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Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Saturday, July 02, 2011 - 11:55 pm: |
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The 2" barbed hose fitting was perfect size for the 06' ULY seal. If it is close then just wrap some tape around it to make for a more custom fit. |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 02:23 am: |
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Part 2. The real work begins. As predicted by UPS the seal and the fork oil were waiting for me when I arrived home from work. Given that I had a particularly crappy 11 hour day, and needing something to relax besides creating yet another PowerPoint slide, right after dinner I popped into the garage (I'll be in here for a bit sweety, you don't mind doing the dishes do you?) and began. You'll recall from the earlier post (actually, you don't have to recall it, just go read it if you give a rip) that I had pulled everything apart. As I mentioned before, I think the manual is particularly crappy in this section, there's a lot of paging back and forth and I'm not the most patient guy in the world so but here we go. First step was to hacksaw the field engineered seal pounder-inner in half. Once accomplished, I realized that my worst fears were realized, the damn thing was too small on the ID. See, the forks on the 06 are 43mm and the forks on the 08 (mine) are 47mm. On top of that, I learned at the hardware store that couplers are like 2X4s, the size is actually smaller than the dimensions. Strangely, while the ID was too small to fit correctly on the tubes, the OD was too big to fit into the outer tube, turning the whole exercise into a sort of three stooges skit if there was only one stooge. Since I had left the old seal on to preserve orientation, it was easy to get the new one on right, so that went swell. But pounding the seal in was a horse of a different color. With a loosely coupled ill fitting plastic tool I had all kinds of issues including trying to figure out how to hit the plastic rim without bashing the tube, and having my wife yelling "Ski, we gonna eat or what?" and running out of beer. So I went and ate and used my enormous brain to figure out a solution to the problem of hitting the plastic failing to drive the seal in. After dinner she (the wife) gave me one of those "Oh, go ahead, you're distracted anyway" looks and back to the garage I went. It was about this time that I read the "apply oil to the outside of the seal before installing". Shit. Well, figures me, the inside of the tube was plenty oily, so good enough. While eating dinner I ran through the various options for applying the proper amount of force to in the proper direction to drive the seal in. I tried hitting it with a hammer with the fork wrapped in a towel. No dice. I tried using a nail countersinker thing to localize the force and remove the hammer from the tube. Also no good. The damn plumbing part was too big. Finally, I just used one half at a time, angled the plastic ram out and beat it like the Packers on Jay Cutler, and soon I saw the groove for the snap ring. Groovy, says I, now on my third Inversion IPA. The dust seal, which I now read should also be replaced, was not. Ah now for the easy part, add the oil. Instructions call for filling the outer tube until the oil reaches the threads, which I did. Instructions then say pump the outer tube up and down 10 times, and then the inner piston thingy. Instructions say nothing about said pumping having roughly the same effect on the fork as would similar treatment by a prom date on a 17 year old boy. Yep, oil all over the place. I am grateful to Electra and others who described the cardboard home made oil level thing, it only took me four times to get it right. I over filled twice, but I wanted to get it right. Then I put the tube with the holes (whatever that damned thing is called) back on, compressed the fork with the same straps...and then I realized I had a couple of problems, one of which was I had a fork full of oil that I was unable to set down, and the other was that the piston was now WAY DOWN IN THE TUBE and I had neglected to take that into account. Next time, here's a hint, tie a piece of string to it and thread it out. Me, I had to create a tool with a coat hanger to grab the thing. You know, just like chimpanzees do to extract termites. So once I got that out, threaded everything together and put the fork in the bike, I was feeling pretty good. All I have left to do tomorrow is tighten the fork, re-connect the handlebars, put on the tire, and re-set the suspension settings. If you never hear from me again the test drive was fatal because I forgot something. So, would I do it again? Yeah, as is always the case you learn a lot as you work through it and I could probably cut the time in half. And, as pointed out, now at least I know who the moron who worked on my bike was. If you are even half competent, or cheap, you can probably do this. But don't run out of beer. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 09:08 am: |
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Ski, You are now an official member of the ULY Fork You Club. Sure it took some doing but I know you know it was worth it. Brings you closer to your ULY. I'd wager you could do the next one in way less than 1/2 the time of the first one. And yes, I am at least 1/2 competent and most certainly thrifty ( cheap is such a harsh term ) (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on July 06, 2011) |
Mnrider
| Posted on Wednesday, July 06, 2011 - 12:44 pm: |
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Sounds like the worst thing that happened was you ran out of beer. That can be a show stopper for me! That and the wife yelling out the door"you gonna stay out in the garage all night" |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2011 - 02:34 am: |
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I screwed something up, while attempting to reset the suspension I found that the screw only had about a turn and a half before it bottomed out in either direction. Hints? |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2011 - 07:43 am: |
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Ski, From one Craig to another, good morning. You didn't screw up, you just forgot to set the correct range of motion on the Damper Rod Assembly. Your profile shows you own a 2007 ULY and my son has the 07' also so we have the service manual for that year. Go to page 2-50 and follow the instructions verbatim in the chapter headed by Damper Rod Assembly. Given that you are referring to the screw at the top of the fork that will take care of your problem and is easily accomplished. (Message edited by electraglider_1997 on July 08, 2011) |
Mnrider
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2011 - 01:59 pm: |
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That damper adjustment is in the wrong place in the book. I lightly clamped a vise grip on the rod to hold it up to make it easier to do the damper rod adjustment. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2011 - 04:54 pm: |
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Mnrider, I've got both the 06 and 07 service manuals and it's 2-51 in the 06 manual and 2-50 in the 07 manual but both are the same instructions. |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2011 - 05:17 pm: |
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Eh, well mine's an 08 but now I know what to look at when I get home. So I guess we're talking about removing the cap, and compressing the spring to get hold of the bits...not too bad. Thanks |
Zac4mac
| Posted on Friday, July 08, 2011 - 09:49 pm: |
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A 1/8 NPT pipe union screws a couple of threads onto the damper rod. I put one on a long brass tube to fish the rod out of the soup. The tube is soldered to a football filler tube, so the assembly "breathes" as you pull the damper up.
Z |
Mnrider
| Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2011 - 10:00 am: |
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I just feel that the damper adjustment should be in the fork assembly section after step 19. It says the adjustment is only needed if locknut "10" has been moved,well that nut spins freely so it will move during disassembly and I think that adjustment should be checked every time the fork is taken apart. |
Electraglider_1997
| Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2011 - 11:02 am: |
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I did this adjustment on both sides of the fork since it was so darned straightforward and easily done. Who really knows how it was set up at the factory or manufacturer, but I know I did it to the book. |
Gunut75
| Posted on Saturday, July 09, 2011 - 10:04 pm: |
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angled the plastic ram out and beat it like the Packers on Jay Cutler, O geez......here we go.......... Heres my shirt today........
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Gunut75
| Posted on Monday, July 11, 2011 - 11:08 pm: |
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It got awfully quiet in here............... I'm not a hater. I just enjoy the seasons of craziness. I don't get angry over something I have no control of. I do wear a good shirt when I find it. This one was purchased at Soldier Field. GO BEARS!!!!! Sorry to hijack. |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 07:50 pm: |
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Not at all, I think it got quiet because the subject petered out. No offense taken by me, I've been a Packers fan all my life, my best friend is a Vikings fan. We go at it all the time. It's not your fault you have a quarterback. |
Needs_o2
| Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 09:08 pm: |
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Skifast +10 By the way, that shirt is what the Packer bench looked like last year, and they still took the Lomardi back home!
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Gunut75
| Posted on Tuesday, July 12, 2011 - 10:40 pm: |
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I've been a Packers fan all my life They have support groups for this problem.............. my best friend is a Vikings fan. Not so many support groups for this one. Two of my good friends wear purple. It's disturbing....... Needs_o2: That is absolutely true. The pack played very well last year. I bought the shirt 5-6 years ago at a Bear/Packer game at Soldier Field. Best part is; Never know which way the tide will turn. OK. Were you able to get your forks figured out? I'm keeping an eye on the results of this thread. I'm going to do my forks this winter, and I plan on referring to this one to help. Cheers! |
Skifastbadly
| Posted on Wednesday, July 13, 2011 - 12:13 am: |
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Yeah the only thing that I screwed up (discussed above) is I didn't properly set the free play for the adjustment, but it's riding fine now, no leak, handling seems good so I'm going to leave that for another day. |
Growl
| Posted on Monday, August 01, 2011 - 10:05 am: |
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I replaced a fork seal this week - not too hard but a lot of steps - it took twice as long as it would on conventional forks on an old school bike, such as a Sportster. I used the bike's triple tree as a clamp and a ratchet strap... no special tools... no problems, the leak is fixed. |
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