| Author | Message | ||
     Cyclonecharlie |
Anybody have the set-up spec's for the Penske rear shock on a Tuber? Just purchased a used one and don't have a clue. | ||
| Jim2 |
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/384 2/292819.html?1185557707 (Message edited by jim2 on July 20, 2011) | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Jim2, Thanks for the info, that helps. But I also need to know how much sag to set for the preload,so if you or anybody has that I'd be set.....thanks again | ||
| Mick |
have a go with this . http://www.gostar-racing.com/information/motorcycl e_suspension_set-up.htm | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Mick, Thanks alot, will make for some really good reading. At 70 yrs. old my racing dreams have long vanished, but still good info for reference. Do you have any Buell/Penske/M2 specific info that would help? Thanks again | ||
| Jayvee |
How much do you weigh, with gear on? | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
JV, Not proud to say....probably in the 290 range. If I can get the sag right, the rest I can feel out. Just don't know where to set the sag. Also if anybody has a front bracket(16+)can't believe I gave my old one away. | ||
| 14d |
The procedure for setting the preload should be the same as the one listed in the FSM. | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Kyle, I'm looking for spec's, the procedure is the easy part.  | ||
| Gowindward |
Specs will be in FSM. For the 14.5" it is 15.25 to 15.50" shock eye to eye with bike loaded IIRC | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Gowindward, I've got the FSM....what I'm trying to find out is the spec's for the 16+ Penske shock. I don't want to assume that they are the same. | ||
| 14d |
Setting the sag is based on a percentage of total suspension travel so it should be the same no matter the shock as long as they are the same length. 17-17.4" according to my FSM (2000 X1 with 16.7 shock). | ||
| 14d |
Oh and btw congrats on the Penkse, I'm sure you and your bike will be very happy with it.  | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Thanks Kyle, been wanting one for a long time. | ||
| Maru |
Sag adjustment are not really that big of a deal. What you are doing is proportioning a percentage of the suspension to bumps/dips. Generally on roadracers, you want about 20 to 25mm of total sag in the rear. That would work out to about an inch. Streetbikes tend to work better with between 30 and 35mm of total sag or about an inch and a third give or take a smidge. Total sag is sometimes called something else, but I am referring to the difference between fully topped out and sag with rider on board. (Message edited by maru on July 23, 2011) | ||
| Maru |
Free sag measurements or rider free are mostly about assessing your spring rate. As a general rule, if you have no free sag, your spring rate is too low if you have to wind up the spring that much to get the correct total sag. It would not surprise me if you end up with no free sag at 290, even if in theory the shock was custom built. Don't worry about it, 125gp bikes always have no free sag because the bikes are so light compared to the rider/bike wt. (Message edited by maru on July 23, 2011) | ||
| Maru |
In general a bike with no total sag (something you are unlikely to have to worry about) will be a handful because the tire will have a hard time remaining in contact with the ground in the dips if you are hustling. If you have way too much total sag, the bike would be prone to bottoming and would squat too much driving off a corner with the gas on. Other than that, if you are anywhere between an inch and an inch and a half, you will be fine. Subtle tuning of front and rear sag is a tuning function. You generally want a bit more sag in the front than the back and an inch and a half is a good place to start. You will love what a Penske does for a Tuber. Steve (Message edited by maru on July 23, 2011) | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Thanks for the info Steve....just another reason to stay away from the pizza and | ||
| Cyclonecharlie |
Anybody have any good photos of the routing and mounting of the remote reservoir for the Penske? Would really appreciate it. |
