| Author | Message | ||
     Nwrider |
Nice ride today... luckily this happened 2 blocks from my house. Hit a pot hole... jarred me but not too severe... But severe enough to snap both of these babys!!! Bike started vibrating like a... well.. a Harley. Pull in my driveway to discover this! What a pain in the ass this will be. Sigh.  (Message edited by NwRider on August 07, 2011) | ||
| Sgtshap |
Do you have Grabit kit or a bolt extractor? | ||
| Nwrider |
Not personally but I just texted my friend who probably does. Do I need to go support my engine? Its wedged up against the Y bracket. I hope I am not putting any strain on anything hanging there like that. Were these bolts or studs with nuts? I dont recall. | ||
| Nwrider |
There is a little thread left on this one. Not enough to jamb 2 nuts together on but maybe enough to get a hold of. Not a huge deal... but something I didn't really want to deal with. I am surprised they snapped so easily. The only thing I could thing of is them being over torqued. Or grade 5 bolts. Pretty certain they have not been touched since original assembly of this bike.  (Message edited by NwRider on August 07, 2011) | ||
| Jramsey |
Special grade 12 bolt marked f911. 7/16x 14tpi x2-3/4 long. Pricey, about $25 a pair from Al. I wouldn't use an easy out or you might be removing the head and sending it to someone like me to remove the broken extractor and repair. If you try the easy out method use heat to help break loose the oem loctite bond and proceed with caution. The right bolt should come out after a nut is threaded on and welded, the left will require drilling dead CENTER and chasing with a tap. (Message edited by Jramsey on August 08, 2011) | ||
| Nwrider |
Thanks Jramsey I will order them from Al rather than hit up my local auto parts store and use a grade 8. I didn't even know grade 12 existed?!? You say I shouldn't attempt an ez-out eh? I am nervous to booger up the threads if I can't drill it dead center. Like every snapped bolt its at an angle and I can see the drill bit walking. I can try and use a punch to get a dimple dead center. Last thing I want to do is have to heli-coil it. Happen to know the torque? | ||
| Nwrider |
Al has an extractor kit listed right next to the bolts! I am guessing I am not the only one this has happened to. Looks like a drill bit and something similar to an EZ-out... Your thoughts on this Jramsey? Thanks!!! | ||
| Jramsey |
The procedure is new bolts and hard washers, clean all threads with mek,brakeclean etc. Red Loctite 271 on threads, oil on washers torque to 60 ft.lbs, back off 1 turn then re torque to 60 ft. lbs. | ||
| Nwrider |
Thank you kind sir. I am going to enjoy a frosty cold beverage now and not be annoyed. Thanks again man! | ||
| Oldog |
Check those mounting faces if they are not flat the head must come off for repair | ||
| Oldog |
BTW Rider what was the mileage? | ||
| 5liter |
Been there, done that. Make sure your pilot hole is straight or you will have a problem. | ||
| Buellistic |
FRONT MOTOR MOUNT/ISOLATOR Class 101, just PM me if you want a copy ... | ||
| Xl1200r |
Check your front iso. I bought my bike with a busted bolt there and it was caused by a whooped isolator. | ||
| Psykick_machanik |
been there. id recommend only using an ezout if you have experience in using them, or find someone who does. I have TONS of experience in using them and still managed to do this. I got in a hurry and didnt drill the bolt straight. the only saving grace is i didnt break the ezout in the hole  | ||
| Nwrider |
8500 miles... the iso looks fine.. other than its crooked now from the motor pushing on the y. The surface of the left mount has a good burr where the bolt drug across it... hoping a file will clean it up and I can chase the last few threads. | ||
| Nwrider |
Ouch psychik... new head time eh? | ||
| Court |
In reading the title of the thread ..... I thought something had been over torque at the factory. I was relieved to read the thread ad confirm that was not the case. I have my broken head sitting on my desk. I did it by severe impact as well. | ||
| Buellistic |
Is this another one of those: If that was not done that would have never happened ... By the way "i" am still waiting on your answer ??? | ||
| Kalali |
Thinking through the frame geometry, I take it the pot hole was bad enough to cause the front forks to bottom out, transfer the entire force up to the front isolator and the reaction force snapped the bolts. Much easier to snap these bolts than break the center isolator bolt; tension vs. shear. | ||
| Fahren |
JRamsey, how hot does a head get? I wouldn't think it would get to over the 500-degree limit for Loctite red, though, right? At least not at the bolt locations. | ||
| Nwrider |
Court.. I titled it as such prior to learning this is a common occurrence. I have had bolts snap due to me over torquing them before.  I was just trying to figure out the cause so this would not happen again. Buellistic.. Thanks for the info! Kalali.. I came no where near bottoming out the forks (I think). It was actually uneven pavement due to road construction in my neighborhood. Thanks to a shadow (or maybe it was a cute girl on the sidewalk) I did not see it until I smacked it. I would think riding a wheelie would create a harder impact. I don't wheelie. I am all grow'd up. Are the bolts the same or have they been improved? Like I said I didn't know grade 12 even existed. Thanks for the help guys.. I really appreciate it. | ||
| Court |
I figured as much about the title......just wanted, for the befit of someone reading a year from now, to make it clear they were not over torques at the factory. It's quite a special bolt and procedure. Be certain, as you put it back together, to make certain you have current and accurate information. | ||
| Buellistic |
"YES", by all means make sure the FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL is "CORRECT" as there is(was) no way to correct wrong FSM's !!! BUELL SERVICE CENTERS might not have or be able to find their BMC up-date information !!! (Message edited by buellistic on August 08, 2011) | ||
| Msr203 |
I have had my share of broken off studs and bolts, if it's snapped down in these work great for center punching http://grizzly.com/products/G5651 | ||
| 4traxx |
should I remove the stock bolts from mine Replace them with the grade 12 bolts from Al American Sport Bike? | ||
| Jramsey |
The ones that Al sells are the oem bolts. | ||
| Oldog |
look closely at the right hand mount pad on the head as you face it its probably all chewed up, ( parts were loose ), this over loads the left which causes the bolt to snap IMPORTANT: the mounting surfaces on the mount and head MUST BE FLAT, and parallel or another failure will result, there is a proper procedure to follow installing the mount and new bolts failure to follow it will result in a do over ... | ||
| Dave_02_1200 |
Michael, Before you start working on removing the studs, soak them with some good penetrating oil like Kroil, JB Blaster, or Liquid Wrench for a day or two. Then as others have recommended, apply heat to expand the aluminum head and soften any remaining Lock Tite. That will make the job go much more smoothly and give a greater chance of success. (DAMHIK) Good luck. Dave | ||
| Nwrider |
Thanks again everyone for the info and tips. You guys rock. Have you guys pulled this off successfully in the frame or should I just plan on pulling my head? Heating up the head with a torch, can I damage the finish by touching it with an open flame? Oldog... worst case scenario if I had to machine the mating surfaces on the head would I have to shim them so the ISO doesnt sit at an odd angle. Sounds like precision is a must to insure this is successful. Thanks again guys. I thought I was aware of most of the common issues. I still love my X1. Oh... one last thing... My ISO looks fine and if I recall correctly the 2001 had the updated ISO already. While its apart would you guys replace it anyway? Again.. Thanks guys. I owe you all a beer next time you are in the Northwest! |
