 26, 2011 - 06:25 pm: |
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Perfect. There's nothing wrong with your stator or rotor. Now you need to follow the power to the fuse box and verify the integrity of every wire and every quick-disconnect junction. No need to actually look at every inch of wire, just seeing that the cable housing is undisturbed is plenty for this operation. If power fluctuates at the voltage regulator, go no further; that's your issue. If the regulator is good, it's a wire, connection, or fuse. Get a manual and follow the schematic til the power gets to the battery. Take the connectors apart and look for dead bugs between pins and sockets. |
Andrewlind87
| Posted on Sunday, August 28, 2011 - 04:54 pm: |
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Thanks for everything, I'm going to buy a new VR and try that. All of the wires looked good from what I could tell. |
Mesozoic
| Posted on Tuesday, October 11, 2011 - 11:03 pm: |
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Sounds like a ground plane issue to me. Redo the grounds. Had the same problem. |