| Author |
Message |
    
Oldog
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2011 - 03:09 pm: | 
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Rider
you would not need to shim the iso the mount is flexible,
the mounting surfaces on the head must be flat, smooth, and parallel. if the mount bracket does not clamp flat down and produce the correct stretch on the bolts they will snap (again)
the front iso is easy to do the rears are not bad on an X1,
I would inspect all three of them closely
if the rear isos are OE replace them |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 09, 2011 - 04:49 pm: |
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"Have you guys pulled this off successfully in the frame"
Yep, my S3T was purchased in similar condition.
"Heating up the head with a torch"
That's what the heat from welding a nut to the protruding bolt will do and why I recommended drilling the other. |
Essmjay
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 12:25 am: |
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Just bad engineering. There is no reason why the front of a motorcycle should fall apart from a hole in the road. After this has happened to so many owners it is time to just admit that it should have been designed better. There is no point in defending it, it is history, kind of like having your '69 BSA grenade on you, or getting familiar with Lucas, Prince of Darkness. It was just a poor solution to a design question. The factory was just putting together what they were given to work with.
Shane |
Oldog
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 08:47 am: |
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Just bad engineering. There is no reason why the front of a motorcycle should fall apart from a hole in the road.
perhaps
there may have been alternatives that either were heavier or cost more or had other problems, working with HD had to have been a challenge all by its' self
hey JR we batted one of your ideas around maybe it needs another look .. } |
Psykick_machanik
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 12:32 pm: |
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Be careful when heating up the head/bolts with a torch. dont want to get things too hot.
getting those bolts out can be done on the bike. having access and a clear line of sight is the key.
i recomend doing whatever you need to do to get the job done to your 100% satisfaction. i took a short cut and payed the price DEARLY. this is one of those "do it right the first time" things. |
Nwrider
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 05:14 pm: |
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I won't be touching this till next week but will attempt it in the frame. If it gets dodgy I will pull the head. For obvious reasons I would like this to be as quick, easy and painless as possible but on the flip side don't want to take a shortcut I will pay for later. 
Is that little link that looks like a tie-rod (sorry I dunno the name) there for a reason other than keeping the engine from falling out when these bolts snap? Hehehe. I originally thought it was a torque rod type thing but... sideways? I suppose its just for left to right support. Take the sideways stress off the head and iso. Just curious. |
Psykick_machanik
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 06:01 pm: |
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i figured it was there to align the engine and frame. sounds good i guess. |
Jramsey
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 06:47 pm: |
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"Is that little link that looks like a tie-rod (sorry I dunno the name) there for a reason other than keeping the engine from falling out when these bolts snap? Hehehe. I originally thought it was a torque rod type thing but... sideways? I suppose its just for left to right support. Take the sideways stress off the head and iso. Just curious."
Its called the "Uni-Planer mount system" it allows the engine to be 3 point rubber mounted and lets the engine to move in the longitudinal(front/back) plane but not laterally(sideways), the adjustable rod ends are called tie bars in the Buell world.
And yes they align the engine in the frame. |
Nwrider
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 10, 2011 - 06:47 pm: |
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If it was not there I think the motor could fall down and hit the pavement.. which would be very exciting at speed. |
Nwrider
| | Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 03:16 pm: |
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So I am going to tackle my broken bolts tonight and realized I am going to have to pull the front iso "y" bracket for clearance. I have read to jack the motor up from the underside but I don't have a center stand (gotta work on the side stand). I was thinking I could support and lift the motor in the frame with a ratcheting tie-down. Anyone taken this approach? with the tank off I could loop over the top of the frame I think. |
Psykick_machanik
| | Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 05:15 pm: |
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the rachet straps might squeze the frame rather than lift the engine.
i had the muff off and used a bottle jack under the case with a chunk of wood between the jack and case. was easy and had very good control.
id pull the header also. the more access the better. |
Kalali
| | Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 05:37 pm: |
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If you just need to raise the motor an inch or so you won't need to remove anything. There is enough room in front part of the case to slide a bottle/scissor jack under there. You still need to put a piece of wood in between to avoid punching a hole in the case. That's how I raised the motor when I replaced my front ISO (not the Y bracket). |
Akbuell
| | Posted on Friday, August 19, 2011 - 09:02 pm: |
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I use a 24" long piece of 1/2" bar stock (or old rebar,ect) run through the rear axle and propped up on frame stands as a 'center stand'. Nice and stable.
+1 on the block of wood and a bottle jack. You only need to pick the engine up enough to line up the bolts w/the holes. |
Nwrider
| | Posted on Sunday, August 21, 2011 - 01:33 am: |
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That was a hell of a lot easier than I thought. Woohoo.... the work I HAD to do got done and a lot of work I WANTED to do got done. Good day. Thanks for the tips and info guys! |
