| Author | Message | ||
     Kinder |
So I'm back to stock header for now. Was missing power so figured I'd start over from stockish. Bike is an o9 CR and has Easy's stacks, Barker exhaust, newly cleaned K&N, New Brisk silver plugs, PCV w. autotune and Erik Buell RacingBarker ECM. 22000km (13750 miles) Bike pulls fine till about 9000rpm then acts like it's bouncing off the rev limiter. Does this with both the PCV set to zero map ( no adjustments done) and with the new fuel trims from the autotuner. At anything over 40% throttle it's set to add or subtract fuel to achieve a 13.1-13.2 AFR. Ideas? I'm thinking plugs or valves as it's due for adjustment. (Message edited by kinder on July 17, 2011) | ||
| Dannybuell |
I thought you didn't need an Erik Buell Racing ECM and a power commander at the same time. I would suggest you start with out the PCV or autotune just the ebr ecm. | ||
| Bueller4ever |
Doesn't brisk only make racing plugs, which don't last nearly as long as a regular spark plug? | ||
| Kinder |
Danny: bike does same thing with PCV set to a zero map. That means it doesn't do anything. Bueller: they make silver tipped plugs and while they don't last as long as plat or iridium they shouldn't die within a few hundred kilometers. | ||
| Dannybuell |
Testing requires a base to begin with. Stock is usually a good place to start. In your case the Erik Buell Racing ECM - Barker combination are proven so it is a good base. From everything I have read here in the last 1.5 years the PCV is one of many in the marketplace that by design piggybacks with the stock ECM. This class of helpers is seen as an alternative the Erik Buell Racing ECM. Doing both seems unnecessary. | ||
| Kinder |
The plan is to use the Race ECM as a base line since I have the stacks with are not part of the Erik Buell Racing tune and will be experimenting with the air box intake and box itself. Also I'm at elevation here and a ride can range from 1000' to 5000' above sea level. The PCV can help keep the afr's in check and allows or better balancing between cylinders. But that's a future thing. Right now I want to figure out why my bike acts like 9000 is the redline. (Message edited by kinder on July 17, 2011) | ||
| Nuts4mc |
1) buy a vacuum gauge hook it into a vacuum line(clutch assist/slipper line?) go here to learn about readings: http://www.secondchancegarage.com/public/186.cfm that would tell you about valves most "tight" leaky valves affect low rpm with hard starting or irregular idle - if they're tight the valves are letting compression out at low RPMs..at high RPMs thing are happening so fast - you would hear a back fire if the valves were leaking so bad that it would affect the RPMs. (that is it would never reach 9000 IMO) 2)Fuel - how old is it? - have you run any Injector cleaner or water remover in the tank? - it gets cold up by you...condensation in the "tank" even happens down here...it would make it hard to start sometimes but once it catches it may run fine until the pump started picking up water. Is the tank vent clear? no kinked hoses? if the tank can't "breathe" it will act like a lean or fuel starvation issue 3) ignition coils - try a new set...did you crack or break anything when you put in the new plugs in? 4) electrical power...are you using up the available power with the PCV that is needed to fire the plugs at that RPM?...do you have any other accessories running ( heated grips?) 5) PCV does it connect to the Injectors? is the connection good and tight? 6) "0" map ? _ I never had luck with "0" maps on my PC 3 and my Vstrom always had to run at least the 01 map to get acceptable results 5) find a Dyno shop that is willing to trouble shoot it for you... good luck PS I run from sea level to 7000 feet ( Big Bear Lake, Ca.) with stock exh and air cleaner and race ECM...bike pulls hard all the way to red line (10K RPM) (Message edited by nuts4mc on July 17, 2011) |
